Technical Immobiliser Bypass Help

[Jmj89]

Hi, if anyone can help I'd really appreciate it. I live in my 2000 Ducato 2.8idtd motorhome and been having intermittent problems with the key code and non starts so decided to bypass the immobiliser. I have read lots of threads about it and attempted the bypass today but now the van won't start at all.

Plastic cover of the immobiliser was removed and silicone scraped away. Then the PCB was prized out. I accidentally snapped the single wire from solenoid to PCB off the circuit board when removing the PCB. PCB has been removed and I soldered a new wire from the solenoid to the ign live which was the middle of the 3 wires. The other two wires (KCU and earth) are not connected to anything, although I have tried connecting the earth. When I turn ignition on I can hear the solenoid click and the engine cranks but won't fire. I have checked injectors and fuel is reaching them. There is no Code light at all now either, whether the yellow box is connected or not.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Communicator]

Hi, if anyone can help I'd really appreciate it. I live in my 2000 Ducato 2.8idtd motorhome and been having intermittent problems with the key code and non starts so decided to bypass the immobiliser. I have read lots of threads about it and attempted the bypass today but now the van won't start at all.

Plastic cover of the immobiliser was removed and silicone scraped away. Then the PCB was prized out. I accidentally snapped the single wire from solenoid to PCB off the circuit board when removing the PCB. PCB has been removed and I soldered a new wire from the solenoid to the ign live which was the middle of the 3 wires. The other two wires (KCU and earth) are not connected to anything, although I have tried connecting the earth. When I turn ignition on I can hear the solenoid click and the engine cranks but won't fire. I have checked injectors and fuel is reaching them. There is no Code light at all now either, whether the yellow box is connected or not.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi,
Sorry that I cannot help, other than to confirm that you appear to have done all that is required, except for the unintentional wire snapping.

A diesel engine in sound condition requires air, fuel, and a cranking speed of at least 150 rpm in order to start. If you are satisfied as to fuel reaching the injectors, then perhaps check for rodent damage blocking the air filter?

Perhaps @bugsymike , or @varesecrazy have suggestions to offer?

 

[bugsymike]

Hi, if anyone can help I'd really appreciate it. I live in my 2000 Ducato 2.8idtd motorhome and been having intermittent problems with the key code and non starts so decided to bypass the immobiliser. I have read lots of threads about it and attempted the bypass today but now the van won't start at all.

Plastic cover of the immobiliser was removed and silicone scraped away. Then the PCB was prized out. I accidentally snapped the single wire from solenoid to PCB off the circuit board when removing the PCB. PCB has been removed and I soldered a new wire from the solenoid to the ign live which was the middle of the 3 wires. The other two wires (KCU and earth) are not connected to anything, although I have tried connecting the earth. When I turn ignition on I can hear the solenoid click and the engine cranks but won't fire. I have checked injectors and fuel is reaching them. There is no Code light at all now either, whether the yellow box is connected or not.

Thanks in advance for any help.

If the solenoid clicks when powered up and fuel at injectors, providing nothing else is faulty engine should run.
Do you have any other aftermarket immobiliser/alarm systems on the vehicle?
Either way if a older diesel has compression and fuel at the right time it will start.

 

[varesecrazy]

I had a JTD car that would only clear the immobiliser after around 40 attempts
( routinely.... )

However ,
in the summer if parked in the sun, 20'C cabin would clear the immobiliser 100%

Neither key made a difference

Eventually we realised there was a Click sound when the Immob cleared

It was a secondary factory fuseboard (hidden in the dash..).
On it was just 2 x standard Red Relays

Swapping them over was a 100% fix, swapping back still unreliable

Never had a problem again



When yours was temperamental..
Did neither key make a difference?


Did you spot Any pattern to the non-starts..?

I am trying to ensure that your original fault is not stopping it today..

 

[Jmj89]

Hi,
Sorry that I cannot help, other than to confirm that you appear to have done all that is required, except for the unintentional wire snapping.

A diesel engine in sound condition requires air, fuel, and a cranking speed of at least 150 rpm in order to start. If you are satisfied as to fuel reaching the injectors, then perhaps check for rodent damage blocking the air filter?

Perhaps @bugsymike , or @varesecrazy have suggestions to offer?

Hi, thanks for the reply. This is why it's so frustrating, everything seems to work as it should it just won't fire up. Before I started the bypass this morning, it started and ran fine once or twice so I don't think it's an air blockage.

Interestingly, I have just looked at fuse 18 (fuel pump and I.E) and there is no power to that fuse so that'll be my next area of investigation. Strange that's the case when fuel is coming out the injectors though.

 

[Jmj89]

If the solenoid clicks when powered up and fuel at injectors, providing nothing else is faulty engine should run.
Do you have any other aftermarket immobiliser/alarm systems on the vehicle?
Either way if a older diesel has compression and fuel at the right time it will start.

Hi, thanks for the reply. It was running fine this morning (when it did start) before the bypass. I'm not aware of any other alarm or immobiliser and can't spot anything that'd make me think there is one.

