Technical Rear Axle Replacement ?

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Technical Rear Axle Replacement ?

sorry to resurrect:D but I remember JR saying that a 2018 rear axl would improve the ride quality on a 2011... you know where im going on this!
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am I correct? or remembering wrong....


would it be a straight swap? my axl is ok....but obv she is 10 soon and my car had not been looked after so its just a matter of time.


im in no way oblivious to johns issues and don't think swapping will be a breeze AT ALL but im all too aware that my axl is on borrowed time.....
 
I remember JR saying that a 2018 rear axl would improve the ride quality on a 2011

No, the rear beam change came in the 2010 model year, so your car should already have it.

Look underneath the car from the back; if you can see a round metal bar running through the length of the beam, you already have the modified version.

The earlier version is just a 'U' section steel beam, with no bar in the middle.

And yes, the modified rear beam does noticeably improve the ride on pre-2010 model year cars.

IIRC all 500C's had the modified rear beam from launch.
 
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No, the rear beam change came in the 2010 model year, so your car should already have it.

Look underneath the car from the back; if you can see a round metal bar running through the length of the beam, you already have the modified version.

The earlier version is just a 'U' section steel beam, with no bar in the middle.
Yes mine has the roll bar, so I guess it really wouldn’t make too much of a difference.
It must be just me & the Terrible roads in my area!! I have upgraded my rear shocks from the standard but to be honest .. very little change to the general ride!
 
It must be just me & the Terrible roads in my area!!

No car with twist beam rear suspension is ever going to have the comfort of a limousine.

Even with the later beam, the ride is only just adequate.

But I think Fiat could have done better. The Mk1 Ka, for example, has a significantly smoother and softer ride, despite also having the inherent limitations of twist beam suspension.
 
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Hi All, changed my daughters rear axle about a year back on an 09 plate. While there put new shocks , springs etc. A couple of things to bear in mind , might be already mentioned , but top bolt right hand side by the fuel tank doesn't have enuf room to come out , my solution was to cut a bit from it , measure ur cut and measure again, so you know it will go back with plenty of meat. The brake lines into the stub will more than likely snap when you need to take them of. The bolts going back into he new axle at the bottom of the shocks also needed shortening by a small amount , due to new axle not being exact. But they were my only problems, all in all , the new axle was £125 , the rest of furniture springs shocks etc were as priced as expected , but the brake lines I had to get from fiat , cost £76 , since then there are aftermarket brake lines available at much better pricing. Also measure the gap of the top of the wheel to arch, on the ground and when in the air and match it when setting it up on the new axle.
 
Axle ordered, suspect the four bolts holding the stub axle on to be a big issue the drum mounting flange obscures the bolt ends given its stupid torque I really don't want to remove it if I don't have to? and the brake pipes, not to mention we don't have a drive or garage so its on the large pavement out back( there's still plenty space for people walking by as its about twice as wide as the car thankfully)
Hello, just about to do my rear bar and need some advice! I don't want to undo the hub nut because of the reasons you stated. Can you remove the axel from the car and then undo the whole brake/hub assembly from the axel? Thanks in advance!
 
There are 4 bolts that hold the stub axle onto the axle which even when looking really bad will come out with care, yes remove the whole axle then sort everything.
You'll find the bolts at the front won't come out unless you really bend the flexible it's doable with care when warm.
By far the biggest issue is the brake pipes, ideally replace both pipes( available on Ebay as a set ) plus wheel cylinders.
Cut the brake pipe off where it meets the flexible from the body, hold the end of the flexible in a vice propped up on anything suitable use a proper hex socket, not a standard or drive on the flats type( impact socket) I used a Lidl impact driver and the pipe end came out without too much issue, I think the hammer action helped rather than shear torque?
Ask for any help
 
There are 4 bolts that hold the stub axle onto the axle which even when looking really bad will come out with care, yes remove the whole axle then sort everything.
You'll find the bolts at the front won't come out unless you really bend the flexible it's doable with care when warm.
By far the biggest issue is the brake pipes, ideally replace both pipes( available on Ebay as a set ) plus wheel cylinders.
Cut the brake pipe off where it meets the flexible from the body, hold the end of the flexible in a vice propped up on anything suitable use a proper hex socket, not a standard or drive on the flats type( impact socket) I used a Lidl impact driver and the pipe end came out without too much issue, I think the hammer action helped rather than shear torque?
Ask for any help
Thank you so much for this! Wish me luck!
 
When you talk about using a vice for the flexible hose connection do you mean this part.....
So, assuming the bleed valve is seized you'll need new cylinders, if you can unbolt the cylinder the two small bolts you can just about get to, then if the pipe will unscrew from the cylinder then pull the clip near the front and wiggle the entire pipe away without disconnecting from the flexi, yes it's possible mind yours look in far better nick than mine were.
All else fails it's the union end you hold in a vice where the metal pipe to the rear meets it that goes in the vice
You'll need help to wiggle the long brake pipe free as you need to support the axel as you move it backwards to extract the pipe
 
Many thanks for this! However, this is not my photo, I just got it from the internet to illustrate my question. Starting the job on Tuesday morning so will update if I encounter any problems! Thanks again.
 
So, assuming the bleed valve is seized you'll need new cylinders, if you can unbolt the cylinder the two small bolts you can just about get to, then if the pipe will unscrew from the cylinder then pull the clip near the front and wiggle the entire pipe away without disconnecting from the flexi, yes it's possible mind yours look in far better nick than mine were.
All else fails it's the union end you hold in a vice where the metal pipe to the rear meets it that goes in the vice
You'll need help to wiggle the long brake pipe free as you need to support the axel as you move it backwards to extract the pipe
Many thanks! Ok, so axle is off and it is in not bad condition considering MOT man said it was rough! Anyway, I need to know where to get the pivot bolts for the Axle as I had to cut mine off because they were rusted solid! I have attached pics to help! Many hanks for all your help. Just need to wait for new axle to arrive now!
 

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I need to know where to get the pivot bolts for the Axle as I had to cut mine off because they were rusted solid!
I don't have a source, but you could try phoning shop4parts - not all their stock is listed on the website.

Looks like the spring pan metal is getting thin at the place they usually snap, so the job was worth doing.
 
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