Technical lambda sensor reading

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Technical lambda sensor reading

Accident damaged cars you should look at getting it from. If car body is in good condition chances are it's engine related.
Are the exhausts same between mk1 and 2? If so I have a cat you could have cheap
 
Accident damaged cars you should look at getting it from. If car body is in good condition chances are it's engine related.
Are the exhausts same between mk1 and 2? If so I have a cat you could have cheap

ok mate thanks for the advice, cat wise I dont know tbh maybe sombody else may be able comment (y) just hope it hasnt killed or killing it. (n)
 
Another vid of a warmish start, and how bad it stumbles. I'm convinced the head is not working 4 me, going get a 55s head from scrappy and if that works fingers crossed, one engine will be returned to the seller!

if its the case. of course, if the head is good, i was told that by the seller, then me simply putting another head on wont cure it rite? how ever if it does that means the head now on is bust correct?


warm start

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4EieE7kz5o"]YouTube- DSCF9896.MP4[/nomedia]

that clunking at first start is gear lever clunking side to side.
 
If the engine is choked with fuel it will also do this. You need to test the cheap things first.

Testing the O2 sensor (if only to rule it out as a fault) is cheaper than removing the cylinder head.

An ECU code reader cables is only a few quid of ebay.
 
If the engine is choked with fuel it will also do this. You need to test the cheap things first.

Testing the O2 sensor (if only to rule it out as a fault) is cheaper than removing the cylinder head.

An ECU code reader cables is only a few quid of ebay.

Everything that's cheap to replace, or that control's air/fuel mixture has been replaced and no difference.

I have tried another o2 sensor but it made no difference.

Things replaced. electronic wise.

02 sensor
ect sensor
throttle body
spark plugs
spark plug leads
coil packs
air filter

timing's been tried 4times also using flywheel mark.

vacuum and air lines have been checked also.

compression I haven't checked as the old head didn't do this. It just had a knocking on the camshaft (bearings worn)

only other bad point is I didn't get the head skimmed.

Dave
 
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ive just had a brain wave :doh: I ground the valves in, what if they arnt sealing rite and its losing compression?

It was my first time, dad has done it before but I wanted to have a go.
 
ive just had a brain wave :doh: I ground the valves in, what if they arnt sealing rite and its losing compression?

It was my first time, dad has done it before but I wanted to have a go.

hmm do a compression test on the engine wet and dry and post up the results IIRC a 15% difference should would be bad


on lapping the valves did you clean off all the grind paste after you were done and had a clean constant mark all the way around the valve seat ?

which ECT sensor did you use as the one i gave you didnt have on on it?

Ash
 
hmm do a compression test on the engine wet and dry and post up the results IIRC a 15% difference should would be bad


on lapping the valves did you clean off all the grind paste after you were done and had a clean constant mark all the way around the valve seat ?

which ECT sensor did you use as the one i gave you didnt have on on it?

Ash

Tis a brand new ect sensor, The head was steam cleaned after the valves grinding was done, and we used a marker pen on the valve seats, after turning them 360 degrees the marker pen wore away.

Think i will try get a compression test done tomorrow.

Dave
 
Tis a brand new ect sensor, The head was steam cleaned after the valves grinding was done, and we used a marker pen on the valve seats, after turning them 360 degrees the marker pen wore away.

Think i will try get a compression test done tomorrow.

Dave

Get a tester yourself, Need to do a wet dry!
 
Valves recently lapped in and tested for seating with marker pen (better than engineer's blue) all OK and you still assume its got a compression problem. It unlikely to say the least, but compression testers are cheap enough I suppose.

The symptoms you give are those of the O2 sensor signal not being acted upon by the ECU. Interrogate the ECU fault codes and see what comes up.
 
Valves recently lapped in and tested for seating with marker pen (better than engineer's blue) all OK and you still assume its got a compression problem. It unlikely to say the least, but compression testers are cheap enough I suppose.

The symptoms you give are those of the O2 sensor signal not being acted upon by the ECU. Interrogate the ECU fault codes and see what comes up.

all i know mate is all this trouble started since this head was put on, ecu wise, the reason I asked on here is because the 3 garages I went local to me, 2 didn't have the connector for my ecu, and the 3rd couldn't get a connection.

the battery was disconnect and removed from the car before the work start.

only thing to change is the head itself. I understand were your coming from with the o2 sensor, but ive tried 2 sensor's and both acted the same? only difference if you class it, is if i disconnect the one that's in now when the engine is hot, the engine dips just after its disconnect? but overall no better.

Ecu wise I haven't got a laptop so if i did get the kit and somehow get it going, I wouldn't be able get my pc set up outside. terraced house you see, just main road outside, and walk way at rear.

that's why I was hoping somebody could help read it on here. but nobody ever got back to me.
 
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