Technical Multiple blower problems

[dougeatspizza]

Evening all,

So, I appear to have at least three problems with the fan blowers in my Punto Mk2 (2003).

Firstly, it only ran on 4. This is the oh-so-common resistor module problem, and I know how to fix that, easy. It turned out the wires on the plug were all melted, so replaced the plug too.

However, it still didn't work. So I took out the resistor module entirely and started checking for voltage. I was getting 12v across its contacts. Fine.

Removed motor and tested it on a separate 12vDC system. Worked fine.

Connected resistor module contacts to each other to test voltage at motor contacts. 12v read.

So in isolation, each bit appears to work fine, but not when connected.

Then I noticed the other problem I've seen reported here, in that when the controls are switched up to 3 or 4, the parking lights come on.

According to the threads about this, the problem may lie in the wiring to the back of the control switch in the central console, so today I set about taking that apart. Unable to get to the wiring behind the switch due to how tight it is, so firstly, any thoughts how to get to it?

Further complicating matters, though, is that at this point I decided to check the voltages and connections again. Now I'm getting nothing, zip, zero, anywhere. Not true, actually; on speed 3 or 4 I'm getting approx 3 millivolts, nothing more.

I have checked the fuse that I believe to be the relevant one, but that works fine.

So, thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Doug

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi Doug..

Its a LONG time since I did the 'lights on' wiring repair.. 6.5 years apparently.. my reason for joining the forum

But dont recall access being TOO BAD..

I Did the 'bypass. Fix' IIRC..my nephews car..

To COOK these terminals involves plenty of over current.. so not unrealistic to expect similar crispyness elsewhere.

My old sporting had flaky wiring.. but the occasional wiggle always restored service.

Charlie

 

[judderbar]

Evening all,

So, I appear to have at least three problems with the fan blowers in my Punto Mk2 (2003).

Firstly, it only ran on 4. This is the oh-so-common resistor module problem, and I know how to fix that, easy. It turned out the wires on the plug were all melted, so replaced the plug too.

However, it still didn't work. So I took out the resistor module entirely and started checking for voltage. I was getting 12v across its contacts. Fine.

Removed motor and tested it on a separate 12vDC system. Worked fine.

Connected resistor module contacts to each other to test voltage at motor contacts. 12v read.

So in isolation, each bit appears to work fine, but not when connected.

Then I noticed the other problem I've seen reported here, in that when the controls are switched up to 3 or 4, the parking lights come on.

According to the threads about this, the problem may lie in the wiring to the back of the control switch in the central console, so today I set about taking that apart. Unable to get to the wiring behind the switch due to how tight it is, so firstly, any thoughts how to get to it?

Further complicating matters, though, is that at this point I decided to check the voltages and connections again. Now I'm getting nothing, zip, zero, anywhere. Not true, actually; on speed 3 or 4 I'm getting approx 3 millivolts, nothing more.

I have checked the fuse that I believe to be the relevant one, but that works fine.

So, thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Doug

Burnt out parts could be because the fan bearings need some oil after 15 years of use. It can be done with a thin stick at the fan end and at the motor end is easy by removing the rubber plug. It could be the fan will run on a short length of wire but is stalling when on the longer wire in the car and poor connections.

The fan relay is in the engine fuse box.


The fan earth goes to just below the battery where there is a black plastic connecting block with many earth wires.

 

[dougeatspizza]

Thank you both.

varesecrazy: All makes sense to me. I was considering the bypass fix but had decided to check the switch first. Regretting that now as I appear to have made it worse (no voltage showing at all).

judderbar: Absolutely, I'll oil the fan once I've got the power issues fixed. I've checked the fuse and the relay, both work perfectly.

There definitely appears to be a connection with the lighting circuit. While the parking lights now DON'T come on when I turn the fan on (and the 12V I previously read has gone), there is a slight flicker of life when I turn the headlights on (only to the tune of 2-3mV, but still)...

Is it still worth doing the bypass of the connector block I've seen on other threads? Those threads appear to be when 12V is still being registered, but that's no longer the case...

 

[s and b]

if you think about it
you have power going down a cable
this is then sent down different avenue via the rheostat
the switch on the dash decides which flow to use
so best recable from rheostat to switch and isolate all the old cables

try doing it on a panda 10 plate with aircon

 

[judderbar]

Thank you both.

@varesecrazy: All makes sense to me. I was considering the bypass fix but had decided to check the switch first. Regretting that now as I appear to have made it worse (no voltage showing at all).

@judderbar: Absolutely, I'll oil the fan once I've got the power issues fixed. I've checked the fuse and the relay, both work perfectly.

There definitely appears to be a connection with the lighting circuit. While the parking lights now DON'T come on when I turn the fan on (and the 12V I previously read has gone), there is a slight flicker of life when I turn the headlights on (only to the tune of 2-3mV, but still)...

Is it still worth doing the bypass of the connector block I've seen on other threads? Those threads appear to be when 12V is still being registered, but that's no longer the case...

I am not sure what you mean by bypassing the connector. Which one?

Looking at the Haynes wiring diagram:


The blue at the fan motor connector should be positive 12 volts when the relay is activated. A long earth wire back to the battery makes this kind of thing easier to troubleshoot if you have earthing problems in the car.


The switch is switching the Earth on and off with resistances added for 1 to 3.


If the switch works then selecting 4 should give battery Earth at the orange wire of the fan connector, without resistance added from the resistor pack.


If the switch is broken you could just connect the fan orange to Earth and the fan will run at full power when you turn ignition on and you will still be protected by the fuse and relay.