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Panda Panda daily...

Introduction

Hi all from Lovely South Africa.

Got myself a decent 09 100hp with 144k km on the clock. Coming from a 2016 vw up! Its a bit of a difference but i love it.

It has its problems which ill be addressing as time and importance allows...

So this is it, Grey or silver grey or carbon steal grey... not exactly sure of the colour name tbh

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Cosmetically it could use a detail. To neaten up the paint. Full wheel refurb as all four are mildly buckled which you feel at 120+kph. Maybe a colour change maybe keep them silver.
Polish the headlights and in the future do a projector retrofit with a joey mod, making the front a tad more aggressive.

Interior wise it needs a good clean. And the driver seat could do with a pad refurbishment. There is a loose metal rod in the backrest which has claimed a bit of blood already. The windows rattle when they are completely dropped which is annoying. At least the aircon works.

Mechanically the breaks could do with a cleanup. Calipers are corroded as well as discs so when its time to have them looked at ill replace the discs all round. Camber was out when wheel alignment was done but Ive read they have that issue from factory. Would a camber kit change that?

I am having a random issue where the temperature gauge takes really long to register the actual temp and once it does It’ll drop again when at highway speeds. What could be the problem? I suspect temp taking long to reach normal is whats affecting the fuel consumption. I had done a 30km trip to work and id used 1/4tank [emoji58] i was not impressed. I mean i was prepared for consumption to be higher than the Up!’s but wow that was a shock.

The goal for the car is to get it running 100s and explore the sport mode more... which im not even sure is working properly [emoji28]
Problem with the temperature sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.

Search on here as I'm sure there's plenty of previous threads on the subject.
 
Problem with the temperature sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.



Search on here as I'm sure there's plenty of previous threads on the subject.



Ye thats what I’ve gathered from threads already... the plan is to do a change and fluid flush. Ive already changed the expansion bottle as the car came with a slightly leaky one. Im thinking i need to change some pipes and clips too as I saw some inventive usage of cable-ties. Does the coolant temp sensor need to be changed also? Where is that situated?
 
I think it's fitted in the thermostat.....so maybe a good idea to fit a new one while you're changing it.

I think there's more than one type, so check out the plug of the original to make sure the new one is the same.
 
I think it's fitted in the thermostat.....so maybe a good idea to fit a new one while you're changing it.



I think there's more than one type, so check out the plug of the original to make sure the new one is the same.



Ok perfect! Ill have a look and see exactly or when i have it out ill take a pic to show to the parts guy. Now my next question is how much coolant is needed. Not too sure how big the system is for a 50:50 mix. Being in SA it can get hot and I’m never in an area where it can get below freezing... Is there a specific spec these cars need?
 
If the crank really is damaged you would be better replacing the engine.

You need to get fully "clued up". Some engines (e.g. Fiat/Alfa 1.8 and 2.0) can crease a crank bearing shell leading to early failure on the rebuilt engine. I don't know if the 1.4 is as sensitive. The crank would be fine it just needs the shells checking.


The 1.4 is a single cam with valve rockers it's likely they are built to bent on impact (they do that on the 1.3 diesel). You need to remove the rocker cover and at least look at the state of the top end. Bent rockers should be obvious. Non moving valves can be checked with a suitable lever to press them open.


I have done a Fiat 1.8 (cost a fortune in valves) but that's a twin cam so there's nothing to bend except the affected valves. I have not done valves on a 1.4.
 
If the crank really is damaged you would be better replacing the engine.

You need to get fully "clued up". Some engines (e.g. Fiat/Alfa 1.8 and 2.0) can crease a crank bearing shell leading to early failure on the rebuilt engine. I don't know if the 1.4 is as sensitive. The crank would be fine it just needs the shells checking.


The 1.4 is a single cam with valve rockers it's likely they are built to bent on impact (they do that on the 1.3 diesel). You need to remove the rocker cover and at least look at the state of the top end. Bent rockers should be obvious. Non moving valves can be checked with a suitable lever to press them open.


I have done a Fiat 1.8 (cost a fortune in valves) but that's a twin cam so there's nothing to bend except the affected valves. I have not done valves on a 1.4.



Ya I was actually calling around to try find out cost of replacement engines. Still haven’t received the quote yet but if its cheaper than a replacement engine obvs will recon, but if other way around then new engine it is. Im gonna go to the garage where it is to have a look and see what they’re saying is true or not.
 
100hp timing woes
https://www.fiatforum.com/showthread.php?t=480882

Its been a while since I’ve updated this thread so heres a link to the other thread I started to troubleshoot the rebuild issues.

I now have another problem that’s developed... the steel coolant pipe has given in. Going to order a new one and replace. Ive seen some threads here on the procedure but is it as simple as pop it out and replace?

Whats keeping the pipe seated under the pressure?
The seal and the one mounting bolt?
 
how much did you pay for it? was a good deal?



Missed this. I over paid a bit, R65k randelas. The current book value is only R45k so ive lost a fair amount already considering 2weeks in to ownership the valves and pistons made babies.

Theres a bunch of maintenance to be done to the car still so more money... but oh well still a fun little car even with the niggles it has.

Will have to make a list of things to do maintenance wise and a wishlist of upgrades to do and see where those overlap to improve the car.
 
The coolant pipe has an O-ring seal and one bolt to hold it in place. Red grease will help the seal to seat. Personally, I would paint it. Yes, I know, the old one lasted best part of 15 years but you can't beat some new paint. :rolleyes:
 
I'm moving the door mirror switch to the door card. The 100HP wires are no help, but the 500 has the switch on the door and a door wiring loom to suit. Details to be posted when it's done.
 
I'm moving the door mirror switch to the door card. The 100HP wires are no help, but the 500 has the switch on the door and a door wiring loom to suit. Details to be posted when it's done.



This sounds interesting will look forward the thread...

My cig lighter doesn’t work so no phone charger right now so while I’m in there might as well attempt this...
 
This sounds interesting will look forward the thread...

My cig lighter doesn’t work so no phone charger right now so while I’m in there might as well attempt this...

I've made a mounting plate for voltmeter with two USB ports that replaces the ciggy lighter. Also added a triple switch set. Day lights, spots and decent reversing light.

The mirror was initially a to extend the switch wires but it was hopelessly fiddly and error prone so gave up on that. The 500 door wiring is far more intelligent. ;)
 
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More panda woes... when i reassembled the car after the new head was fitted, I didn’t replace the lower cambelt cover because I put the aux pulley in place first. I went to install the cover today and it wont fit in place... IMG_6045.JPGIMG_6046.JPGIMG_6047.JPGIMG_6048.JPG I don’t know if its how im doing it but it just wont slide up and in place...


I also fitted a new steel coolant pipe but the factory supplied unit was slightly different to the original. Found this out after an hour or two
Wondering why the bolt didn’t go back in place... IMG_6041.JPG it seems to be a revision as the bracket stamp is the same but the seal end is slightly shorter than the original.... well apart from the fiddly bolt the install was straightforward enough... no leaks after the bleed which is good[emoji23]
 
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