Technical pressing rear bushs...

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Technical pressing rear bushs...

Yes but the penalties are more severe if you pull the wrong one out:)

The sections are bolted together in the right places but it does look like a big puzzle. You can take it 3", 6", 9" or 12" up in to the air and it all fits nicely in the boot. Handy for when you haven't got power to drive onto a car ramp or you need to get under the front and the back of the car at the same time

Steel car ramps are expensive, heavy, a job to drive onto and still unsteady whereas these are light and can be used anywhere
 
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I think the process means 74.6 cm (if 74.6 is correct) between the floor and top centre of the wheel arch. Tightening the bushes with 74.6 cm between the center of the wheel and wheel arch would make the situation even worse. I doubt you could even get the center of the wheel to hang that low with the axle attached to the car.

ooo yes this is a very very good point and well made ;)
could i measure the diameter of the wheel and halve it then take that off 74.6 to give me the required hight between the center of the wheel and the top of the wheel arch??

or could someone do me a big favor and measure the distance between the center of the wheel and top of the wheel arch with the car at the correct hight of 74.6 cm. i have the 17inch blades on my car if that would make a difference.

dont think i have enough time; or willingness to build myself some of those bad boy car stands. i will make some up for myself soon though.
 
I think you're making things over complicated for yourself.

We don't know for sure what the 74.6 cm relates to or even if the figure is correct. So, forget about that.

You need to tighten the bolts throught the bushes with the car on the ground as normal. If you don't have axle stands (or big Jenga blocks) you'll need to crawl under the car somehow to do it.

It doesn't matter what size wheel you have.

Can't believe you've taken the axle out and don't have axle stands.
 
I think you're making things over complicated for yourself.

We don't know for sure what the 74.6 cm relates to or even if the figure is correct. So, forget about that.

You need to tighten the bolts throught the bushes with the car on the ground as normal. If you don't have axle stands (or big Jenga blocks) you'll need to crawl under the car somehow to do it.

It doesn't matter what size wheel you have.

Can't believe you've taken the axle out and don't have axle stands.

yeah its sitting on axle stands atm, how could i use those to get the correct angle for the axle?? sorry for all the annoying little questions....i used up all my brain power on my press tool!!!

just waiting for my replacement bush to come in for the new one i buggered up putting in at the weekend.
 
ahhh i see, i was thinking thats how it would have to be done. how much would it matter that i have half a tank of fuel??

I don't think it will matter atall. You want the car on the ground as it would normaly be in every day use, so that would be with some fuel.

When you refit the axle to the car, tighten everything except the 2 bolts that go through the axle bushes, and the 2 lower shock absorber mounting bolts if it's a saloon or all 4 shock absorber mounting bolts if it's a MW.

Lower the rear wheels onto "Jenga" blocks, or the rear brake disc flanges onto axle stands then tighten all the remaining bolts.
 
I think you are getting far too technical as I said in the above post people love making mountains out of molehills.

It's not a matter of "making mountains out of molehills", just a discussion on whether to tighten the suspension components the way Fiat specify or, what seems to be a more logical way. I suspect the OP has already decided on the latter.
 
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