Technical rear brake shoe replacement...

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Technical rear brake shoe replacement...

illuminate

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Looking at the CD manual it suggests that you need to bleed the hydraulic system inorder to replace the rear brake shoes.

Can anybody who has done this confirm whether this is neccessary or are they just going "by the book"..? ;)

Also how easy is it to improvise with other tools rather than use the specialist tools that are shown in the manual ?

.... cheers in advance for any help
 
As far as tools go, the only "special" tool I can think of that would be handy is for getting the two springs back on.

A screwdriver with a groove in the tip works well.
 
Hi Guys,

tried to do this myself today but failed miserably! managed to get them into place springs on etc but can't get the drum back on at all?

Any help greatly appreciated!
 
The ridge on the edge of the drum. The shoes wear down the middle of the drum, there is a ridge left between the edge of the drum and where the shoes run.

If this isn't removed you will struggle to get the shoes sitting right.

Cheers

SPD

Thanks for that! I'll have another look later - with a bit of luck i'll manage this time!!
 
Also, remember the shoes can move in/out on their adjusters.
If they are too far out, the drum won't fit, even if the ridge is removed.
 
I'm in the middle of this job too. The wheel cylinder had seized solid on one side. Under £4 from eurocar parts, I like buying parts for this car ;).

I had no bother with the springs, a long thin flat blade screwdriver does the job. Hook the spring round the shaft of the screwdriver, then stick the end of the screwdriver in the hole where the spring needs to attach and pursuade the spring to swap positions with the screwdriver head.

Also, remember the shoes can move in/out on their adjusters.
If they are too far out, the drum won't fit, even if the ridge is removed.

Are the adjusters the silver part with a spring? If so, on my new shoes they seemed to be stuck in one position. Do I need to use more brute force to move them?
 
Are the adjusters the silver part with a spring? If so, on my new shoes they seemed to be stuck in one position. Do I need to use more brute force to move them?

They are friction adjusters that go over the pins in the back plate. Brute force is needed.

Make sure the wear ridge is removed and set the adjusters so the drum 'just' goes on.

Cheers

SPD
 
I've been away so only just got to finish this job. Turns out the reason I couldn't get my drums back on was that the handbrake "elbow" had seized solid that meant that it was preventing the two shoes from coming together properly. After I freed up the seized elbow it all went on without any bother. Both sides had stuck wheel cylinders and seized elbows, kind of explains why my handbrake had given up too.

Now my brakes kind of work, just need to work out why my front right binds and squeals when hot, I've just changed the discs and pads, and did the flexi-hose on that side but still no joy. Think I'm going to go for a used caliper off eBay.
 
did you leave off the backing plate on the back of the pad maybe. or use the copper grease on the back the sqealing sound shouldnt have anything to do with the caliper unless its warped.
 
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Just remove the nut, be sure and take it off/replace it in as straight a line as possible, I FUBAR'd one trying to force it on at a (very) slight angle :eek:

Also, I find it easiest to replace the shoes, etc and put the hub back last as you can attach the springs to both shoes, then get them into place before securing them with the pins, much easier than trying to stretch the spring with a slotted screwdriver or similar.
 
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