Save up to 15% with Adrian Flux insurance!

Technical Overheating problem

Currently reading:
Technical Overheating problem

Do you think this caused the overheating, or as a result of the overheating?
 
theres no actual gasket, just the sillicone sealant. that's how you're meant to do it. Not 100% sure on the fiat price, but you're talking £15-£20 i think.

Also, yeah - this would be the cause of the overheating at a guess.
 
Should i change the water pump with the timing belt in place?
 
I mean i don't have to take the belt off do i? I was planning on taking the old pump out and squeezing the new one in.
 
I have just come across this thread and hope it's still open.

My fan has just decided not to work and the overheat lamp is on!

Mines a Punto Mk1 1242.

I have found the bleed on the rad as mentioned, but not on the pipe as it enters the bulkhead!

Any theories as to where it might be? The stat doesn't appear to be opening either, as the hose from it to the rad remains cool and the lower hose from the rad to wherever, gets hot!

All this after my rad developed a leak an i used Radweld to try and stop it!

A connection maybe?

Is it just the 2 bolts that hold the stat housing to the head?

Thanks.
 
Well, new rad, new fan switch,new temp light switch and new thermostat.

Trial running on plain water, don't want to waste antifreeze if it leaks!

It doesn't leak! but, fan still not coming on! As the stat is now working, i can only assume, that the gale boring down the drive, is providing enough cooling and that the water isn't getting hot enough to trip the switch.

So, i let it run for about 45 minutes. No leaks, no fan, but no leaks. So I switch off and go in for a cuppa.

Came out about half an hour later, an there's water on the deck! It's come out of the filler, and the level in the rad has settled in between the hi and lo marks!!


WHY?:cry:
 
ChaosTheory said:
Came out about half an hour later, an there's water on the deck! It's come out of the filler, and the level in the rad has settled in between the hi and lo marks!!


WHY?:cry:
Click to expand...

Heat soak. The temperature actually rises when you switch the engine off.

New fan (or fan motor), top up coolant, bleed system.
 
That'll explain the expansion of the water. However, i'm not sure that it's the fan itself that not running, but the switch not.......switching!!

I took the connector out of the fan and put a meter across it after it had been running for 45 minutes, there was no voltage reading. Yet at the connector at the top of the rad, 12 volts plus, so the system has poweras far as the fan switch, and from there, nothing.

There also appeared to be little or no pressure in the system whilst it was running! As we know that the water reaches a higher temperature when the system is sealed, could this be why the fan isn't being switched on, and if the rad cap is stuck in an open position, preventing pressurisation, could this also explain the inability to contain the water during heat soak?

All help greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Ok, not up on electrics, so the resistance check and the paperclip thing are alein to me!
Anyway, the fan does run when you apply power to it using a different source.
Can't see how the "switched earth" thing works either. Consider the facts that the fan sitch is mounted in the plastic body of the rad and that the fan itself is mounted in a plastic frame attatched to the rad. There is no common earth link between them, only the cables supplying the fan via the switch.
It must simply be a thermal switch which is normally open during cool running and closes when hot, making the circuit and starting the fan!
As i said earlier, from the connector at the top of the rad, there is 12v. From that connector, 1 wire runs direct to the fan, the other to the fan switch and from there to the fan. So again, there can be no earth to swith surely? I gratefully receive any information and help that can be given.

As a foot note, the cap does appear to be working as it should. Maybe yesterdays overspill after the heat soak, flush out any remaing Radweld, but i have ordered another, just in case.

Sorry to be so long winded in my replies, but i just need to understand and to get my info across!

Thanks for your help thus far!
 
Ther is an earth, there has to be to complete the circuit.

Earth switching refers to the fact that instead of the live being switched, there is a permanent live supply, it is the earth that has the switch in it.

So short the switch connector and report back

Cheers

D
 
I can report that the cooling system in my Punto is working fine.

Fan works, temperature is controlled, Thanks for all your help.

Now next problem!!

Sump.:confused:
 
Hi, New to the forum. This is actually my first post. I have had this similar overheating issue with my MK1 '97 Punto. I was driving in traffic and the bonnet started steaming last Thursday, I managed to get hold of a friend who used to be a mechanic - he told me to let it cool down then drive around on free roads. I did this and managed to drive from Oxford to Birmingham fine. When i got to Birmingham (home) he then instructed me to check coolant levels and to see if the fan was working (it didn't) he also tried to explain about unpluging the connector and manually stimulating it. I tried this but i think I failed, i suppose my question is...where is this plug located on a MK1?

I've just been to the garage and i can confirm it is an electrical problem. I could get them to do it but i fancy having a go myself ..besides, it saves 35 quid an hour! lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
  • Question
Technical Seicento 1.1 Spi starting problem
Replies
0
Views
61
Maxbreaksfiats
M
DRSIK
Technical Finally up grading from 1.1 to 1.2 bottom end - I have a problem
Replies
2
Views
68
DRSIK
DRSIK
B
  • Question
Technical Seicento Sporting overheating
Replies
5
Views
976
varesecrazy
V
Prenga
Technical Fuel pump - fuel pressure problems
Replies
2
Views
249
dac69er
D
TeoP86
Technical Seicento SPI cold start problem
Replies
7
Views
796
dac69er
D
Back
Top