Technical Ideas to get this nut undone

[Ralf S.]

I would just try a different spanner. If you have a 12-sided ring spanner, that ought to give you another half-a-flat you might be able to use, to get the ring onto the nut and still have a few millimeters to turn it a few degrees.

Don't cut the nut off, since if you can't find a way to unscrew it, you won't find a way to screw on its replacement. You need to find a way to access it.

The manifolds are usually attached to the engine before the engine is hoisted into the car from below. Last/only time I had this similar problem, I managed to get a spanner onto the nut from underneath.. but it was a lot of effort, completely out of proportion to the job I was trying to do..

It'll help if you can find someone to hold the spanner onto the nut while you only have to concentrate on trying to unscrew it. If the head comes off the nut, you'll be ducking under the car and out again half a dozen times or more to re-hook it.

Ralf S.

 

[typecastboy]

So I've taken the advice here. Plusgas will be going onto it Thursday night ready for attacking Saturday morning. Hopefully, my funky spanners will turn up by then and I've also ordered a nut splitter as recommended so failing attempts to undo should be released by annihilation. Will report back on Saturday.

 

[jrkitching]

This is an interesting looking toy. Zoom in the picture and take a close look at the pattern on the inside.

There's a lot of good ideas on how to shift awkward fastenings in this thread, some of which I've not seen before. It will be a useful reference point for anyone facing a similar problem in the future.

Given Fiat's track record on corroded fixings, it will likely get visited often.

@typecastboy, it'll be interesting to see how you finally manage to get this pesky thing undone. I hope it's not too much more of a challenge.

 

[varesecrazy]

Dont use a 12 sided socket..
If you unplug the drive square and move around 90'

You are then in the correct position.. but with a 6 sided socket

 

[typecastboy]

Not sure I have any of those. I'll get the damn thing off one way or the other on Saturday.

 

[typecastboy]

So it’s off, well the nut at least. I bought numerous spanners and gadgets, nothing worked. I tried plusgas, heating it, chiselling it, nothing. Just made more of a mess of the nut.

Resorted to a hammer and chisel and broke off the left hand port giving me access with a socket. Got a 14mm socket on it (should be 13) as it was deformed, took some doing but eventually it came off.

The last bottom bolt next to the thermostat then caused problems. Had to take battery and tray out, removed the engine ECU and took off various hoses just to get access to the bolt. The two on that side are bolts rather than nuts. The space was so tight eventually when I was able to get a socket on it the ratchet was only clicking 2 clicks. I eventually managed to move it with one finger, pushing it round until it came right off. Nightmare.

Next problem. All bolts off but it won’t come out as to clear the studs it hits the bulkhead. Reading the haynes manual it says I have to lower the rear and middle exhaust and remove the engine to gearbox mount and the main mount next to the cambelt and drop the engine down so it clears the bulkhead.

Who the hell designs these cars!

 

[chris3234]

So it’s off, well the nut at least. I bought numerous spanners and gadgets, nothing worked. I tried plusgas, heating it, chiselling it, nothing. Just made more of a mess of the nut.

Resorted to a hammer and chisel and broke off the left hand port giving me access with a socket. Got a 14mm socket on it (should be 13) as it was deformed, took some doing but eventually it came off.

The last bottom bolt next to the thermostat then caused problems. Had to take battery and tray out, removed the engine ECU and took off various hoses just to get access to the bolt. The two on that side are bolts rather than nuts. The space was so tight eventually when I was able to get a socket on it the ratchet was only clicking 2 clicks. I eventually managed to move it with one finger, pushing it round until it came right off. Nightmare.

Next problem. All bolts off but it won’t come out as to clear the studs it hits the bulkhead. Reading the haynes manual it says I have to lower the rear and middle exhaust and remove the engine to gearbox mount and the main mount next to the cambelt and drop the engine down so it clears the bulkhead.

Who the hell designs these cars!

Could be worse
Could be a modern range rover where any major work on the engine beyond servicing requires the body to be taken off the chassis

 

[PuntoHowTo]

Could be worse
Could be a modern range rover where any major work on the engine beyond servicing requires the body to be taken off the chassis

The Range Rover has been a Monocoque since 2001 so no separate chassis and you can do very heavy engine work with the engine in place, many do thanks to plastic timing chain guides that disintegrate and wreck top ends

 

[Gina500]

Is there a way to remove the studs ? i.e. are they only long threaded rods that you could unscrew with the help of two counterlocked nuts ? (as suggested in post #4 )
Unless they are "burnt in" so heavily that they won´t move..

In the extreme, break up the old inlet in situ (as you have partially done anyway) to get room for working to extract the studs and then with the new one in, use bolts with a small head, e.g. torx instead of studs and nuts.

