Technical Inner CV boot question

[quaffle]

I have a boot torn on the inner part of my CV axle (where it meets the differential gear box). I previously thought that this was a CV joint but I don't think it is... I see that it's a "differential cup".

Should I be replacing this as I change the boot and have the whole drive shaft off?

Is a replacement part even available?

 

[dave]

inner cv joint boot you can just replace the boot

 

[quaffle]

inner cv joint boot you can just replace the boot

It's not worth swapping the tripod roller bearings and stuff while it's apart?

 

[dave]

not if it isnt worn, if Vibration While Driving it could be worn, if none i'd leave it alone inner ones seem to last a lot longer than outer

 

[lpwwe06]

yea replacements are available. i've installed one from new that's originally meant for a vw (if you're talking about the inner cv boot that comes with the metal bracket) fits pretty good, tho I had a struggle of sliding it on the shaft itself. other than that, went perfect.

 

[quaffle]

yea replacements are available. i've installed one from new that's originally meant for a vw (if you're talking about the inner cv boot that comes with the metal bracket) fits pretty good, tho I had a struggle of sliding it on the shaft itself. other than that, went perfect.

Any tips for getting the driveshaft out?

 

[lpwwe06]

Any tips for getting the driveshaft out?

Yea man. If im not mistaken you need a 6mm allen socket to take the 6 bolts out. The tip is to tap the socket into each of the six bolts before you unscrew them so you wont slide the socket off and damage the bolt.

Other than that nothing spcial man. If you need anything else give me a quote

 

[quaffle]

Yea man. If im not mistaken you need a 6mm allen socket to take the 6 bolts out. The tip is to tap the socket into each of the six bolts before you unscrew them so you wont slide the socket off and damage the bolt.

Other than that nothing spcial man. If you need anything else give me a quote

Thanks for the response. Did you undo the swivel hub from the suspension strut mounting (2 bolts)?

 

[lpwwe06]

Thanks for the response. Did you undo the swivel hub from the suspension strut mounting (2 bolts)?

Hey man, idk about the swivel thing (remind me?) I think you mean the ball joint?
Hut the strut 2 bolts I've removed yes.

Ooh make sure you raise both of the wheels of the ground so you dont have to fight the sway-bar tension when removing the strut's 2 bolts.

 

[quaffle]

Hey man, idk about the swivel thing (remind me?) I think you mean the ball joint?
Hut the strut 2 bolts I've removed yes.

Ooh make sure you raise both of the wheels of the ground so you dont have to fight the sway-bar tension when removing the strut's 2 bolts.

By swivel hub I mean the thing the wheel bearing sits in and the tie rod end attaches to and the suspension shock absorber attaches to. Big knuckle of metal. Basically just the "hub".

So, yeah you've answered my question fully. Suspension shock absorber has to be unbolted as well as the tie-rod end.

I'll remember to jack both sides up. That is a top tip.

 

[judderbar]

By swivel hub I mean the thing the wheel bearing sits in and the tie rod end attaches to and the suspension shock absorber attaches to. Big knuckle of metal. Basically just the "hub".

So, yeah you've answered my question fully. Suspension shock absorber has to be unbolted as well as the tie-rod end.

I'll remember to jack both sides up. That is a top tip.

The sway bar will still have a bit of tension on it when you have the wheels off the ground. If you put a long bar thru the large hole of the wishbone you can force the wishbone down to replace the strut bolts. The strut bolts will still be problematic. You will need a screwdriver in one hole first and then work with your bar to get positioned to get a bolt in the other hole. I eventually made a tapered bolt for this job. The second bolt is easy to get in once the first one is in. So I put a screwdriver in one hole then put my tapered bolt in the other hole and then put a good bolt in the screwdriver hole and then replace the tapered bolt with a good bolt.


The strut bolts can be extremely rusted into the hub and the bolts can have lost a considerable amount of metal to rust. If you take your time to avoid snapping the bolt you will save yourself a great deal of trouble trying to get the rusted bolt out of the hole. So work the nut and bolt back and forth a great many times rather than trying to give it a huge force and breaking it and still having it solid in the hub. The strut bolts are 70mm M10 with a special hardness of 10.9 and have a fancy nut and bolt only available as an original part. You are likely to need a new bolt or two and they are not so very expensive from the dealer.

 

[quaffle]

The sway bar will still have a bit of tension on it when you have the wheels off the ground. If you put a long bar thru the large hole of the wishbone you can force the wishbone down to replace the strut bolts. The strut bolts will still be problematic. You will need a screwdriver in one hole first and then work with your bar to get positioned to get a bolt in the other hole. I eventually made a tapered bolt for this job. The second bolt is easy to get in once the first one is in. So I put a screwdriver in one hole then put my tapered bolt in the other hole and then put a good bolt in the screwdriver hole and then replace the tapered bolt with a good bolt.


The strut bolts can be extremely rusted into the hub and the bolts can have lost a considerable amount of metal to rust. If you take your time to avoid snapping the bolt you will save yourself a great deal of trouble trying to get the rusted bolt out of the hole. So work the nut and bolt back and forth a great many times rather than trying to give it a huge force and breaking it and still having it solid in the hub. The strut bolts are 70mm M10 with a special hardness of 10.9 and have a fancy nut and bolt only available as an original part. You are likely to need a new bolt or two and they are not so very expensive from the dealer.

Thank you for taking the time to communicate some tips. I appreciate that as I'm often fighting corrosion.

I actually replaced my suspension shock absorbers just over a year or so ago and used new bots and new nuts from FIAT then. Hopefully, they shouldn't be too difficult to get off a second time.

 

[judderbar]

Thank you for taking the time to communicate some tips. I appreciate that as I'm often fighting corrosion.

I actually replaced my suspension shock absorbers just over a year or so ago and used new bots and new nuts from FIAT then. Hopefully, they shouldn't be too difficult to get off a second time.

Alright. So you have already done most of the hard part. :slayer: