I am going to change the cambelt on my old Jtd but I only have the long threaded bolt and not the short one that goes in the crank. Any ideas where to get one or what I can use. Plus I guess whilst I am there an alternator belt and aircon belt would be a good idea. Anything else I need to change. Got the cambelt/water pump kit from shop4parts.
I use a regular M8 bolt... about 15-20mm long from memory.
The alternator and aircon belt is a single belt. Mine was a 1270PK6 I think (6 ribs and 1270mm circumference).
To fit it, the best tool you will ever buy is a 15mm aviation spanner, to get leverage on that aux belt tensioner bolt.
SIZE 14X 15MM X 368MM LONG. THIS IS A SINGLE AVIATION SPANNER. EXTRA LONG FLAT RING SPANNER WITH DEEP RING ENDS.
www.ebay.co.uk
Take a photo of the belt run before you start. You can work it out (ribs over the ribbed pulleys, smooth side over the plastic pulleys) but it's easier to copy the photo. I have seen on here, someone who routed the belt over the ribbed pulley backwards and was shredding aux belts.
The water pump is a joy. You need to remove the cam pulley to get access to it. I would advise you to get something to lock the pulley. The JTD kit I bought (Post #7) had a little toothed widget that bolted to the block and "jammed" the pulley so you could break the stiction on the bolt. You need to tighten the bolt up pretty tight to stop the tooth lock from moving.. and the head is aluminium so it's easy to overtighten it too. A kit with the tooth lock in it is a good investment.
Don't be tempted to loosen/tighten the bolt with the pulley being held locked by the cam-belt. Some Neanderthal (actually, what humans came *before* Neanderthals?) had obviously done that on mine.. it can shear the locating key on the back of the pulley, so then it can flop about and you invented "variable valve timing" which you can only discover when you've finished and start the engine.
The water pump requires the TDC sensor to be moved and the bolts holding it might be stuck tight. They're recessed Torx I think. If they're stuck and you use an Allen key you can strip the Torx and the beast will need drilling out. I managed to get a drift and put a notch on the edge and the Gods of the Workshop were with me that day.. I was able to drift it undone... since there's no way on earth to get a drill in there. Get some Torx sockets and save yourself the aggro. Cheap ones will do... you only want to undo a tiny bolt.
The tensioner is a real Mo-Fo without the little doodah to rotate it.. basically because of no room to hold it under tension while you do the bolt up.. so have a cup of tea and swear a lot .. it helps. The timing pointer tends to go slack by about 3-4mm after you rotate the engine, so I ever so slightly overtighten it static, so that the pointer moves towards the hole after you've rotated it.
Before you fit any covers etc. start the motor for just a few seconds... (in neutral, without shoving your face in there etc.) to make sure it starts and the tensioner stays pointing at the hole still after you switch off. Ignore the charging light obviously.. mine beeped at me so loud I thought I'd broken something.
If it's all good...put the beast back together. One of my pulleys was rubbing on the cover, which must have been deformed slightly. I stuck an M8 washer behind it to move the pulley away from the cover. As long as the belt is more or less centred on every pulley it doesn't hurt.
Ralf S.