Technical Panda 100hp low end torque poor after belt replacement

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Technical Panda 100hp low end torque poor after belt replacement

Is there an easy way to get the covers off the belt without taking off the engine mount etc?
It's best if you haven't done this job before to take the car to a garage, preferably recommended by someone you know,
I mentioned how to check valve timing, so you will know what to expect when you take it to a garage.
Any mechanic should be able to check valve timing as it is one of the first things they learn, if they did any training.
some engines have timing marks, some need alignment pins/tools,
dodgy mechanic may just quess that it's on the correct alignment,
good mechanics will use drill bits as pins, use the correct tool or make their own.
Then there are the plug the car in and shrug their shoulders type... not a mechanic.
 
any decent mechanic will turn the crankshaft pulley until the marks line up with the crankshaft, and then visually check the camshaft marks are lining up too, which is how valve timing is checked

Not on this engine it isn't. There are no timing marks, and the camshaft sprocket isn't keyed; you need camshaft locking tools, and you need to follow the correct procedure. Just doing what you'd do on an engine with keyed sprockets and timing marks won't work, which is why the forum is littered with posts from folks reporting rough running after a belt change.
 
Unlike many twin cam engines. the FIRE 1.4 has just one cam wheel. The cam wheel is not keyed because tensioning the belt alters the timing.

The cam is locked with a special tool. Another tool correctly sets the crank with all four pistons at 1/2 stroke. You "could" just lock the engine with all pistons at mid stroke but I cannot find whether #1 should be rising or falling. The tool removes the guesswork.

The tensioner is set with a special pin wrench like a mini peg spanner as used on angle grinders. As said cam wheel is not locked to the shaft until the belt its tensioned. A third tool is used to hold the cam wheel while 80 ft-lbs is applied to the retaining bolt. Simply cranking it up will damage the camshaft.

Greg covers it here on the Multi-Air, but the cam belt is the same as 100HP.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlQnVAV5nEw&t=88s
Start at 30mins to see his cam belt procedure and his explanation of the Multi-Air system.
 
Unlike many twin cam engines. the FIRE 1.4 has just one cam wheel. The cam wheel is not keyed because tensioning the belt alters the timing.

The cam is locked with a special tool. Another tool correctly sets the crank with all four pistons at 1/2 stroke. You "could" just lock the engine with all pistons at mid stroke but I cannot find whether #1 should be rising or falling.

Start at 30mins to see his explanation of the Multi-Air system.

Multi.air ?
 
Doesn't anyone know the engine code for the 100HP? The manual says "169A3000", but I'm not sure that's the full story.
 
Hi,
Did you get this fixed?
If yes What was the fix?
 
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