Technical Jumpy and jerky running

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Technical Jumpy and jerky running

I wonder if it's worth emailing yani to ask him about this (and/or to add the same functionality that the 8v has...) -- it does seem odd that it's missing.... :confused:

That link doesn't seem to work for me,

But yes I will get their support email and see what yani says and report back - would be handy to have the reading in voltages! :thumbup:
 
Forgot to attach that earlier!

Have contacted support, hope to hear back soon - meanwhile I will continue my on going investigation :D :confused:
 

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Problem is now occurring more and more often, car is becoming quite unpleasant to drive - car started pushing, pulling backward and forwards like God knows what just a minute ago, then poof - eml is on again,

Seems to be using fuel quite rapidly aswell...
 
homeward

Update from MultiEcuScan support and yani, and he has informed me that the 8v and 16v obviously have very different ecu's and they share no similarities - also they do not have any more information regarding the ecu in my car and therefore it looks like no further support for this particular issue, appreciate his communication and hard work though,

Back to my own investigating then
 
i was trying to say last night before my internet died

You can check the preheaters resistance with a multi-meter to see what its showing

Autodata lists it as been 4-11 ohms on pins 3 and 4

Is the 16v the same as the 8v in the sense that you can swap the lambda sensors over?

If so - swap them over see if the code moves
If it doesn't move, yes the post was okay and aint now - i'd be seriously looking at a potential wiring issue

ziggy
 
i was trying to say last night before my internet died

You can check the preheaters resistance with a multi-meter to see what its showing

Autodata lists it as been 4-11 ohms on pins 3 and 4

Is the 16v the same as the 8v in the sense that you can swap the lambda sensors over?

If so - swap them over see if the code moves
If it doesn't move, yes the post was okay and aint now - i'd be seriously looking at a potential wiring issue

ziggy

Ok so that would be pin 3 and 4 on the lambda connector itself?

Yes it is the same in that regard (as you know I previously swapped them before I got my new pre cat lambda - the code disappeared),

The code is for a pre cat (P1135), could the post cat confuse the cat/ecu and throw up this code? (if it was faulty)

I have tried tracing the wire from the lambda - from what I've seen it goes directly to the ecu in a fat cable protector and also heads towards the underside of the fuse box to 2 similar connectors - they are all covered
 
Update from MultiEcuScan support and yani, and he has informed me that the 8v and 16v obviously have very different ecu's and they share no similarities - also they do not have any more information regarding the ecu in my car and therefore it looks like no further support for this particular issue, appreciate his communication and hard work though,

I'm a little surprised at this: as BlueDriver -- which is non-ECU-specific -- can read both lambda voltages by default: which would make me think it's just a generic OBD2 reading.... :confused:

Sorry I never got to fiddle with MES, by the way: not very well; and today will be the first time (fingers crossed) that I'll have driven in nearly a week. :eek:

Thank you for trying, though. (y)

I wonder if Torque, or something similar, could work (with one of the more 'basic' Bluetooth dongles, for example...)? :chin:
 
I'm a little surprised at this: as BlueDriver -- which is non-ECU-specific -- can read both lambda voltages by default: which would make me think it's just a generic OBD2 reading.... :confused:

Sorry I never got to fiddle with MES, by the way: not very well; and today will be the first time (fingers crossed) that I'll have driven in nearly a week. :eek:

Thank you for trying, though. (y)

I wonder if Torque, or something similar, could work (with one of the more 'basic' Bluetooth dongles, for example...)? :chin:

Yes I thought so too...hmmm :confused:

It's fine, I've been busy analysing mes and sorting out my suspension bush's :p

Well Mr Homeward you are psychic - I have just this morning ordered a Bluetooth version of the obd elm 327 (meant to for a while anyway), with the intention of trying the free (and possibly paid) torque app :D

Very good sir ;)
 
Yes I thought so too...hmmm :confused:

