General Poor mans Stratos...

Currently reading:
General Poor mans Stratos...

Hi Purf

Thanks for the pictures, they look mint! Leaning more towards that burnt orange colour actually, or maybe the green!

I did the wheels in Ford Solar Gold, mainly because it's the only one I saw in Halfords at the time...

The cylinder head will have to go to a machine shop near me in Sheffield, hopefully the side draught webers and larger intakes should make a difference! That said, the car hasn't had an MOT since October 2014, so I have no idea how quickly it goes!
 
Hi JJ

Any progress. Have you had an X1/9 before?

They are not too slow with the original euro carb in my opinion. Depends what you are used to... original brakes are good once they are warmed up! and you need to be used to having no servo.

I have always found mine handles very well but its harder to find the limits when compared to a fwd car. Perhaps then fit the twin webbers once its all nicely sorted with new suspension etc... There a guy near me with twin webbers fitted who I think is a member of the owners club.

best of luck over the dark months with the resto
 
Hi Purf
Well seeing as I haven't even finished A levels yet, sadly I haven't had the opportunity to own any car, let alone an X1/9...

Hasn't been much of interest going on, just endlessly sanding the bodywork (mm thick for most of it but up to about half an inch on the nose) which to be honest isn't exciting enough to post about.

But other things have been going on! Getting the head back tomorrow with the punto valves so I'll see how they look. Also planning on installing a pair of driving lights to compliment the pop up ones but not sure where they'll go yet.

The biggest change though will be the switch from the American style bumpers to a bumperless version (unless this is a terrible idea?) So I'm having to work out plugging holes and the front end, which looks to be the worst.

James
 

Attachments

  • DSC_1367.JPG
    DSC_1367.JPG
    2.8 MB · Views: 48
  • DSC_1365.JPG
    DSC_1365.JPG
    3 MB · Views: 49
  • DSC_1360.JPG
    DSC_1360.JPG
    2.4 MB · Views: 50
Cool, nice to see some more progress. Your prob the youngest X1/9 owner! I thought that was me... I found A levels bloody hard, dont care what the stupid Eaton boys say about modern exams being easy - wth do they know!

An X1/9 is one awesome first car. I had a cinq sporting for my first proper car hence the fiats, but I was helping re-build old land rovers long before I could drive... With the original carb the X will easily be fast enough for your first car - and then some! Its hard to find the limits of the handling on the road, even with 30 yr old suspension! It should push 120mph if its in good fettle! private test track runway of course...

Are the punto valves larger? the earlier punto sporting had a very similar engine in 1600 form with fuel injection. I guess you had the broken studs fixed and a valve job? I think the 1500 camshaft was the best of all the factory Lampredi engines.

Interesting - going bumper less. I have done loads of research about it and I'm almost done with mine...I just need to fit fiberglass 1300 bumpers. I found a bit of a lack of info for doing it 'on a budget'

There are two approaches:

1. Fill all the bolt holes, block the bumper tubes and cut off the 'fangs', lots of body work and kind of impossible to refit the original bumpers and return back to original. Remanufactured 1300 front valence £185? 1300 plastic grille £100+. Original 1300 bumpers are quite saught after so expect £200-250 unless your lucky. Fiberglass are cheap but require custom brackets. You prob know all this already sorry!

2. Remove the bumpers leaving the gaskets in place around the bumper holes. use rubber grommets in the bolt holes and leave the fangs in place. Paint the fangs matt black and fit a (custom) flexible wire mesh grill with tiny cable ties. Buy a fibreglass 1300 front valence from Cascu, cut it down and fit in place of a metal front valence (Sikaflex :) . This way you can return the car to original if you or a future owner prefers. With values rising this is worth keeping in mind.

I have even fitted home made over riders with no bumpers for the moment - they are land rover bump stops bolted onto the original X bumper brackets. Protects the nose a bit from people who cant park...

