Technical Metallic Rattle

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Technical Metallic Rattle

Backfiring is often connected to air leaks in the exhaust system,
so it may be worth a good look round that.
The backfires and popping from the exhaust were down to timing, there was an electronic ignition in it that gave up so I went back to points, did static timing and that seems to have cured those woes. The backfire through the carb was down to me rushing and pure stupidity! Also, theres a new exhaust with gaskets after going onto it but now that its had a few heat cycles I'll tighten everything up again.

Thanks for the input!
 
There is a plate inside the fan housing that is spot welded to the rear fan section and fixed to the front section by two hex head screws. The spot welds often break away leaving the plate to vibrate.
 
There is a plate inside the fan housing that is spot welded to the rear fan section and fixed to the front section by two hex head screws. The spot welds often break away leaving the plate to vibrate.
You had mentioned that before and to be fair I got sidetracked with timing and clearances ect. I'm going to lift the lid and inspect that next because it sounds like you could be on the money with that plate as the noise is there with the fan belt off.

Thanks Toshi!
 
I'll be going in under it on Tuesday with mirrors and the whole shooting match. It really sounds like its between the fan and carb.
Being that you think that the rattle is between the fan and the carb, if you remove the top cover of the fan shroud you should see a deflector-plate over the top of the fan that guides a certain amount of 'cooling' air over the cylinder head----check that this isn't loose.
 
Being that you think that the rattle is between the fan and the carb, if you remove the top cover of the fan shroud you should see a deflector-plate over the top of the fan that guides a certain amount of 'cooling' air over the cylinder head----check that this isn't loose.
Ive been subconsciously following this thread out of curiosity. And i think you might be onto something.
As soon as he mentioned that it seemed to be coming from between the carb and the fan.. That little deflector pc iirc is welded onto one half, and bolted to the other. Could easily be the source.

Another source, but possibly unlikely is the small defector shroud that diverts the airflow over the lower oil pan. Could be loose, but would likely resonate from below.
 
Hobbler was bang on, the deflector plate came out, looks to me that over time due to fatigue it cracked the whole way across.
Fan looks to be intact so I don't think anything fell in and got chewed up and bounced around.

Going to look at the spare 600 engine I have and see what condition it's in and do a transplant. Think it has a dynamo though 😩

We're going in....
 

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Hobbler was bang on, the deflector plate came out, looks to me that over time due to fatigue it cracked the whole way across.
Fan looks to be intact so I don't think anything fell in and got chewed up and bounced around.

Going to look at the spare 600 engine I have and see what condition it's in and do a transplant. Think it has a dynamo though 😩

We're going in....
Delighted to hear that the source of your rattle has been found, but I cannot take all the credit----Dave (Toshi) also suggested that the cause was the deflector plate. Just goes to prove, eventually the combined brain of the Forum will sort these obscure problems.
 
Delighted to hear that the source of your rattle has been found, but I cannot take all the credit----Dave (Toshi) also suggested that the cause was the deflector plate. Just goes to prove, eventually the combined brain of the Forum will sort these obscure problems.
Sorry Toshi and thanks! Didn't mean to not include you!

I'm delighted in a sense to have solved it, I'm not delighted to have to take the engine out. Looks like it'd be best to take it out and do it at ease.

Found a nice replacement, going to order it tomorrow and at least then my other emge stays complete.
Just hope it's an alternator version! 🤞🤞🤞
 
So that's out, did a bit of jiggery-pokery and got it out as one lump.
Site I had found a housing on couldn't guarantee that it was an alternator version and I don't need to order a heap of them to find the right one so I'm just going to bring this as a whole to a metal fabrication place and see if they can weld and brace it. Forgot to take a picture but it looks to me that whoever was in here last loc-tighted the fan nut on there so I'd say it'd be he'll on earth to get it off.

While it's off a good bit of detergent and minimal water to clean the bay is called for!

Many thanks to all who posted and stuck with me.
 

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So that's out, did a bit of jiggery-pokery and got it out as one lump.
Site I had found a housing on couldn't guarantee that it was an alternator version and I don't need to order a heap of them to find the right one so I'm just going to bring this as a whole to a metal fabrication place and see if they can weld and brace it. Forgot to take a picture but it looks to me that whoever was in here last loc-tighted the fan nut on there so I'd say it'd be he'll on earth to get it off.

While it's off a good bit of detergent and minimal water to clean the bay is called for!

Many thanks to all who posted and stuck with me.
Instead of going through the problems of getting the new 'deflector' welded in (on one side only) why not get captive nuts welded on the INSIDE of all 4 of the securing lugs (of the deflector), bolt it in on the normal 'bolt-on'side, then drill 2 holes in the shroud on the side that the deflector plate is normally welded to, and bolt in that side as well.
 
Instead of going through the problems of getting the new 'deflector' welded in (on one side only) why not get captive nuts welded on the INSIDE of all 4 of the securing lugs (of the deflector), bolt it in on the normal 'bolt-on'side, then drill 2 holes in the shroud on the side that the deflector plate is normally welded to, and bolt in that side as well.
To be honest the way it fatigued I don't think there is a way of nutting and bolting it in, the backside that is welded is intact and still there so at least there is a solid surface to butt weld to, the receiver closest to the block that takes a nut on the alternator side also broke, I have this to I'll see if this too can be welded. I think a welding job is the only way forward until I can secure the correct housing
 
I'll be going in under it on Tuesday with mirrors and the whole shooting match. It really sounds like its between the fan and carb.
Just a thought, timing chain rattle?
Can you hold a long screwdriver on parts of the engine and carefully against your ear to act as a stethoscope?
 
There is nothing to break off the front section that supports the alternator so you should be able to reuse that and just repair or replace the back section.
 
Just a thought, timing chain rattle?
Can you hold a long screwdriver on parts of the engine and carefully against your ear to act as a stethoscope?
download.jpeg

My stethoscope of choice! Not timing chain rattle, after valves that was my second go to...
 
There is nothing to break off the front section that supports the alternator so you should be able to reuse that and just repair or replace the back section.
On the plate, on the bolted side there is a reciever nut closest to the engine, that had snapped away. All the damage was confined to the rear section. I got the whole lot spot welded today, they didn't go too mental with the tig as the metal used isn't super and they were afraid they'd just blow holes through it.
I have a guy here in Ireland having a look at what he has from years ago, he used to restore them but has since semi retired from heavy restoration but he still has some odds n sods.
 
That's her as of tonight. Not running 100% but close enough. Going to do a few miles in it while the weather allows and then do valves again.

Thanks again all!
 

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