It's fine, I've been busy analysing mes and sorting out my suspension bush's :p

Well Mr Homeward you are psychic - I have just this morning ordered a Bluetooth version of the obd elm 327 (meant to for a while anyway), with the intention of trying the free (and possibly paid) torque app :D

Very good sir ;)

:D

And I haven't even had my first espresso of the day...! :eek:

Good luck -- it will be interesting to see if it works! (y)

By the way: with BlueDriver, on the 'Live' screen, the settings let you choose from "All" or "Supported" data sources -- so that, once it's connected to the ECU, you can see which settings are accessible. Select these, and they then appear on a list of "Active" sources.... :cool:
 
:D

And I haven't even had my first espresso of the day...! :eek:

Good luck -- it will be interesting to see if it works! (y)

By the way: with BlueDriver, on the 'Live' screen, the settings let you choose from "All" or "Supported" data sources -- so that, once it's connected to the ECU, you can see which settings are accessible. Select these, and they then appear on a list of "Active" sources.... :cool:

The day is bright then :p

Yes I think it will be! Ok thanks for the help again! Will report back as always :)
 
Did the resistance check with multimeter like Ziggy122 said

- My new lambda which is pre-cat was reading as 4 ohms,

- older lambda which is post-cat was reading 9ohms,

Have swapped em round again now and see what happens,

Btw is 4ohms too low for a new lambda's resistance?
 
Pic of new lambda (was in pre-cat) and older lambda (was in post-cat)

New one is considerably different and a much longer wire

That top one looks like something out of the Tardis to me. Do you have part numbers for either...? :confused:

PS: I think I'd stick with Ziggy's resistance figures, by the way.... :worship:
 
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That top one looks like something out of the Tardis to me. Do you have part numbers for either...? :confused:

PS: I think I'd stick with Ziggy's resistance figures, by the way.... :worship:

The top one is the old lambda which was originally on the car so I don't have a part number for it - the lambda that I have replaced that I suspected to be at fault was the same as the top one aswell

- hmm I just assumed they were the old style lambda, do your lambdas look like any of them?

I think I will stick to them tbh :)
 
do your lambdas look like any of them?

They both look like the thinner one -- but that's because they're new (and from Big Mick: which is where I think you got your new one from, too...). Can't honestly remember what the old ones looked like, to be honest -- all I remember is that looked very original.... :eek:

PS: I wonder if it's the discrepancy in resistance that's part of the problem? (I know the top one sees more 'action' -- but I replaced both, when the top one failed: because I'm paranoid; and expected the bottom one to fail soon, because the first one had. I always like (slightly obsessively, I know...) pairs of parts to be the same spec....) :confused:
 
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They both look like the thinner one -- but that's because they're new (and from Big Mick: which is where I think you got your new one from, too...). Can't honestly remember what the old ones looked like, to be honest -- all I remember is that looked very original.... :eek:

Yeah got my new one from Big Mick - looks totally different to my old one, I'm sure my other one is from the factory!
 
PS: I wonder if it's the discrepancy in resistance that's part of the problem? (I know the top one sees more 'action' -- but I replaced both, when the top one failed: because I'm paranoid; and expected the bottom one to fail soon, because the first one had. I always like (slightly obsessively, I know...) pairs of parts to be the same spec....) :confused:

You could be right there!

That sounds plausible, but thinking about it, is it not be better for the resistance to be higher, therefore the older lambda has a higher or 'better' ohms reading meaning the newer lambda is the fault?

Correct me if that makes no sense or is totally incorrect :D

Would you be leaning towards a second new lambda aswell then to replace the 'tardis' one ;)
 
What type of sensor is it? Does the ecu sense resistance or voltage from the lambda sensor? If it is resistance, it will probably be based on resistance change rather than absolute value. Iirc, it's voltage, so not sure of the value of the resistance measurement.

Edit: ignore me, tired, read back, see you're checking heater resistance now.
 
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