Tuning Manifold Pipe Bending
- Thread starter jamiewilson
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Tuning Manifold Pipe Bending
thats identical to the one i had on my car... find it strange it dont fit! mine fitted the 1242 easy
Think they just changed/re-jigged the bends a little. The trick would be to insert small sections into the 2 pipe sections. Best done by your local TIG welder.
A post on http://www.mig-welding.co.uk might turn up someone local.
A post on http://www.mig-welding.co.uk might turn up someone local.
buy a CSC. simples
These are as rare as the punto ones.
Only found one in 6 months on german ebay for £300+
OP
OP
I'd love a CSC one but can't really afford it. Would putting a weld in there at the two pipe bit not be a bit dodgy? Any opinions?
I'd probably rather just get another manifold (that fits!), but i don't know when one will come up within my budget.
Cheers
Jamie
I'd probably rather just get another manifold (that fits!), but i don't know when one will come up within my budget.
Cheers
Jamie
Hows about this suggestion..cut both pipes at the first junctions [half way up in the pic] then cut of the end [where two goes into one] then get a performance exhaust place to remake the middle pipes up [of the correct length to clear the sump ]refit the lambda boss weld the lot back up..far better than welding in a little bit and it wont interupt the flow..
you prob had an older one, they used to fit the 1242 and look almost identical but they differ slightly
How so?
1. If the eld is done properly it'll be as strong as the original metal.
2. If the weld is done and finished properly you'll barely be able to see it.
3. It's an 1108 manifold, not a 1242 one. Performance wise, your guess is as good as mine: I don't think you'll notice much difference over optimum
lengths, etc.
OP
OP
I'm not bothered about the weld strength as i'm sure that would be fine. I don't know much about exhausts so i'm not sure if the flow is better to be turbulant or laminar, but i presumed a smooth flow would be better meaning the least amount of breaks in the pipe would be best.
I agree that remaking the the two pipe bit is probably the best solution but if a decent exhaust place is doing that work then i might just consider a full custom manifold.
Thanks
Jamie
Full customer mani, sounds like it will cost an arm and a leg
Ming
Ming
full custom manifold will be expensive. pipe strength is important on the manifold as there is a lot of weight on it, my supersprint cracked at the lambda boss weld.
btw, the older SS manifold had two lambda bosses. does the new one only have one? i dunno.
btw, the older SS manifold had two lambda bosses. does the new one only have one? i dunno.
The only thing that'll bugger up the flow is excess penetration, which is why it really needs a TIGista, rather than a "exhaust specialist" who wouldn't know back purge from back passage and probably uses mild steel Mig wire to stitch stainless together. A bit harsh, but there are some real cowboys out there.
I think you might be looking at £600 for a one off. The calculations on pipe lengths are all in the A Graham Bell books. The FIRE ones are difficult as they go from ovoid at the port to round. Consider a 4 into 1?
OJZ will probably give you a ballpark quote over the 'phone.
Thsi is what can happen if you dont back purge with argon..Yes I know all about it I ran a fabricating/welding company for many years..
Just so!
Silly (or not) thing is that if you look at the outside of these welds (and this only applies to stainless) they look pretty good (although sometimes you get strange black bits where the oxide manages to re-introduce itself into the weld pool). A lot of places simply don't bother with back purge either because they don't realise it's important (MIG welders! :bang
, or can't be bothered because the customer won't see it. But it's very easy to set up (as a rule) and doesn't cost a lot and really improves the quality of the joint.
Now, titanium is a roit barsteward............
I'm out of gas at the moment. As soon as the yellow one is finished I'll crack on with the plenum.............
