Technical No ignition following engine change

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Technical No ignition following engine change

professor 1

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Hi all
Recently changed the engine in my daughter's 01 Punto 1.2 with one from an 03 plate. Having electrical probs, no power reaching coil packs or injectors hence engine will not start. I'm sure everything connected up properly-no loose plugs/connectors.
Any suggestions anyone?
 
you need to make sure crank sensor wired up and gap correct
maybe you damaged it fitting it?
if you fitted a later engine from a big headlight model then inlet manifold is slightly different for map sensor and ive read might cause issues
 
Hi all
Recently changed the engine in my daughter's 01 Punto 1.2 with one from an 03 plate. Having electrical probs, no power reaching coil packs or injectors hence engine will not start. I'm sure everything connected up properly-no loose plugs/connectors.
Any suggestions anyone?
Sorry, should have said, yes car is an 8v. Replacement engine came with inlet manifold and ecu so left those on. Had to use original wiring as plug cut off replacement engine wiring. Usual dash lights on when ignition on, most go out after a few seconds, oil battery and key lights remain on.
Thanks for prompt reply.
 
you need to make sure crank sensor wired up and gap correct
maybe you damaged it fitting it?
if you fitted a later engine from a big headlight model then inlet manifold is slightly different for map sensor and ive read might cause issues
Thanks for replying so quickly. Replacement motor came with inlet manifold so left that on. Where is crank sensor positioned?
Thanks again.
 
You've probably already thought of this but are you using the original key? If so it could be the immobiliser. The chip in the ignition key has to match the new ECU before the ECU will allow the engine to start.
 
It's blatantly the immobiliser (well at least it's part of the problem) the key light isn't going out... As said you either need to program your key(s) to the ECU (can be done with MulitECUScan http://www.multiecuscan.net/ or by a mobile automotive locksmith) or get hold of all the locks and keys that from the car the engine was originally fitted too.
 
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It's blatantly the immobiliser (well at least it's part of the problem) the key light isn't going out... As said you either need to program your key(s) to the ECU (can be done with MulitECUScan http://www.multiecuscan.net/ or by a mobile automotive locksmith) or get hold of all the locks and keys that from the car the engine was originally fitted too.

OP
please ignore all of this post it is basically all wrong and for a member with so many posts i dispair and will cause you to look to the wrong reasons

as said earlier by people who know what they are talking about
its either
ecu hasnt been changed from old engine
or irs a crankshaft sensor fault

signed .......amazed
 
OP
please ignore all of this post it is basically all wrong and for a member with so many posts i dispair and will cause you to look to the wrong reasons

as said earlier by people who know what they are talking about
its either
ecu hasnt been changed from old engine
or irs a crankshaft sensor fault

signed .......amazed

No I'll tell you what's amazing the fact you've gone so long without an infraction or warning. I suggest you read the forum rules and adjust the tone of your posts. You provide good information but that's no excuse for a messiah complex.

Replacement engine came with inlet manifold and ecu so left those on.

I'm not being funny but I read that as he's used the ECU that came with new engine? That ECU (UNLESS modified) will not work with his current keys. Or am I missing something? :confused:
 
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Agreed with the ECU and Keys in my opinion

Each ecu has its own Key CODE to match a specific key. You CANNOT use your existing key on a existing ecu from a differnt engine to the one your keys are for.

This is different to buying a new ecu or recon ecu as they get set to your Keys
 
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Deffo ECU, you also need the exact same BSI (behind interior fusebox) which came with the old ecu (8v on the back of the engine, 16v on top of the TB), and also the same keys, ignition barrel etc.
Just the ecu and keys (without the bsi) will trigger the immobiliser and you wont get no fuel or spark, and the car will not start up :)

Hope this helps.
 
when the steering failed on me mrs 2004 HGT the steering motor HAD to be the correct one matching its transponder or the car would reject it!

When doing an engine change on a 1.25 fiesta of the same age you HAD to make sure you either had -

all the coded compents from the old engine put onto the new engine ( easiest way ) transponder, key , ecu in fiesta case crank positioning sensor etc etc

or make sure you get with the 2nd hand engine all the relavent parts and wire them in ( not the easiest way )

Now adays its silly to by just a 2nd hand engine for say a 2001 onwards car for this exact reason, its better to by a donar car that has been rear ended that still runs then you know you have everything.
 
Deffo ECU, you also need the exact same BSI (behind interior fusebox) which came with the old ecu (8v on the back of the engine, 16v on top of the TB), and also the same keys, ignition barrel etc.
Just the ecu and keys (without the bsi) will trigger the immobiliser and you wont get no fuel or spark, and the car will not start up :)

Hope this helps.

The simplest fix is to refit the original engine ECU. The original engine loom has been fitted to this new lump, so there'll be no issues with missing/extra wires or the cam sensor signals confusing the old ECU. ;)

Only thing to check is if the '03 engine came with an altered bottom aux pulley and crank sensor mounting (on some, Fiat moved the crank sensor phonic wheel from the inner edge to nearer the front- meaning the sensor would be unable to 'see' the toothed wheel if the wrong spec one is fitted).

when the steering failed on me mrs 2004 HGT the steering motor HAD to be the correct one matching its transponder or the car would reject it!

This makes no sense- the PAS has no bearing on the keycode system. :confused:
 
Only thing to check is if the '03 engine came with an altered bottom aux pulley and crank sensor mounting (on some, Fiat moved the crank sensor phonic wheel from the inner edge to nearer the front- meaning the sensor would be unable to 'see' the toothed wheel if the wrong spec one is fitted).

is that aircon and non aircon or random?
 
is that aircon and non aircon or random?

Probably A/C related, Dave. TBH, it may just be Fiat's usual trick of fitting whatever is in the parts bin when they run out of the normal part (like the randomness of the large/small oil filter and the mk2 headlamps having different bulb combo's). :cry:

I just remember we once had to replace an 8v lump under warranty, and when the new one came through the crank sensor and alternator wouldn't line up due to a difference in the pulley. Ended up swapping a few components around to get everything working correctly.
 
Probably A/C related, Dave. TBH, it may just be Fiat's usual trick of fitting whatever is in the parts bin when they run out of the normal part (like the randomness of the large/small oil filter and the mk2 headlamps having different bulb combo's). :cry:

I just remember we once had to replace an 8v lump under warranty, and when the new one came through the crank sensor and alternator wouldn't line up due to a difference in the pulley. Ended up swapping a few components around to get everything working correctly.

the map sensors are different between mk2 and 2b so we always swap manifolds over just in case its an issue
not had a problem with crank sensors yet
are you sure it wasnt one of the last 2b's with the even later 8 valve engine with different rocker top?
 
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