General  MOT advice

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General  MOT advice

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Apr 27, 2021
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13 year old Panda with 74,0000 on clock.
Ok —Just passed for another year, with the cost of one new near side rear shock absorber, ( why do garages always find something which you thought was ok)
But, I have advisories
a tyre which is close to replacing (self explanatory)
rear suspension units corroded, looks like I have to get down and dirty with wire brush ( any advice as to which anti rust treatment is best would be appreciated)
and both front shock absorbers have “light oil misting” what does that mean, Replace before next MOT or what?

Any advice
Thanks
Richard
 
Light misting means the they are loosing oil. Eventually it will effect handling. How bad they are leaking., will affect how long they will last. Sometimes years. In my experience though they don’t normally last a year once they start leaking, they slowly get worse. If the garage diagnostics is to be trusted I would keep an eye out for some low mileage second hand ones. They do turn up occasionally for around £15-£25 each. Just had to do one on my Suzuki. I had to wait a few months and payed £25 delivered of eBay

No messing with spring compressor’s and so forth. I would expect the lower bolts to be quit corroded worth spraying with penetrating oil a few day before doing the job
 
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No idea which is best rustproofing

But if you remove any loose paint and flaking and cover with something that stops the air reaching the metal, it will not corrode. I have bushed grease over corroded areas and they haven’t gone any worse over the next few years. Probably not the best but cheap and fairly effective.
 
The front shocks are starting to leak, though they are not yet dripping.
The tester has found some moisture around the seals and on the face of it they are only going to get worse, so plan on replacing them before your next test.
They aren't expensive parts to buy, just a bit of a faff to replace.

The back axle with the lower spring mounts are prone to rusting.
Some have rotted away and snapped.
How to treat it depends what state it's already in and if you're prepared for some dirty work.

There's an option of removing the axle, grinding out and treating the rust, then protecting the metal with a coating of paint, underseal or whatever.

You could try it while it's still on the car, but it's tricky to get at it all.

Rust has got hold and it doesn't like to let go, so the above options will prolong the axle between a little or a lot, depending on how bad it was to start with and what sort of job you do with the wire brush, grinder and pot of paint.

You could if just swap out the axle for a new one.
A genuine Fiat one is expensive, but IM Axles sell replacement axles for these for around £120.
https://www.imaxle.co.uk/
I believe it's made from slightly thicker steel and is better protected with paint that the original ever was.

It might be a better option and not much more money than burning out a load of flap discs, applying a rust remedy and splattering your old axle with primer and paint.
 
Many thanks for the replies, especially Goudrons, replacing the whole axle sounds a much better idea than all the faff of cleaning etc. Especially as where they come from is only about five miles from where I live.
Now I’ve had a bit of time to look through all answers on previous postings by others on the same subjects, it’s the same old answer. “You pays your money you takes your choice”.
Thanks again.
 
Many thanks for the replies, especially Goudrons, replacing the whole axle sounds a much better idea than all the faff of cleaning etc. Especially as where they come from is only about five miles from where I live.
Now I’ve had a bit of time to look through all answers on previous postings by others on the same subjects, it’s the same old answer. “You pays your money you takes your choice”.
Thanks again.
you might find the axle not that bad. Its better to assess it for yourself

MOTs are subjective. One man corrosion is another's mans light rust.
 
I took my back axle to a grit blasting company and had it blasted and zinc metal sprayed. It's overkill of course but only cost £80. A cheap alternative is chainsaw bar oil thinned with white spirit. It soaks into the surface rust and gels. Just knock off loose rust and spray it on. If you want proper restoration preparations, check out www.Frost.co.uk.

I also took the chance to replace the back brake lines and hoses with braided lines. These are 600mm long running from the joint under the rear body all the way to the brake. Keeping rubber hoses at the front maintains the normal brake pedal feel.
 
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