Technical Info on parts

[HandsomeBstard]

Hello Everyone

I purchased a Fiat Panda 1.1 Eco about two months ago and I helped myself to a Haynes manual.

I had a squeeky clutch action and after reading this Forum I found out about the problems with the slave cylinder.

After applying some lithium spray the noise has stopped, but there are no plastic bearing surfaces on the end of the slave cylinder push rod.

Does anyone know where to get these cup and cone parts or do I have to buy a new slave cylinder.

As these are not noted in the Haynes manual does anyone know the part numbers

Thank you in advance

 

[koalar]

The Good news is you have quickly identified the problem. Well done

I suspect some has already changed the slave for the cheapest on eBay which you have to swap the nylon end over and they have forgot.

I have never seen them separately, Although you could by the cheapest second hand and swap them over

You can get for £25.27 for a new slave with end cap, Although you will need some fluid as well, and throw the pipe away.

 

[HandsomeBstard]

The Good news is you have quickly identified the problem. Well done

I suspect some has already changed the slave for the cheapest on eBay which you have to swap the nylon end over and they have forgot.

I have never seen them separately, Although you could by the cheapest second hand and swap them over

You can get for £25.27 for a new slave with end cap, Although you will need some fluid as well, and throw the pipe away.

Okay and thank you for your response. I would be happy to get a slave cylinder with end cap, but how can I get around the missing cup. I have access to a 3D printer and could probably fabricobble something. Hoping that might work. Cheers for your help

 

[koalar]

have I miss remembered how they work. I will have to find an old photo. I thought the cap went straight into a dimple on the release arm

 

[HandsomeBstard]

have I miss remembered how they work. I will have to find an old photo. I thought the cap went straight into a dimple on the release arm

My apologies if I do not know what the hell I am talking about. I thought the slave cylinder rod had a cap and the release lever had a cup. If I am wrong It would not be the first time. Still learning and almost 60.

 

[koalar]

no need to apologise

found an old realise lever, the cap fits directly into here

I have seen slave cylinder sold without the nylon end, which for the sake of less than £0.10 is in my opinion naughty

 

[HandsomeBstard]

Thank you again. I thought it was like a cup and cone. My bad. Will order a new slave cylinder.

 

[koalar]

If you ordered one with a pipe and If the quick release works its already pre bleed. happy days, Couple of bolts. Job done

But nine times out of ten the quick connect will be corroded. Don't force it. It will lead to having a very bad day and a lot of extra work..

follow the instructions in the link above. Bit more work, but far safer and will save you from having a really bad day.

 

[HandsomeBstard]

Have ordered a new slave cylinder and will attempt to change this weekend coming. Depending on weather

 

[DaveMcT]

You will probably need a new master before a new slave. Its also easy to examine the slave - it just pulls apart. Clean, red grease the seals and reassemble.

The bare master is much cheaper than one with pre-filled line and works just the same.

 

[koalar]

lets not over complicate thing

the original poster had diagnosed and proved the diagnoses in post one and only requires a slave cylinder

These car are cheap as chips to run as long as you only change the needed parts to fix the problem

 

[DaveMcT]

lets not over complicate thing

the original poster had diagnosed and proved the diagnoses in post one and only requires a slave cylinder

These car are cheap as chips to run as long as you only change the needed parts to fix the problem

Faulty seals in the slave will leak fluid. Faulty seals in the master leak air into the system but offer no visible evidence.
If the slave is dry its hydraulics are not the problem. It might have other worries (rusted out bleed nipple, bent push rod, whatever).
Slaves almost never leak yet they are always the first to get changed. People think they've solved the problem because bleeding the system removed the air already in the line and all worked fine. Sooner or later, the problem returns and (guess what!) the master is the real culprit.

 

[koalar]

Faulty seals in the slave will leak fluid. Faulty seals in the master leak air into the system but offer no visible evidence.
If the slave is dry its hydraulics are not the problem. It might have other worries (rusted out bleed nipple, bent push rod, whatever).
Slaves almost never leak yet they are always the first to get changed. People think they've solved the problem because bleeding the system removed the air already in the line and all worked fine. Sooner or later, the problem returns and (guess what!) the master is the real culprit.

post one

squeaky clutch

sprayed grease in the slave cylinder

squeak gone

why look elsewhere ?

in fact if you could buy the missing nylon cap they probably would need to change the slave at all

@Decronium has changed the slave only on 3 cars and have changed one I can find another 30 where only the slave was changed and fixed either the pedal sticking down or squeak

 

[DaveMcT]

ER=252742]@Decronium[/USER] has changed the slave only on 3 cars and have changed one I can find another 30 where only the slave was changed and fixed either the pedal sticking down or squeak

Pedals stick down due to air trapped within the system. Air enters via the master seals because they relax as the clutch pushes the system back to its rest position. Changing the slave will always "fix" the pedal sticking sticking down - because air has been bled from the system when the new slave was fitted. But sooner or later the trapped air problem will return.

The easy check is to simply bleed the system. Pedal action will be restored. If it lasts - happy days. If the problem returns, change the master. Even better, change both.

By the way, WIfe's clutch squeaks. New slave (due to rusted bleed nipple) made zero difference. The noise is coming from the clutch operating lever fibre bushes. I oiled the top one but the bottom one is not accessible without opening the clutch. The "good" news is that her clutch is getting heavy so I will soon have the "honour" of fixing the squeak and the clutch.

 

[koalar]

Pedals stick down due to air trapped within the system.

simply not true in 95% of cases, There's loads of examples, on here, both Panda and 500 and on other forums, blogs and websites

the piston jams in the slave cylinder

nothing to do with air in the system.

this one is mine. No other parts required. This one jams in cylinder. If you look carefully at the end of the piston you will see some gouges. If you push the piston down its bore and the spring will not return it.

Its simple enough to diagnose, spray silicone grease as per post one. If it improves there is no reason to change any other parts.

Of course if you can change everything you will always fix the problem