Technical Is it normal for car engine temperature to go up and down?

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Technical Is it normal for car engine temperature to go up and down?

Time needed to get a warm engine depends on various factors, the obvious one being the engine initial temperature (car in a garage or not, warmth or not), the outside air temp will have some effect by convection (air circulating around the engine) only.
Finally, the load applied to the engine will have a strong impact on the temperature rising time since about 50% of the burnt power is lost in coolant (+ 30%-ish in transmission and exhaust).

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
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So out of curiosity how long should it be taking for the engine to reach operating temperature?

I am guessing its a 4 cylinder petrol?
(Diesels can take a bit longer)

There is a T junction @1km from my car park

With a normal @10'c morning start all cars will show @1/4 temp. Petrols alittle warmer.

I usually say 5 mins of DRIVING to fully warm.
 
Becky, our Panda 1.2 petrol is doing exactly the same Charlie. Gets up to 1/4 quite quickly then just hangs about. Mostly Mrs Jock drives Becky but last week I had her out, just around the town. Mrs J has no idea if it's been like this for a while - I doubt if she even looks at it, ever - Probably needs a new thermostat but I'll see what happens next week when the weather warms up a wee bit.

Look forward to an update.

My diesel was back to normal yesterday :)
 
I am guessing its a 4 cylinder petrol?
(Diesels can take a bit longer)

There is a T junction @1km from my car park

With a normal @10'c morning start all cars will show @1/4 temp. Petrols alittle warmer.

I usually say 5 mins of DRIVING to fully warm.

1.2 petrol which should be the quickest to fully warm definitely need this checked out then since its only driven once a week I can't afford to have it run cold on the rarity it is taken for a good spin :(
 
In essence..its a simple job..

probably 4 small bolts..
Undo hose clip.. disconnect old stat.

Slide new stat onto hose and half.tighten the clip

New gasket on stat. To engine block face. Tighten the 3 or 4 bolts
Tighten hose clip
Refill with coolant.


This basic job is covered in most car sections of the forum.


There may well be additional small hoses/ electrical connections depending on your cars age..and spec.

But..as long as the stat is accessible should only take around an hour.

Charlie
 
Sorry not with the car at the moment and can't check, I don't remember doing so.

Also don't forget there's a discount code for paid up members if you do use S4P
 
Yes.. I find their stuff to a good

price vs quality point.

Do you need to take out the battery for access on the 1.2?


Recommended habit to disconnect the battery when working in the engine bay or on the electrical harness. A falling spanner could make a very bad short and even destroy your car by fire !!

ALWAYS disconnect negative FIRST and reconnect LAST, so when working on the positive pole nothing would happen if you short your tool to the car's body ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
The only ever situation when I saw temperature dropping on the gauge on my tjet was driving downhill on closed throttle (fuel-cut state) in proper frost (-15 / -20 degrees). Otherwise it really ought to get to the proper working temperature. (You may also see it drop momentarily after engine start in half cooled down condition, when the cold coolant from the radiator hits the engine for the first time that has warmer coolant sitting there, but that's about it).

Another thing is that our modern electronic gauges are a bit tricky. Many people think the middle notch is 90 degrees and the actual engine temperature. It is not! When you hook up OBD diagnostics on the side you'd see that the first notch is 50 degrees, the middle one is a mere 70. From that point on, unless overheated, the dial will stay on the middle notch, up to 100+ degrees of actual temperature. Thus, if you see the dial fluctuate the temperature is below 70 and something is broken IMO.
 
Becky, our Panda 1.2 petrol is doing exactly the same Charlie. Gets up to 1/4 quite quickly then just hangs about. Mostly Mrs Jock drives Becky but last week I had her out, just around the town. Mrs J has no idea if it's been like this for a while - I doubt if she even looks at it, ever - Probably needs a new thermostat but I'll see what happens next week when the weather warms up a wee bit.
UPDATE. Well we took "Becky" (1.2 Panda Eco Dynamic) out to our son's house in Midlothian as we were childminding. This is the first time, since buying her last spring and fitting her new cambelt kit, that she's done anything other than running around the town. For this reason I decided to avoid the motorway/dual carriageway, in case of mishap, so we drove through the city and then on out on the A roads - usually we would go out on the A1 and then round on to the A720. Fast aggressive commercial/commuter type traffic. Going out on the old Lasswade road and cutting across to the A7 was really very pleasant but would have been better if it hadn't been raining!

From cold it took a slow 5+ minutes for the temp needle to get up to the 1/4 mark. We live down near Newhaven so there's a climb, in traffic, up to the middle of town. The temp got up to 1/2 whilst we were doing this but going down the South Bridge and then on to the edge of the city it dropped back to the 1/4 mark. It stayed there as we drove towards Lasswade but on the very steep hill out the other side it climbed rapidly back to the 1/2 way mark. Over the top and going down the other side, back it went to the 1/4! where it stayed 'till the end of the journey. Returning in the early evening saw exactly the same story. Slow warm up then 1/4, or thereabouts when just cruising along (40 to 50 mph in the country 20 or, where permitted 30 in town - Edinburgh is heavily 20 mph'd now) with the needle getting up around the 1/2 way mark when pulling up hills. She did get to about 1/3 once when held for 3 changes at busy lights.

