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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
New ignition barrel in place, actually the barrel case is still the old one with new set of pawls from the new barrel. I'm glad as that means that one key + fuel cap will be from now on.

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And the pawl itself.
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New ignition barrel in place, actually the barrel case is still the old one with new set of pawls from the new barrel.

Brilliant work. - Next step, melt down the brass and recast the pawls to match an existing set in the fuel filler cap..

On second thoughts, when was the last time fuel syphoning theft took place? - Perhaps easier to disable the filler cap lock?

(y)
 
As it was actually predictable, the boot lock was different again.

I've used OE set of locks but some odd reason the boot lock barrel was actually exact same as the door lock barrel.

I can confirm that the door barrel can be modified to fit and work in the boot plus you got one extra seal around the barrel. I had to use boot lock case from another full set.
Both doors were done in 30min including lubricating all inner mechanisms.
 
Sump guard is finished and fitted back, rear bolts and cavities been cleaned and sealed up.

My calculations were correct and bullbar does not interfer with the front tube/slider part. Skid/splash plate can be removed seprately..

Further plans are to extend the guard further to the central propshaft support plate, making protection along prop.

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Sump guard had to be modified, as I wasn't able to put in 1st gear. 40min later all working. Been out on the St@xton hill proving ground- extra clearance makes masive difference, suspention stiffenes makes noticible difference as well. Tommorow morning I'm starting the. "24 hours challange" to swap engine as this one is crap/junk/waste of space/still badly smoking under heavy load.
 
This is the metioned piece which was removed from one of the pipes.

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and in situ

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Mid-way up the St@xton hill, with the lift I can attack the edge perpendicural when previously only on an angle.

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on the way down

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You don't need much now to get the wheel in the air, on the first climp i went full speed with now issues, 2nd and 3rd try was more technical with low speed - had to revers in two placeses to gain speed/ change route.

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Guys,

I'm in big need for help!!!!

Does anyone swaped engine with the gearbox left in place?
Is the any specific procedurude to follow? Gearbox on an angle removed timing side? etc.

I've manage to remove my old engine but ONLY after unduing the clutch cover plate from flywheel.

I'm worried that it might be nightmare to do that in reverse order. Not mentioning geting the clutch alignment.

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Next question is - are the clutch same for 2wd and 4x4?

I'll swap the clutch as well as the old one was almost catching the rivets.
I've got two to choose from.
Left - 2wd, right 4x4 - the groves were not there from day one, Thickness is the same only the number of springs.
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This is how I've removed engines in the past. As Dragon Man informed me it's best to dismantle the chassis rail gearbox mount and move the box across. This in turn aids you when re-aligning the clutch also.

I'm not sure on whether the 2wd clutch is the same, but on your pic the 4x4 one looks a larger diameter. Don't worry about the spring numbers etc. As different manufacturers put more or less on depending on design.

When mounting the new clutch and plate on the engine it's easy enough to use a tape measure in order to centralise the clutch, it may take some goes undoing the plate to get it right, otherwise make an alignment tool - brush handles are good for this ;)
 
I have always pulled them in and out through the bottom of the bay - assembling the box onto the engine is easier on the floor. It helps to undo the gearbox side suspension arm but it does all squeeze up with some wiggling.
It's a full on job to do in a day on your own though.

Good luck J.
 
Cheers guys! (y)


It was tight! Advise for others, put 15mm socket on the oil pressure sender to prevent any damaged to the male spade connector. I think i've taken completely new approch, let say inspection hole will be given new function i'll try to put the cluch cover plate bolts back through that hole.
As far as it goes both parth are "on dovels" and bolts lighly in, only plate bolts are missing. Hope my plan will work.


My new engine,
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Old oe cluch wihich was replaced in the Black Panda, cluch had 40k on it, and was fine. To aid in holding the disc in correct position piece of string was used. Assembly was located ot to cluchch shaft wit the string comming out through the inspection hole.

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cluth cover plate and fly wheel locating dovels with bolt holes marked

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Best tool shelf you can have

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Extra anchor points next to the flywheel

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Remaining string pieces removed.

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Tommorow magnetic socket will be used to put the bolts back in.
If all other will be fine, should by running by and off the day.
 
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Can confirm that it is doable!

All six bolts where screwed in via inspection hole using both forefingers, and tightened in few rounds, there was no need to undo/loosening the opposite gearbox mount.

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Timing is set to 2 degrees BTDC with no advance. Dizzy is already in max out (front) position, would that suggest that belt is tooth out? Or alse? I'll check all marks tonight.
 
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