Technical Jump start

[PaulDrage]

Jump started 'the old gal' the other day, only i caught the positive lead on the bodywork when taking the leads off - still hooked up to another battery and hadnt realised for a few seconds while it was arcing/sparking away.

eventually removed the lead from the battery and bodywork, by which point the engine seemingly had stalled.

popped the lead back on and went to go and start it again, but even when the ignition key was out of the barrell the warning lights were on the instrument panel ..

so i have a spare ecu but havent gotten time to fit it yet, but do you think i may of just fried a relay of some sort? i took the starter relay apart but that looks ok, ive checked the fuses etc, but as i say it looks like a relay has become 'stuck' - not expensive, but is a bit time consuming tracing it..

Does anyone else have simmilar experiences?
If you think i should- i will just fit the 'new'/other ecu and be done with it.

P

 

[PaulDrage]

Not even any ideas?
I need to know where the ignition barrell is wired to, but dont have a diagram, any ideas if it is just switch-relay-starter, or is it more complex?

 

[a73uk]

It used to bugger up the diode pack on the alternator resulting in the symptoms you describe on cars that didnt have ECU`s.

I`d change that first.

 

[PaulDrage]

It used to bugger up the diode pack on the alternator resulting in the symptoms you describe on cars that didnt have ECU`s.

I`d change that first.

Ok, just to clarify, would you personally swap the alternator or would you replace this diode? i can see im goin to have to get dirty hands here! i appreciate your help though, thanks!

 

[PaulDrage]

Ok i've got the haynes manual if anyone needs any pages out of it (digitally) pm me and i will send you a copy of that page (pdf or jpeg).

Will see whats fried!

 

[Louie Bee]

Think I have a may still spare Mk2 turbo altanator Pic is still in my gallery but can't remember if it sold on fleebay ages ago



Was working when removed.

it's the same as the Mk1 apart from the end cover has the heat shield.

Although diods are pence to buy, I don't think they are easy to get to

 

[a73uk]

Ok, just to clarify, would you personally swap the alternator or would you replace this diode? i can see im goin to have to get dirty hands here! i appreciate your help though, thanks!

As I`m not 100% it is that, I`d pick up a good used alternator from the breakers/ebay/Louie & bung it on to see if it cures it, if it does you could then get your old one reconditioned & have a new doide pack fitted.

 

[alexGS]

As a73uk says, plus the diodes are definitely not easy to change individually (just confirming that!) and there is also a voltage regulator built into the brush holder, so it could possibly be that. So best to try a second-hand alternator and assume that the engine ECU is OK (the no-charge light really means it has to be the alternator at fault; if the engine runs, the ECU is probably fine.)

Timely reminder to be careful with those jump leads - good thing it wasn't a newer car that got damaged!

-Alex