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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
Not in my case Mr. A!

My precious 20W50 Wilko Mineral oil @ £2.4/litre does not leak out (yet)any more.

Drained oil seems to be just a little tiny bit thinner after Italy trip and a bit more opaque with some grey ish haze. More metal filing were found on the magnetic drain plug no gear chunks yet but we're getting there slowly.
 
Bit more done during this weekend.

Both of the old bottom ball joints had axial play noticible by hands.

No wonder why
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Back to suspension lift.
New special flange was fitted in
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One side is ready now

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Some detailng there, sisley caps will sat in box as i'm hoping they will multiply just like that.
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The car is still on stands with free hanging wheels to to be honest there is litterally no compresion of coil sping if you jack up un the lower arm. There are clearly few different routes you can take for the lift kit, but i'm just worried hoe this one will affect the ride and how it's going to behave off the road on uneaven surface.
Camber look good, no need to modify the sump guard, tie rods does need a bit more of clearance as they touch on max turn to the opening bottom, extra 5mm max,


And the oposite side

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- This is a first for me, I've got flange envy. Is this alloy or steel please?

You must seen that before

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STD- cast alloy, 127 - cast iron, hi-lift one - machined alloy.

As you can seen the drive shaft opening has been relocated towards the bottom to maximise the angle which the half shaft will be operating after the lift.

127 flange give the same hole position but is made from cast iron which give robust alternative for up to 3cm lift.
This 127 flange on the photo was machined out on the inner diameter by 3-4mm giving extra clearance.

Moded one can be purchased on it's own for 80-100 euro.
 
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I've just set reminder at my phone not to forget to put oil into gearbox.
As in all that exitement i could be easily overlooked and cause more unexpected and unwanted disaster.
 
You must seen that before

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STD- cast alloy, 127 - cast iron, hi-lift one - machined alloy.

As you can seen the drive shaft opening has been relocated towards the bottom to maximise the angle which the half shaft will be operating after the lift.

127 flange give the same hole position but is made from cast iron which give robust alternative for up to 3cm lift.
This 127 flange on the photo was machined out on the inner diameter by 3-4mm giving extra clearance.

Moded one can be purchased on it's own for 80-100 euro.


I'd like the steel 127 one please. (y) - My issue is the pre-load on the diff bearing - the std alloy casting is pretty flexible and brittle so getting the required force isn't an exact science even following the detailed instructions in the 4x4 manual.

Any spare 127 flanges floating about please?
 
Any spare 127 flanges floating about please?

You have checked the clearance there? I assume.
The 127 flange stays with me as next project will need one as well, sorry mate. These are still available on ebay.it. I've managed to source two NOS pieces from Fiat Poland but the other was sold to forumer some time ago. I'm still on hunt for them. ( PM sent )


The Sisley is almost finished. first St@xton hill climb this weekend.

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For now the front wheels are spaced out with just the ordinary fiat spacers from X1/9 and CC so 8mm in total. Enough to provide clearance between inner wheel arch and tyre at full lock. Long therm i would say 20mm per wheel should make the fronts and rear wheels in-line.

More modification probably will take place as the ride is really stiff and I might not like it.
 
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Valve shims adjustment smeems to cured the " excessive smoking".

iI'm looking forward to Dec meet as well as this will reveal all the bad points of too stiff suspention.
 
Valve shims adjustment smeems to cured the " excessive smoking".

iI'm looking forward to Dec meet as well as this will reveal all the bad points of too stiff suspention.

How does it drive over the bumps on the road? My suspension was really stiff for a month or so before it settled in, I am sure yours will loosen up mate.
 
How does it drive over the bumps on the road? My suspension was really stiff for a month or so before it settled in, I am sure yours will loosen up mate.

Over the speed bumps it feels like the bumps are just 10cm raised sections of the road, no body roll - just the tyres.

Few things must be sorted before the underside will get muddy again. Hope it will sattle a bit as in your case.

Next thing is that the old front and rear shocks were poor/ useless therefore my recolection of the ride comfort might be mislead a bit.
 
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