The cooling fan seldom runs but I have heard it a couple of times last summer and it activates with MES. So, my conclusion is, new thermostat needed. I really can't see it being anything else. Wish I'd known about it before doing that cam belt, would have been a simple thing to do then. By the way the cooling system was thoroughly flushed when refilling after the Cam belt/water pump jobbie. I'll get one ordered (from S4p) along with the other stuff when I do her spring service. I notice the S4p part seems to include the temperature sensor/sender. Renewing this seems to be sensible to me.

Mr Haynes says to remove the battery and battery tray - presumably including the ECU - to gain access, and when you look at it that could be best? You are hard pressed to see it as it's hiding under this lot!

P1080195.JPG

Mind you Mr H did tell me to remove those parts to allow the coil pack and bracket to be removed prior to dismantling the cam cover - so you can lock the cam - when I did the timing belt. I found you could, fairly easily, strip the coil pack and it's bracket without disturbing the battery or ECU (I'm a great believer in, whenever possible letting "sleeping dogs" - or any other troublesome animals - lie.) Anyway, service due around Easter time so not long to wait.

Also noticed out on the country roads, which is not so noticeable in town, is the fact that she is still pulling, very gently, towards the N/S. The steering wheel is also very very slightly off centre when going straight. I suspect someone has incorrectly set the tracking at some time. Another job for the spring.
Also, although there is no misfire, she has a reluctant hesitant manner when asked to accelerate in higher gears. I suspect, maybe, the Oxygen sensor or mapp? Anyway, lots of fun will be had graphing sensor outputs and comparing readout values - but maybe not until the weather warms up a bit - mind you no point in doing any of this until we can achieve full operating temperature, could be that that's all that's wrong (incorrect fueling due to cold running?)
I have to say though that I enjoyed the experience enormously. We cruised along, very peacefully, at around 50 mph most of the time. I didn't feel the urge to overtake anyone, just "went with the flow". I do like driving this wee car. Even the original fit Fiat stereo (do you call it a "stereo" these days?) proves more than adequate for listening to Radio 4 - with the occasional "foray" into the "pop" world for the youngsters!
 
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Ive never removed the tray from my panda.. so will be just the battery out for access.

Mine seems ok.

Drove our sons newer 1.3 derv today.. took an age to warm.up...FAR worse than my old one..
Took @20 mins of gentle driving to 1/4 :(

But once showing 1/2 stayed there for the remaining 1.5 hrs. Heater output is POOR so I am intrigued by the suggestion that 'midway'on the gauge is no indication of actual water temp ( will have to experiment with MES)

So this is definitely 'to do' :)

The other two.. wait til spring and see.

Just hoping my TA is actaully 'right'..

Find out tomorrow.
 
Been following this for a while. Can only draw from my own experiences and fairly sure that any petrol where the temp gauge is fluctuating and has poor heat output is suffering from a failing thermostat. Sticky or partially stuck open.
Had the exact same symptoms as described on both of my cars and in both cases a new thermostat, system flush and new coolant sorted it.
In the recent cold weather, -8C, both of my cars have attained mid range on gauge within 10 mins max and stayed there. Watching temp on the T-Jet using torque pro, coolant temp of 60C gets to half way on gauge, normal temp is between 77C and 88C. Long periods in slow traffic will see it rise to 98C and fan cuts in. Never seen it drop below 75C once warmed up regardless of ambient temperature.

Cheers

Ben
 
Yes Charlie, that's correct. So if it's dropping below mid way in normal use, something is not right or gauge is broken.
I usually drive with Torque running, less hassle than MES and gives advance warning of any niggles beginning.

Cheers
 
Yes Charlie, that's correct. So if it's dropping below mid way in normal use, something is not right or gauge is broken.
I usually drive with Torque running, less hassle than MES and gives advance warning of any niggles beginning.

Cheers

I am using car scannner on my 1.3jtd and noticed the same gauge behavior. basically the gauge is always in the middle but the actual coolant temp fluctuates around 80C depending on engine load and outside temp. I have it set up that it shows the temp in blue if the engine is below 73C and red if it's above 85 to get my attention before it's too late:p.

Are you by any chance able to get an oil temp reading from torque? I love to have it but it doesn't show up in the sensors for my car (currently running a cheap Chinese knock-off bluetooth ELM327 though:yuck:)
 
You can only get an oil temp reading if there is an oil temp sensor on the engine.
I doubt Fiat spent any money on one of those.

If you can find a coolant temp sensor with the same thread as the sump plug, it may be possible to fit one there and set up a gauge. Real old school.

My Fabia has an oil temp reading.
Coolant got to normal, 90 on the gauge, after arouond 5 mins today. Oil temp took another 5 mins to reach 80, then about the same again to creep up to its 'normal' 95-97.
 
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