Panda REAR Suspension replacement

With the Panda in 1st gear,
and chocks around the FRONT wheels.

I use a trolley jack on the centre of the rear suspension beam to raise the complete REAR of the Panda,
then I used 2 x axlestands - with wooden load spreaders on the 2 x rear sill / floor junctions (these have a large circular rubber bung)

with the car well supported on the 2 x stands( I used further trestles under the sills - in case of unexpected movement / failure)

[BREAK=component removal]
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I undid the 2 x lower shock / damper bolts -18mm HEX head
20161014_160832.jpg


then lowered the rear suspension beam with the trolley jack

once lowered you can lift the springs from the lower cups
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20161014_163144.jpg

[BREAK=Inspection of spring cups / pans]

I used a brush to move any loose paint / mud,

then a rotary wire brush in a drill to scour away the remaining loose paint / and surface rust ( mine were actually pretty good for @13 years old.)

MESSY JOB..!! ,
wear suitable protective equipment.



20161014_160832.jpg


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I used a THICK - rust preventing paint, to line the pans / cups - taking CARE to ensure the small drain holes in the bottom edge , and centre , of pans were still clear. 20161014_171946.jpg
[BREAK=Damper replacement]

with the rear beam and wheels at a LOW position , access to the Dampers upper retaining bolts - 15MM HEX is now reasonable.(y)

I found withdrawing the damper downwards and out was the simplest, , I gave the mounting points a quick wipe over with a cloth to make sure there was nothing wrong , or in the way for reassembly,

I then fed the new damper UP into position, and refitted the TOP bolt,

20161014_173549.jpg

I then fitted the 2 x rear springs into the cups,
and used the trolley jack to raise the rear beam back up to the level for the dampers lower eyes to be back in line - then refit the bolts

once all of the rear suspension components are back in place ,
I used the trolley jack to fully RAISE the rear of the car,

roving my additional safety supports,
then the axle stands

once the underside area was clear - I then carefully lowered the Panda back to the ground ,

and finally torqued-up the 4 x mounting bolts.
 

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OP
OP
V
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Glad this guide is still proving useful.

The car was sold at 15 years old..still good :)

There are plenty of threads in the panda (and 500) sections
Discussing products to neutralise the rust..and coat in a longlasting finish


As proven with mine..

KEEP IT MUD FREE
and the drain holes clear

Charlie
 

rmjbn1

hello
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Oct 25, 2018
Messages
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West Clare
Thanks again for this guide Charlie, it was a great help:)

I'm amazed how easy it is to get good access to clean the axle, springs and shocks. Two bolts, the axle drops down and the springs fall out! Winner!

Strangely, the lower shocker bolts on my 2004 1.2 are 19mm hex head, not 18mm

I found a breaker bar to get them started then a drill with a socket attachment to run the bolts out and back in made it a very quick job - they are quite long threads.
 
OP
OP
V
Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Messages
29,590
Location
Near the M4
Thanks again for this guide Charlie, it was a great help:)


Strangely, the lower shocker bolts on my 2004 1.2 are 19mm hex head, not 18mm.


You are very welcome :)

It was a quick job one autumnal evening.. but Im now in the habit of taking pics when I do a job..
So I can build a thread later :)

Might be happening again sometime soon.. ;)

Different Head size generally means different thread pitch.. weird
 

chris3234

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Oct 22, 2017
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West Yorkshire
You are very welcome :)

It was a quick job one autumnal evening.. but Im now in the habit of taking pics when I do a job..
So I can build a thread later :)

Might be happening again sometime soon.. ;)

Different Head size generally means different thread pitch.. weird

The bolts on my 500 axle were 19 mm head
I know because I used one of my alloy wheel socket's to remove/reinsert them
 

Yolanda

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Jun 22, 2021
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Stockport
I'm led to believe your not supposed to Jack the rear of the car up on the axle beam as it will bend it resulting in tracking issues.
 
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