Technical Code Readers and Apps - any advice?

[WyreWheels]

I think I'm going to buy bluetooth code reader, primarily for our BMW 2-serice Active Tourer and Mini Cooper SD and get the BimmerCode software so that I can rewind rear calipers, replace batteries and update the onboard service records.

My mind has wandered to the Panda (2010 1.1) that has a splutter/misfire under load or acceleration (if you can call it that) that I'd like to sort out. It's pretty scary at times, especially if I use my local M6 on slip that is very uphill, maxing out at just under 50mph before the slip road ends.

Would anyone have any recommendations for a possible reader that will work for both the BMW/Mini and the Panda and what you use for software on a phone or tablet?

Forgive the question, I am aware this (and the spluttering) has been covered previously, but things change quite quickly these days!

Many thanks.

 

[koalar]

A splitter under heavy accelerion is normally a oil fouled MAP, or plug gap too wide

 

[koalar]

Be careful with these type of readers

Only one of these work correctly

But it gives you the most bang for buck

£3 or so plus an android phone gives you access to all the engine and live data

With some adapters it gives you access to the other modules such as abs and EPS

Cheap Scanners Known to Work | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

I see a few people asking about engine check light I thread with readers known to work might help others I see someone has had success with a C reader 30001 Which also does live data 👍 https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/fiat-diesel-garage-in-the-midlands.496210/ and in 2022 can be had for...

www.fiatforum.com

The reader at the top is very cheap just plugs in an works, no setting up, easiest to use, but is limited to engine only, but does live data


Here one of the fake elm327 inside

The chips identifying information has been scratched off

 

[koalar]

Free alfaobd demo and a working elm327 with the correct adaptor, if needed, give you access to all the modules in the car, no interactive test they are paid only, that and the amount you can graph at once are the only limitations

Free MultiECUscan on windows laptop and a working elm327 gives you access the the engine module, no interactive tests, payed version plus correct adaptor, if needed gives you access to all modules


99% of the time for a drivability issue, I only use a good working elm327 and an android phone with the free car scanner app, the refresh rate is much better than my old xp laptop and multiecuecan

Rarely does the laptop ever get used, unless is something other than engine

Handheld are convenient, from very basic clear codes only, then with graphing upto being able to program keys as well

 

[WyreWheels]

Thank you for the advice and link to the article. I’ll have a read through when I get home.

 

[koalar]

For more versatility

If you do go the elm327 route try and get the older version 1.5 one

Some software such as SZ Viewer (Suzuki software) doesn't run on some of the later versions

Unfortunately some seller have cotton on to this and are selling as version 1.5 even when they are not

 

[WyreWheels]

I had a back braking reach over the rocker cover to take the spark plugs out last night. All gapped to 1mm, but quite pale looking.

Then I took the MAP sensor out. Covered in oil. I rinsed it off in brake cleaner and gave it a blow of air. Put it back and gave it a spin. Seemed more “urgent”, but still juddery.

I’ll get a code reader sorted out and see what comes back from it.

 

[WyreWheels]

A very exciting hour after work this evening. I bought a code reader that allows me to deal with our BMW Active Tourer and Mini Cooper SD and it has a generic code reader built in.

I also got a MAP sensor of eBay for the Panda.

Plugged the reader into the Panda, no codes.

Swapped the MAP sensor and the EML light came on. Plugged the reader into again and had a generic code with MAP circuit error. I cleared it, set off again and the EML light came back on. To be honest, the car didn’t drive any different. At home, I put the old Bosch MAP sensor back in, cleared the code and it has stayed off.

So… rubbish eBay sensor? Something else?

And what is this mysterious red plug I found floating around below the inlet manifold? It’s on a short lead.

 

[koalar]

Speed sensor, not used on cars with ABS

 

[koalar]

Never known the OEM Bosch MAP sensor fail

The occasionally need cleaning

 

[WyreWheels]

Speed sensor, not used on cars with ABS

Good news!

 

[WyreWheels]

Never known the OEM Bosch MAP sensor fail

The occasionally need cleaning

I’m going to try and return the eBay one. The lumpy (lack of) acceleration is annoying.

 

[koalar]

Flyby wire or cable throttle

 

[Yolanda]

Referring back to scanners, in my experience most scanners will work on any car where the OBD2 is concerned. For example, I have an icarsoft MB V2.0 which covers most up to date Merc's modules. When in the OBD mode it works on my Panda and the wife's Corsa. As a lot of us on here know the OBD mode is mostly if not completely emissions related. However, I know there will always be exceptions one of which is that my little MaxiScan OBD2 only tool won't work on the Mercedes.

 

[WyreWheels]

Flyby wire or cable throttle

It’s on a throttle cable.

 

[koalar]

MAP is closed to throttle body on these, and is less of a problem getting oil on them in general

Still worth taking the airbox off and opening the butterfly and shinning a touch in and see if it's flooded with oil


With the engine hot what the long term fuel trims at idle and at 3.5K

With the engine off what the inlet pressure reading
At idle what's the inlet pressure read

 

[WyreWheels]

Got to love a Saturday morning for doing stuff.

The reads for “Inlet Manifold Absolute Pressure” on the reader are:

Cold: Off @ 100kpa, Idle @ 37-39kpa
Hot: Off @ 100kpa, Idle @ 30kpa

Hot Long Term Fuel Trim
Idle @ -10.9%
3500rpm @ +7.8%

 

[koalar]

Got to love a Saturday morning for doing stuff.

The reads for “Inlet Manifold Absolute Pressure” on the reader are:

Cold: Off @ 100kpa, Idle @ 37-39kpa
Hot: Off @ 100kpa, Idle @ 30kpa

Hot Long Term Fuel Trim
Idle @ -10.9%
3500rpm @ +7.8%

Look acceptable

What do the plugs look like

Photo would help

 

[WyreWheels]

Back to it.

Plugs 1 & 4 ( I was scuffing knuckles trying to get the HT leads off 2 & 3).

There is a bit of oil in the recesses where the plugs go, might be something to do with the perished crank breather pipe, rotated to show the bottom of it. Deffo needs a replacement.

 

[WyreWheels]

And this is it with some revving. The hesitation as the accelerator is pressed is very noticeable.