Having used mine with no bumpers I can say if someone hits or touches the nose it will get damaged :( although its quite strong

You can get fiberglass 1300 bumpers which need brackets making, there is a seller on ebay at the moment doing the bumpers and brackets for 200 which seems good value and the kit includes fake Carello driving lights to cover the fangs and toe eyes which is a clever idea IMO

Make sure you apply lots of rust treatment while your at it. I've used Dinitrol which is amazing and easy to spray into voids in the bodywork.

One other bit of advice from my experience, its a good upgrade to replace the radiator with a scirocco/golf item as they cost 25 quid and by now most of the original rads are probably inefficient and cause overheating. Mine used to allow the temp to rise at motorway speeds. Although it wasn't really overheating it was hot and caused the classic fuel vaporization issues X1/9s suffer from.

You can fit the radiator without cutting any metal (unlike most examples I've seen online). I posted about it on the X1/9 OC forum. Also make sure the vibration bolts & springs are fitted to the exhaust otherwise you'll be constantly resealing the down pipe.

This is what the front of mine looked like 6 months ago, its got proper 1300 sidelights now which were £50 with old slightly cracked lenses. You can buy the lenses new £... Note the temporary lights. couple of people have said it looks a bit mad max. I'm sure the front valence could be fitted better. The number plate is fitted through the original trim holes. The square holes under the lights I'm not really bothered by but you can make up a cover plate to fit here.

20150317_133359_zps5495eea4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks again Purf, some great stuff there!

The punto valves are about 39mm if I remember rightly, they look a lot bigger than the old ones but there's a small gap between the valves still. Eurosport (I think) had a set of 8 valves that were 40mm intake and about 33 mm exhaust, I doubt they'd fit but they were fairly cheap.

The rad is completely rotten anyway, so it's gonna have to go! I was looking at a generic kit car one on eBay for about 70 quid but the VW one sounds a much better idea, I'll see if I can find what you wrote.

Ive started trying to refit the indicators below the headlamps, there was a very conveniently sized panel there that I've cut a huge whole in. Any ideas how to fill the gaps around the edge of the indicator where I've overshot slightly?

In the meantime it's back to sanding paint. Is something like Nitromors or some other chemical stripper a valid way to do this a little quicker?

(Love the car by the way! Totally Mad Max!)

James
 

Attachments

  • DSC_1370.JPG
    DSC_1370.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 50
  • DSC_1369.JPG
    DSC_1369.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 51
  • DSC_1368.JPG
    DSC_1368.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 46
Hi James - where abouts are you based? They must be valves from a Punto GT or something? Bigger than stock X1/9 Nice

Oh no too late... It doesn't look too huge of a hole. How are you going to mount the 1500 lights in the hole? I dont like cutting anything on mine (even though its got a touch of rusting in places)

Those holes are a legacy from the earlier 1300 lights. seen here:
http://www.x19partsholland.nl/CATALOGUS/tabid/2470/ProdID/4449/CatID/766/language/en-US/Default.aspx
the lenses are £30 approx from Holland if you can find some second hand ones. I eventually got some for £50 second hand from Sledgehammer on here. Hence the Punto & Cinq side repeaters.

Yeah Nitromours is ok, get a cheaper brand and use liberally. I personally would only remove all the paint back to bare metal if there is rust in the area. The original paint is hard and should be ok if its not rusty underneath. How are you going to paint it? I'm all for DIY painting but its not as hard wearing as professional 2K paint. That nose cone will get a lot of stone chips if the paint is soft.

I would weld the hole up where you overshot if you have a welder?

Scirocco/Golf Radiator link: http://www.x1-9ownersclub.org.uk/forum/virtual-garage/29679-blocked-radiator-hg-fail.html?start=15
The one i bought was: NRF 509501 Radiator for VOLKSWAGEN SCIROCCO (1974-1992) costing £23!!!
a Seicento radiator bleed pipe and a length of reinforced radiator hose. A couple of fence panel brackets, some female M8 adapters and some rubber matting. There's a shopping list..
Jeremy
 
Last edited:
Hi Jeremy

I'm based up in Sheffield, not really the hub of any X1/9 club.

Don't worry! The hole making was thought through. I'm going to unscrew the bracket from the bumper that used to mount the light, weld in a bar beneath the headlamp (plenty of room) and then bolt the bracket to that, indicator to the bracket. I'm sure there's method in my madness somewhere.

I've already cut much larger holes in the Fiat so far, the rear wheel arch innards are just rust and you can poke a screwdriver straight through them. Fortunately I've been lent a welder and I've got about 2 SqM of mild steel sheet to patch everything up with, working a treat so far.

Not sure whether the valves are GT or not (presumably so) but they're almost identical to the old ones in every way so getting new seats put in wasn't that bad.

The paint is just horrible! The primer is really soft and the rest of it is just really thick and gooey almost in places. I'm wanting to do this job very thoroughly so I'm going back to bare metal mostly.

In terms of paint, where do you buy it and what paint do you need? I've seen non-isocyanide 2K paints around so whether they might be worth a shot?

Thanks for the rad info, I'm going to look into that. Also going to need some crafty way to redo the cooling system as it was all a bit of a mess when it came so I never bothered labelling anything. Most pipes were dry and led nowhere and the engine overheated sitting still. Still, could be worse I'm sure..

James
 
You are right. The main thing is you are saving the car!

I have bought paint from Rainbow-Paints.co.uk as they are local to me but they would probably post to you. I have found them very helpful if you are a DIY painter.

2K is worth the extra cost as its nice and hard. I have used 1K polyurethane which is cheaper but it is softer and suffers badly from stone chips. The main thing is the time your investing so the paint is worth shelling out a for, 2K is more toxic as you will know so if there is a type which is less toxic then its got to be worth it if you are doing it in the garage. A good face mask is important too. You have to mix up 2k so you need measuring cups for it.

2L should be more than enough for an X1/9. I think if your going down to bare steel the primer is also very important so get some advice. It sounds like its worth taking all the old paint off as you don't want any reactions with your nice new paint! You could always do all the prep and get a pro to spray it. Best of both worlds then.

Coolant pipes are not too bad. If your doing the scirocco rad you will need some new pipe for the front as it has both inlet and outlet on one side, unlike the original rad. Let me know if you want any more info on the radiator.

There is a set of silicone cooling pipes on ebay for about £60 but not really a necessity. Some people use stainless bolts to fit the thermostat as the thermostats are getting harder and more costly to buy in good condition. I have seen them for £100 including new stainless bolts. They are a special design for the X1/9 called a shunt thermostat. I think this was to upgrade the cooling system due to the rear engine design.

Its important to get the head skimmed if its been overheating - I'm sure you have if you've had other work done on it.

Keep it up! I need to do some work on mine... My battery charge light is on and the speedo cable has come off behind the dash.
 
Last edited:
More great info as ever Jeremy!

As much info as you have on the rad would be great, never done mods to a car to this extent so any help is much appreciated!

Looking at the non-cyo paints, they only come in solid colours, and sadly I'm quite keen on a metallic green or orange (leaning green now, strange how things change...) So I guess I will either have to go to another type (whatever they may be...) or face the joys of isocyanides... I'm no chemist but it sounds pretty horrific

In the mean time, I've been cleaning up the gearbox and painting it as well as thinking these indicators through a bit more. How plausible does it sound to screw the lens of the indicator through the sheet metal into the indicator housing to hold it all together?

Final thing I've been wondering, is a gated gearbox a plausible idea? I've seen a few and they just look the part! Use some steel plate to fashion the gates, chrome plate it and screw it over the gear lever in place of the rubber shroud. Is that possible or is there more to it?

