Technical New owner questions

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Technical New owner questions

smart51

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Here's my new 500R. I've done 20 miles so far and I'm enjoying it. I have a few newbie type questions.

First, I've only noticed since I've driven away that the passenger side seat belt buckle is missing. There is a nut, bolt and washer but that's all. What is the right replacement part?

It drives at 80km/h / 50MPH fine most of the time but occasionally stumbles for a few seconds. What's the most likely problem? It has a 28IMB carb fitted and electronic ignition.

It needs a bit of throttle to idle properly when hot. Is there a good way to set the idle speed?

When driving at 50 MPH it will occasionally jump out of 4th. How sacred of the problem should I be?

Lastly, how do I turn the heater off?
 
Is there a way to make the door mirror less useless?
 

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Also, what are the ignition key positions, there seems to be three and the dealer said the middle one is off.
 
I can help with a few of those....

The heater, there is a small lever on top of the centre tunnel in the floor, on the right hand side just in front of the seat base. This is the heater control. If closing this flap doesn't stop the hot air, then the rubber seal inside the flap will be damaged. If you lift the carpet there is an inspection hatch you can unscrew and get relatively easy access to replace the flap.

The idle speed is controlled by 2 screws on the carb. There is one on the throttle arm that sets the throttle stop position, and a screw very near the base of the carb facing the rear of the car which is the idle mixture. Raise the idle speed a bit with the throttle stop, then adjust the mixture screw til the engine runs fastest / happiest. Then you can reduce the speed a little with the throttle stop, then check the mixture is still correct. Repeat a couple of times till you're happy with the idle speed. Dont forget to check it idles happily with the lights/wipers on, when the generator is drawing power.

The stumbling at speed could be many things. As its a new car to you, a general once over, checking the spark plug condition, the timing, valve clearances and possibly even giving the carb a clean out might help. It's possible that the stumbling at speed could be related to the same weakness that is causing the poor hot idle.

Edit:

The door mirror I think will be an aftermarket one bolted to the original holes n the door, which means its low and useless... ask me how I know.. haha.

The ignition positions are centre = off, clockwise = ignition on and anti-clockwise = lights only, so you can leave the car with parking lights on. Be aware it puts the whole lighting circuit on though, not just the side lights, so you'll need to use the column switch to select side lights should you want to do this.

There is a user manual for 500L in the downloads section that you might find useful, even though your car is an R it will largely still apply, it helped me to know what all the switches did and things on my F!
 
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I can help with a few of those....

The heater, there is a small lever on top of the centre tunnel in the floor, on the right hand side just in front of the seat base. This is the heater control. If closing this flap doesn't stop the hot air, then the rubber seal inside the flap will be damaged. If you lift the carpet there is an inspection hatch you can unscrew and get relatively easy access to replace the flap.

The idle speed is controlled by 2 screws on the carb. There is one on the throttle arm that sets the throttle stop position, and a screw very near the base of the carb facing the rear of the car which is the idle mixture. Raise the idle speed a bit with the throttle stop, then adjust the mixture screw til the engine runs fastest / happiest. Then you can reduce the speed a little with the throttle stop, then check the mixture is still correct. Repeat a couple of times till you're happy with the idle speed. Dont forget to check it idles happily with the lights/wipers on, when the generator is drawing power.

The stumbling at speed could be many things. As its a new car to you, a general once over, checking the spark plug condition, the timing, valve clearances and possibly even giving the carb a clean out might help. It's possible that the stumbling at speed could be related to the same weakness that is causing the poor hot idle.

Edit:

The door mirror I think will be an aftermarket one bolted to the original holes n the door, which means its low and useless... ask me how I know.. haha.

The ignition positions are centre = off, clockwise = ignition on and anti-clockwise = lights only, so you can leave the car with parking lights on. Be aware it puts the whole lighting circuit on though, not just the side lights, so you'll need to use the column switch to select side lights should you want to do this.

There is a user manual for 500L in the downloads section that you might find useful, even though your car is an R it will largely still apply, it helped me to know what all the switches did and things on my F!
For the life of me, I can only see 4 levers. Gear, choke, starter and handbrake.
 
Further back behind the hand brake, it might even be half tucked under the seat base!

Of course its always possible the whole flap and lever is missing... that would cause the heater to be on al the time :oops:
 
Further back behind the hand brake, it might even be half tucked under the seat base!

Of course its always possible the whole flap and lever is missing... that would cause the heater to be on al the time :oops:
Found it! Thanks!
 
A disappointing development. I've broken down. The engine is stumbling badly and will barely move the car. The dealer is on his way with a trailer to recover me and repair. Thankfully, I bought a return train ticket.
 
That is a shame, and a disappointing way to start the relationship with a new vehicle.

I hope the dealer sorts it out for you quickly (and at their exhaust expense, presuming you’ve paid for a good running car not a project!) and you can get back out on the road for those first few exciting miles of ownership. 🙂
 
The dealer was apologetic and has taken the car away with the promise to repair and have it delivered back to me. He seems genuine. I know what you mean though. It wasn't a good chance to bond with it.
 
The dealer phoned me today with good news. They've replaced the points and condenser, cleaned the carb and fitted an air filter. The engine now runs. They've cleaned and greased the insides of the gear box and it stays in 4th gear again. It has two new seat belts and the broken off key removed. They can't deliver until a week on Monday, but 3 weeks later than planned, I should have a 500!
 
Late to the party, but in my experience, when it's running well otherwise, but occasionally stumbling at speed, it's always the ignition. Having gone through two different electronic ignitions - a full on 123igntion and a contactless hall-effect Pertronix kit - neither can hack the long term effects of heat buildup in these little cars. Regular old points and an upgraded (swiftune) condenser and you're set.
 
This is the distributor that is fitted. It apparently still has points and a condenser. Does anyone know what it is?
 

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Hi Smart, what you have there is an 'Elmot' rortorless distributor they first came onto the 126 cars as an upgrade in May 1985. The original was a 'Marelli' the polish variant is the 'Elmot' it only uses low tension voltage through a standard set of points to a separate coil (mine is a dry twin coil) on a 'lost spark' system. I have the same system and provided you keep the points in good nick and use the best condenser you can it will give no problems.
Ian.
 
Hi Smart, what you have there is an 'Elmot' rortorless distributor they first came onto the 126 cars as an upgrade in May 1985. The original was a 'Marelli' the polish variant is the 'Elmot' it only uses low tension voltage through a standard set of points to a separate coil (mine is a dry twin coil) on a 'lost spark' system. I have the same system and provided you keep the points in good nick and use the best condenser you can it will give no problems.
Ian.
I agree with Ian (Bleeding Knuckles), fitting a GOOD condenser is essential. There are 2 that can be mounted away from the distributor (and therefore away from the heat of the engin's 'cooling' air)---they are "Swiftune" and "Shacktune". Both of these condensers have long 'power' and 'earth' leads, enabling them to be mounted away from the distributor and up by the coil. Most modern 'normal' condensers are very cheaply built; a source of a GOOD 'normal' condenser is "Distributor Doctor"---their '484249' condenser, with a bit of tweaking of the mounting bracket, will fit fine, and is made (in the UK) to a high standard
 
My car is now back. Woohoo! I'm going to order a few parts to bring it up to standard. What is missing from the front panel where the bonnet closes here:

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Can these trim ring be replaced by themselves?

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And can you recommend a good supplier of touch up paint to match the original?
 
Yes, the door handle trim can be purchased separately.
You are missing a rubber 'cone' that help provide positive pressure on the bonnet catch, plus a small rectangular bumper which prevents the leading edge of the bonnet rubbing against the top of the front panel.
 
A happy ending. I've spent two weeks fixing up more of the car than I thought needed doing. Paint and a few spots of rust mostly, but also a couple of bits of trim and some iffy lights. This evening I refitted the last of the parts and have done a 15 mile drive. All is good and all is right in the world. I had it up to 60 on the dual carriageway briefly, though it didn't want to go any further. It cruises at 50 comfortably, and I'm happy with that. I was worried about downshifts on the move but it's not too bad. I was thinking about selling it on once it was right, but I might keep it a bit longer first.
 
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