 

[Jmj89]

I had a JTD car that would only clear the immobiliser after around 40 attempts
( routinely.... )

However ,
in the summer if parked in the sun, 20'C cabin would clear the immobiliser 100%

Neither key made a difference

Eventually we realised there was a Click sound when the Immob cleared

It was a secondary factory fuseboard (hidden in the dash..).
On it was just 2 x standard Red Relays

Swapping them over was a 100% fix, swapping back still unreliable

Never had a problem again



When yours was temperamental..
Did neither key make a difference?


Did you spot Any pattern to the non-starts..?

I am trying to ensure that your original fault is not stopping it today..

Hi, that's interesting, as I just posted before your reply that theres no power to the fuel pump fuse.

When it was temperamental there were some odd patterns but they changed often. The red key would usually alternate between no Code light and starts, and code light staying on with no start. The black key would sometimes be fine no matter how many times ign on, code light turns off and will start but if you try and start it a second time the code light stayed on and no start. There were also times when the code light never went off and it took hours of trying. And times when no code light lit up at all with when ign on and it wouldn't start.

 

[bugsymike]

I would slacken the four injector pipe unions, have someone crank the engine and then once clear diesel with no air bubbles comes through an injector retighten that union and move onto the next and repeat.
If all injectors have clean diesel going to them and the engine has good compression and a good battery spinning it over, then it will start.
This time of year unlikely to need any cold start device or assistance.

 

[Communicator]

@Jmj89 , as apoint of interest only, please did you ever clean the connectors at the code receiver under the steering column?

 

[jackwhoo]

Hi,
Can you use a jumper wire from battery + to the cut off solenoid and check for sure hear operation. With you ear near injection pump.
Please use amp meter to see how much current being drawn by the stop solenoid , report back.

J

 

[Jmj89]

@bugsymike thanks, I'll give this a go today.

@Communicator yes I have two connector blocks into yellow box and both were cleaned up.

@jackwhoo I did this yesterday and am 100% sure the solenoid clicks on ignition. I will check amperage and report back, thanks.

 

[Jmj89]

I haven't checked the above yet, but I was convinced it's to do with fuelling. So I took the air filter out and got a mate to spray some easy start while I cranked it and it started! It ran fine while the easy start was being sprayed and as soon as he stopped spraying it died, so definitely a fuelling issue. Is there anything obvious that could have tripped while doing the bypass? I also find it weird that I have no key code light at all, even with yellow box plugged in. I was expecting the light to stay on permanently after bypassing.

 

[varesecrazy]

I haven't checked the above yet, but I was convinced it's to do with fuelling. So I took the air filter out and got a mate to spray some easy start while I cranked it and it started! It ran fine while the easy start was being sprayed and as soon as he stopped spraying it died, so definitely a fuelling issue. Is there anything obvious that could have tripped while doing the bypass? I also find it weird that I have no key code light at all, even with yellow box plugged in. I was expecting the light to stay on permanently after bypassing.

Is there a Fire Prevention "lockout"..?

 

[Jmj89]

Is there a Fire Prevention "lockout"..?

I'm not sure about that, I wouldn't know what or where to look for one.

 

[Jmj89]

It now won't start with easy start. I'm wondering, if the PCB was damaged while it was still connected could it have tripped something.

 

[Communicator]

Is there a Fire Prevention "lockout"..?

I'm not sure about that, I wouldn't know what or where to look for one.

If @varesecrazy is referring to the inertia switch, which cuts the earth connection to the in tank fuel pump. Then on bulkhead near rear end of battery. Press top to reset.

 

[Communicator]

It now won't start with easy start. I'm wondering, if the PCB was damaged while it was still connected could it have tripped something.

Blowing a fuse is a possibility, but I am not aware of anything else that could happen.

 

[varesecrazy]

If @varesecrazy is referring to the inertia switch, which cuts the earth connection to the in tank fuel pump. Then on bulkhead near rear end of battery. Press top to reset.

Thanks,

It goes by several names,

and is Designed to cut the fuel supply..
So an obvious place to look

 

[Jmj89]

Thanks, I tried the inertia switch yesterday and it doesn't seem to have been activated as it would barely pish down. I also disconnected it and no difference made

 

[Communicator]

I haven't checked the above yet, but I was convinced it's to do with fuelling. So I took the air filter out and got a mate to spray some easy start while I cranked it and it started! It ran fine while the easy start was being sprayed and as soon as he stopped spraying it died, so definitely a fuelling issue. Is there anything obvious that could have tripped while doing the bypass? I also find it weird that I have no key code light at all, even with yellow box plugged in. I was expecting the light to stay on permanently after bypassing.

I believe that their are similarities between key code system on the 2.8idTD, and that on the 2.8jtd. The code receiver has a permanent 12V supply, while that to the pump pcb is ignition switched. Unless the code receiver scans for a key 24/7 it has to be started by the ignition supply being received at the pump unit. This unit sends a special code to the code receiver which causes it to interrogate the key. The key responds with its own code, and if it matches one stored in the code receiver, the special code is returned to the pump pcb. The correct code being returned to the pump pcb allows injection by energising the stop solenoid.
If the pump pcb is removed then nothing to start the process? I could have it all wrong, but it makes sense with known facts.