Technical Multipla 1.9jtd...Engine warning (codes 010 & 235)

[Mark55]

Hey guys...

Pulling up to a junction earlier in the week and the engine warning light comes on with the message 'engine ctrl fault'

Previously no apparent issues. A little black smoke on hard acceleration but other wise starting, and running smoothly

Had a friend run a diagnostic and it came back with the following fault codes:

P0101 air mass sensor circuit
P0235 boost pressure

He cleared the codes and restarted the car. The warning message came up immediately and the same codes were present

He suggested that it could be cracked pipe around the turbo but given that the fault came on as soon it started, thought it might be electrical/sensor?

Tried running the car with the MAF Unplugged but no change

I've cleaned the maf and map sensors (map was really sooty) but there's been no change

I cleaned the ERG about 6 months ago

Given the state of the MAP sensor I'm considering that may be the issue but would welcome your wisdom and insight...

Many thanks

 

[realstokebloke]

Hi Mark,

I guess we can swap notes as & when we solve this as I have just got the same code read on mine (see my thread) but as you will see on there, mine has gone into limp mode and won't rev past the3k limit.

So surprised yours hasn't - or maybe it's indicative of what my mr spanners said, namely that turbo codes / problems can be a multitude of things, so maybe mine's more serious and triggered the limp mode?

(That said, I suspect there will be just one code, not degrees of the same code with some triggering the limp safety.)

Keep me posted : )

 

[Sinny]

You may as well try the obvious and simple things first - look and listen for leaks from the turbo and it's piping. There's various ways (search You Tube for some good - and terrible - ideas - but a bit of thin tube stuck in your ear and used like a stethoscope is as good any.

A quick spray around with Easy Start is one way of finding leaks. I definitely don't recommend it though.
Take that as you will....

 

[Mark55]

The car is in limp mode...most annoying!

 

[widemouthfrog]

With the engine switched off, reach down between engine/gearbox & the radiator & give the corrugated rubber hose that connects to the turbo a good squeeze to get a feel for how 'squidgy' it is in its own right. Be warned that this pipe is invariably covered in oil & road grime; your hand will come out filthy!

Now start the engine, get an able assistant to hold the revs at around 1,500-2,000rpm (to get the engine properly 'on boost') while you give the same pipe a good squeeze. It should feel a lot firmer & harder to squash. If it doesn't, the turbo isn't boosting. Roll the revs on and off - you should feel the pipe firm & soften as the boost comes & goes.

That'll give you a starting point for diagnosis.

 

[widemouthfrog]

Btw, P0235 fault can be flagged by quite a few things. Try using the forum search tool & you'll see what I mean.

 

[Mark55]

With the engine switched off, reach down between engine/gearbox & the radiator & give the corrugated rubber hose that connects to the turbo a good squeeze to get a feel for how 'squidgy' it is in its own right. Be warned that this pipe is invariably covered in oil & road grime; your hand will come out filthy!

Now start the engine, get an able assistant to hold the revs at around 1,500-2,000rpm (to get the engine properly 'on boost') while you give the same pipe a good squeeze. It should feel a lot firmer & harder to squash. If it doesn't, the turbo isn't boosting. Roll the revs on and off - you should feel the pipe firm & soften as the boost comes & goes.

That'll give you a starting point for diagnosis.

>>>will gives this a look: thank you

Having cleared the codes the fault reappeared when I turned the ignition and let the car run its 'self check'

Would a split pipe cause this? Its whats making think its a sensor issue...what do you reckon?

 

[g8rpi]

Did the fault light come on before you started the engine?
If so it's probably a sensor or wiring fault.

Robert G8RPI.

 

[Mark55]

Did the fault light come on before you started the engine?
If so it's probably a sensor or wiring fault.

Robert G8RPI.

>>>hey thanks Robert...any opinion on where to start? Seems the MAP sensor is a common fault but with no signs of rough running im unsure?

