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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
Yes without a doubt, it's amazing just how much difference new suspension makes! So what does your job list look like now? You'll have ticked a fair few boxes in the last month!


Exactly! by accident i've left my updated list at work, ( i'm sure my bosses would understand the importancy of my panda mod list).

Lots to do, but there is still 5.5 day holidays to take so one week should knock few others.
 
As the rear diff if the lowest point now some sort of protector, rock slider will be fabricated.
number of different steel plates, tubes been gathered across last few weeks and brand new 20 litre Argon Mix is here.
 
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I'm planing not to go too far "heavy duty" , so 2 - 3 mm thicksteel in slim line design, main focus on rear cover and input shaft bearing/cv joint. Extension of the sump guard structure towards rear to protect the gear levers will take place as well. Guard will be fully covered in Aluminium Composite sheet ( 4mm polyethylene core covered with 0.8mm alluminiun on both sides)
 
Aluminium Composite sheet
bad idea, its fragile materal, better use even 2mm but sold alumnium sheet than this, friend used this composite in his rally cinquecento, after "one day at the races" there were holes through.My 2,5mm alu plate received mamy many hits,stone abuse etc,and still no holes, bends here and there but solid like 4 years ago.
 
bad idea, its fragile materal, better use even 2mm but sold alumnium sheet than this

I'll go for it anyway as it was free to me, it is SkyBond so branded ACM product.

It's nice material to work on so if it's going to brak/crack it will be used as template for aluminium sheet.
 
Does anybody managed to find out why the dash clocks starts going late?

I now that on some point Fiat done recall on the first type of clocks ( dials with hour marks only), all where changed to the newer type with more marks.

I've got both type and they do loose time, would small tweek in the clock motor power circuit solve it ?

The later type is infront of me at work with all internal gear lubed, time will show!
 
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Does anybody managed to find out why the dash clocks starts going late?

I now that on some point Fiat done recall on the first type of clocks ( dials with hour marks only), all where changed to the newer type with more marks.

I've got both type and they do loose time, would small tweek in the clock motor power circuit solve it ?

The later type is infront of me at work with all internal gear lubed, time will show!
I believe/read somewhere that the little plastic gears in them wear down so they just naturally start to lose time, although mine ('92) doesn't ever seem to run slow.
 
Lubed clock is running spot on since 8am, but no vibrations been subjected yet.

I'll oil the other one as well and see in within few days. If that will not solve the issue i'm upgrading to CC digital clock.
 
I was hoping that the ignition barrel will be change tonight, but instead of having the job done i've find out that there are two types of ignition barrel and shroud.
Does anybody have spare barrel shroud for the later type?
 
I have the one off Hilary, she was a '91 so I presume this will be the later type?

It would be appreciated if you could remove the barrel and check which type of barrel you got there. The small round and oval key type classification is no good as i've third set which is small key and "later" type of barrel.

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Bottom - my current barrel `89
Top - "later" type, wider slot, smaller chamfer, missing locating lug.

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And the shroud, if you got different looking one I will be interested.

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Meanwhile the exhaust pipe was modified not to interfer with the shacles any more

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Been on local scarappy his morning as well and brought few bits back.
I would have pair of nice rock slider of Old Cheeroke but had no 24mm deep socket or any spaner etc.

For future reference this came of Mitsu Shogun

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As mentioned earlier the Aluminium composite material might not be too robust therefore this 2.5mm steel nicely shaped with strengthening press-outs

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Profile will have to be adjusted for better fit, cut-outs will be blanked and new one added for oil drain and plug access.

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And new Dealer sticked on the back window

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Mitsu guard just been subjected to small cosmetics operiation on the good old fashion 6" fly wheel press - they are so much better over the hydraulic ones.

The back edge lip has been flattened same as the pressings along the side which were interfering with frame. Now it follows the profile reach over to the front cross member/bumper.
Now back to extending the frame to gain protection for the gear change rods and propshaft cv joint.
 
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