James
 

Attachments

  • 1499156.jpg
    1499156.jpg
    54.5 KB · Views: 37
  • DSC_1377.JPG
    DSC_1377.JPG
    2.3 MB · Views: 35
  • DSC_1379.JPG
    DSC_1379.JPG
    2.7 MB · Views: 36
YNice gearbox! How was the third gear syncro? (common weakness) Maybe liquid knight could advise. As you have the box out it might be worth changing it. They are not too expensive from eurosport. Also the clutch and release beating?

I would go solid colour. I think metallic is more difficult and perhaps the solid suits the age of the car better? Do the paints in question need a lacquer?

I always wanted a Kawasaki green x1/9...

Lights, Worth a try screwing through the wing but doesnt the lens seal with the housing to keep the water out? Easiest thing imo is to get some 1300 lights.

Gated shifter Would be cool. I'm sure I have seen someone on xweb in the US with one?
 
Last edited:
Hi all, hope you had a good Christmas and New Year!

Not much to report on sadly, bodywork still driving me insane and the indicator issue is still prevailant...

So, still sanding the bodywork, going to respray the engine cover and targa top whilst I'm at it as they're different shades of black...

Welded new rims (or whatever they're called) to the driver rear wheel arch and I've filled in all the dents and stuff.

New plan on the bumpers due to the indicators: I'm going to keep the aluminium parts, get rid of the black plastic bits around the edges and try to redrill the huge bumper mounts so I can move the bumpers closer to the car.

Having had a the big intake mod done on the cylinder head and the dual DCOEs planned, I reckon it'll be an interesting mix of rust and too much power in the end. Anyone know where to get hold of a manifold for it? I've found a couple in the states but was wondering if there's anything this side of the pond?

James
 
Happy New Year!

Good call on tucking the bumpers back a bit.

If you keep the bumper then the indicator issue is solved.
 
Good to see the old girl is in safe hands. Is that the spare head you're working on? You can fit unleaded valves from a Punto 90 and you'll need to re-wrap the exhaust so stop the Weber boiling fuel in the carb'.
 
There was only one head with the car, the one with putty around the thermostat fitting? New seats are unleaded so shouldn't be an issue there hopefully.

Manifold looks well wrapped as is, I've tightened the stainless wraps though so nothing should slip off. I may fabricate a steel plate or something to go between the carbs and manifold and insulate that to really reduce any transfer.

Have been sanding more paint (not particularly interesting) and have painted one side of the engine cover, will hold off pics until ifs finished!

Another side job, anyone have a clue how to remove the windscreen? Rubbers are really perished and I'd like to get a really good spray job done so I'm removing everything. Have been cutting around the screen but it's hideously slow and not very effective.

From here until summer, looks like I'll be sanding and painting... (!)
 
I think string can be used to remove the windscreen rubber. There will be YouTube videos to study I should think. It's worth the effort to remove the screen as you say.

Good luck with the paint prep! Pics are always interesting ?
 
I'll have to read up on removing the windscreen then, doesn't look an easy job.

Paint is all dry so I just need to work out how to take decent photos on my phone (easier said than done.)

Looking at the original eBay ad for this car that Liquidknight bought it from, apparently there was "No major areas of rust" on the car... Which explains the 20 sq ft of sheet steel I've had to buy in order to replace the lack of rust!
 
Well, only two panels done, far too cold to paint now so the rest will wait!

BMW Sapphire Black (Metallic) for the outsides, aluminium high temp for the inside engine cover.

Purf, you mentioned about the scirocco radiator thing, did you say there was something on the owner's club about it?
 

Attachments

  • DSC_1412.JPG
    DSC_1412.JPG
    2.8 MB · Views: 25
  • DSC_1413.JPG
    DSC_1413.JPG
    2.5 MB · Views: 28
  • DSC_1414.JPG
    DSC_1414.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 36
  • DSC_1416.JPG
    DSC_1416.JPG
    2.6 MB · Views: 29
  • DSC_1417.JPG
    DSC_1417.JPG
    2.6 MB · Views: 28
  • DSC_1418.JPG
    DSC_1418.JPG
    2.7 MB · Views: 28
Last edited:
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Back
Top