 

[widemouthfrog]

If it's flagging fault codes as soon as you turn the ignition on, as Robert says - it's probably a bad connection somewhere. What have you removed/refitted recently? Go back to them, pull the plug(s) off, check for bent pins and contacts, give them a good spray with some electrical cleaner and try again. Also if you can get at the individual wires going into the back of the plugs, gently pull on each wire to make sure they're still anchored.

 

[Mark55]

If it's flagging fault codes as soon as you turn the ignition on, as Robert says - it's probably a bad connection somewhere. What have you removed/refitted recently? Go back to them, pull the plug(s) off, check for bent pins and contacts, give them a good spray with some electrical cleaner and try again. Also if you can get at the individual wires going into the back of the plugs, gently pull on each wire to make sure they're still anchored.

>>> hey buddy...havent touched anything of late. Since the problem arose I did remove and clean the MAP sensor which was pretty sooty and have cleaned the MAF too. Will check connections as suggested and failing all else replace both...if bh chance I replace a faulty sensor, do you know if the fault code will clear or does it have to be reset?

 

[widemouthfrog]

From my experience with messing around with the MAP, if you fix the cause of the problem the fault code will eventually go away on its own, but you have to put up with it for a few days.

Check the wiring to the MAP sensor for breaks. Because the fault is flagging as soon as you turn the ignition on (i.e. engine not running), it won't be anything to do with the vacuum pipes. That's the usual cause of these type of faults, so yours sounds a little out of the ordinary. Perhaps you've got a short or bad earth somewhere?

It might be worth a try on the advance search facility on the forum, using a combination of terms like "P0235 engine off" or "P0235 ignition". You may strike lucky. The fault codes aren't unique to the Multi, so fixes found for this fault on the JTD in other sections are likely just as valid.

 

[g8rpi]

>>>hey thanks Robert...any opinion on where to start? Seems the MAP sensor is a common fault but with no signs of rough running im unsure?

Where are you located? getting better diagnostics plugged in would help.
Widemouthfrog's comments are also valid.

Regards,
Robert G8RPI.

 

[Mark55]

Where are you located? getting better diagnostics plugged in would help.
Widemouthfrog's comments are also valid.

Regards,
Robert G8RPI.

>>>located in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk

 

[g8rpi]

>>>located in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk

Hi Mark,
I'm just of the A14 at Bar Hill, about 35miles away. If you ever come over this way I'm happy to plug multiecuscan in and do a bit dianostics.

Robert G8RPI.

 

[widemouthfrog]

That would be a sensible option!

I've had a quick dig around and found this thread. Lots of chaff to be separated from wheat, but there are useful points in there:
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/127328-my-findings-p0235-error-code.html

Something that is mentioned, that I'd forgotten about, is the turbo boost solenoid getting soaked. This is the item bolted to bottom left of the bracket that the airbox sits on (as viewed from the front of the car). Most cars have a small diameter red tube running to it from the turbo. I don't think the JTD 105 has one as the turbo on those isn't a VGT. These are well known for giving problems if they get soaked as a result of driving through flood water or VERY heavy rain. Given the weather we've had lately, is this a possibility?

 

[Mark55]

I have GOOD news!

But first; guys let me offer you a MASSIVE thank you for all the incredible advice and guidance. Really appreciated and feel thankful to have such a great bunch of guys to draw on in the future

So the good news!

Our beloved Multipla 'Mac' is back on the road

Had left it sitting on the drive after cleaning the MAP sensor a couple of days ago and the EWL coming back on. Off out for a walk this evening and thought I'd just check for the hell of it and ALL IS WELL!

What's more, performance is hugely improved! Hadn't really noticed it but there had been a real flat spot after 3,500rpm which has vanished

SO relieved that the simplest and least expensive method proved successful...such a rarity!

Thank you all again

Now just got to change the cam belt, replace a drive shaft (inner cv appears to have worn) and change the clutch...all simple and straight forward stuff right?