Alan.D said:
Not necessarily, early Mk2s had the hole just blanked off with a plastic cover.
General Looking for some parts... and a kind soul to ship them.
- Thread starter JordyO
- Start date
Currently reading:
General Looking for some parts... and a kind soul to ship them.
Not necessarily, early Mk2s had the hole just blanked off with a plastic cover.
Hammock seats were used in lower spec models (like Splutter) up to 1989, long after the Mk2 came about, so they blanked the hole for the seat pole rather than spend money and do it properly.
Don't have one so I'm out 
salford scheemie said:
No such thing... Panda's were never sold in North America. Mine is originally from Austria
(of note, it also came with a catalytic converter)So it sounds like I'll need a new thermostat. Replacing it will be fun! One question though, what is the proper way to drain/flush the coolant? If/when I do this, I want to make sure the job is done properly!
Also, I've gone ahead and snapped some pics of the HS handle location (but thanks to SS it sounds like this is normal) and the 'black hole'. I'll be picking up the part from Tony, so I probably don't need to show it, but are you guys interested in seeing it anyways so you can all see what I was talking about? Just LMK and I'll post 'er up.
Oh... and to confirm, yes I have the 'hammock' back seat.
Geez.. another question that's pretty off topic. Do any of you recall the Fiat Panda special edition that they made for the 91 (?) World Cup? I was over in Holland on vacation that summer and my father had rented a car. Turned out it was a Panda. I remember it because it was green, had the Italian WC logo all over it, and the hub-caps had a soccer ball pattern. (err.. football..sorry!). Sound familiar to anyone?
It was the 1990 World Cup in Italy, the car was the Italia 90 special edition. They come up for sale on eBay from time to time, usually minus the hubcaps which are like gold dust.
Jordy of course we want pics get em on
BTW the thermostat is easy Steve put on a post a couple of days ago on the exact method (remove the thermostat before flushing but don't put the new one back in till after your flushing is finished or it might get full of crap).
As for the flush I'm sure there isn't a block drain hole, remove top & bottom rad hose put a hose into the bottom of the rad & flush from the bottom a good five minutes or until the water runs clear, try fit something on the bottom hose so it does flush through, then flush from the top hose. Then turn to the block and again flush through the bottom of the block first on the front pipe that goes to the water pump (make sure the heater lever is on full heat) again once the water runs clear flush from the top of the block till it runs clear. I would then flush the matrix seperately but that's up to you.
You can then either fill with water & use rad flush compounds or if your happy enough attach all the hoses back & fill 50/50 water & coolant (after your thermostat has been changed)
When filling again make sure that the heater lever is on full hot and fill to required level, run the engine and whilst its warming squeeze the top & bottom rad hoses to force out any air locks, run till normal temp then switch off (about 10 min, it's better for the engine if you take it for a 10 min run + it will more easilly get rid of any air locks as the rpm will be much higher) turn engine off & wait till it cools then again check the water/coolant level. And hopefully then all in the world will be good
BTW the thermostat is easy Steve put on a post a couple of days ago on the exact method (remove the thermostat before flushing but don't put the new one back in till after your flushing is finished or it might get full of crap).
As for the flush I'm sure there isn't a block drain hole, remove top & bottom rad hose put a hose into the bottom of the rad & flush from the bottom a good five minutes or until the water runs clear, try fit something on the bottom hose so it does flush through, then flush from the top hose. Then turn to the block and again flush through the bottom of the block first on the front pipe that goes to the water pump (make sure the heater lever is on full heat) again once the water runs clear flush from the top of the block till it runs clear. I would then flush the matrix seperately but that's up to you.
You can then either fill with water & use rad flush compounds or if your happy enough attach all the hoses back & fill 50/50 water & coolant (after your thermostat has been changed)
When filling again make sure that the heater lever is on full hot and fill to required level, run the engine and whilst its warming squeeze the top & bottom rad hoses to force out any air locks, run till normal temp then switch off (about 10 min, it's better for the engine if you take it for a 10 min run + it will more easilly get rid of any air locks as the rpm will be much higher) turn engine off & wait till it cools then again check the water/coolant level. And hopefully then all in the world will be good
Sweet... ok, I'm sorting through getting things from Tony so it looks like I'm making progress ...
Here are the pics btw... only two, and they aren't that great, but hopefuly you get the idea.
First is of the 'black hole'. As you can see it's just below the bracket for the lower bar of the hammock, just behind the drivers door.
The other is a picture of the drivers side door so you can see the HS handle locations. For those about to ask (because I know you will!) they grey stuff on the roof is sound deadener. I will be using the car for stereo competitions, so I had to deaden the roof.
... Here are the pics btw... only two, and they aren't that great, but hopefuly you get the idea.
First is of the 'black hole'. As you can see it's just below the bracket for the lower bar of the hammock, just behind the drivers door.
The other is a picture of the drivers side door so you can see the HS handle locations. For those about to ask (because I know you will!) they grey stuff on the roof is sound deadener. I will be using the car for stereo competitions, so I had to deaden the roof.
Attachments
For above the door I'm sure they have square plastic plugs fitted, should only be a couple of pence