 

[dave]

have you manually confirmed where the leak is before removing stuff? get a can of carb and injector cleaner and spray it around where you think the leak is with the engine running, if engine revs change you have found the leak, if no change there is no leak.

 

[chris3234]

The Range Rover has been a Monocoque since 2001 so no separate chassis and you can do very heavy engine work with the engine in place, many do thanks to plastic timing chain guides that disintegrate and wreck top ends

Cars as new as 2008 still have separate body wheels that can be removed possibly newer ones as well

 

[PuntoHowTo]

Cars as new as 2008 still have separate body wheels that can be removed possibly newer ones as well

Aside from not making much sense, “separate body wheels”?? It’s not correct, the L322 was a monocoque so everything is mounted to the body including the suspension engine and all running gear there is no chassis the construction of every range rover since 2001 has be the same construction as your average fiat panda 4x4

 

[chris3234]

Aside from not making much sense, “separate body wheels”?? It’s not correct, the L322 was a monocoque so everything is mounted to the body including the suspension engine and all running gear there is no chassis the construction of every range rover since 2001 has be the same construction as your average fiat panda 4x4

That was a typo
As for it not being possible here's one a them removing the body from a 2007 range rover sport
Saw a 08 one before can't find it now however


So yes it is possible to remove the shell from the chassis and running gear on post 2001 range rovers it may not be possible on the newest ones but is pre 2008 cars
Presumably there's just some sort of mix up with the dates and we got wires crossed here?

https://youtu.be/7GZSuQ8gj9o

 

[PuntoHowTo]

here's one a them removing the body from a 2007 range rover sport

Presumably there's just some sort of mix up with the dates and we got wires crossed here?

The mix up is you’re talking about the Range Rover sport not a “Range Rover”

The sport is a completely different car under the skin.

The Range Rover heritage goes 1970 -1994 classic Range Rover. 1994 - 2001 P38 Range Rover. 2001 -2012 was the L322 and 2012 to present is the L405.

The Range Rover sport is essentially a “Range Rover” branded car, built on the Land Rover Discovery platform.

In essence I was talking about the “Range Rover” and you were also talking about the Range Rover but the sport.

 

[typecastboy]

I’ve bought a stud remover just in case but tomorrow I am going to remove the engine mount and lower the engine, but by bit until there’s enough clearance. It doesn’t seem to be much so hopefully will be ok.

Hoping the new knock sensor comes today so I can replace that whilst the manifold is out.

Hopefully by the end of the day tomorrow it’ll be running fine but I won’t hold my breath.

 

[typecastboy]

Well it’s done. Dropped the engine down a bit by taking off the main engine mount and lowering on trolley jack.

Tricky getting some of the nuts and one of the bolts done up but all back together and all seems to be working. No errors!

Did have a little hiccup when it stalled and ECU briefly takes over every now and again to rectify but it’s virtually ok.

Can’t run for too long as it’s pouring coolant out somewhere, possibly main water pipe, possibly water pump. Hopefully the former as cambelt was done in 2017 so don’t really want to redo it again.

Luckily I had some spare nuts from the last breaker car.

 

[Baglady1990]

Well it’s done. Dropped the engine down a bit by taking off the main engine mount and lowering on trolley jack.

Tricky getting some of the nuts and one of the bolts done up but all back together and all seems to be working. No errors!

Did have a little hiccup when it stalled and ECU briefly takes over every now and again to rectify but it’s virtually ok.

Can’t run for too long as it’s pouring coolant out somewhere, possibly main water pipe, possibly water pump. Hopefully the former as cambelt was done in 2017 so don’t really want to redo it again.

Luckily I had some spare nuts from the last breaker car.

Well done!!! Knew you could do it!! I guess now it’s onto the trouble shooting...!

 

[typecastboy]

Found the leak is coming from the water pump. Had new cambelt in 2017, guess it’ll all have to be done again.

Dodgy speedo too. Bought a replacement but that seems to be equally dodgy.

 

[John202020]

Found the leak is coming from the water pump. Had new cambelt in 2017, guess it’ll all have to be done again.

Dodgy speedo too. Bought a replacement but that seems to be equally dodgy.

Eeek our 09 still has it's original water pump, not replaced at the cam belt change, we've only got Half a car out of two working at mo, Mazda has cooling issue that's going to be a dealer fix and the poor Fiat is missing a light and trashed front end though still drivable though not mot compliant until we gaffer tape the drl in place as a temporary fix, all fixings broken off.

 

[typecastboy]

You can secure them using cable ties very securely. Drill a hole through the mounts and through the plastic turret thing it sits on and it holds them perfectly. I always do that when one lug is broken but have been known to do all three.