Technical How to service the 1.2 Panda

[SB1500]

Just wondering about self-servicing my Panda.

Do any of you self-service your own? Changing the;-

- oil filter
- oil
- air filter
- spark plugs
- cabin filter (does the Panda have one?)
- lights (if necessary)



And for the 1.2 Petrol I have, just wondering how many spark plugs are in it? 3 or 4? Should I use the Catrol Magnatec? The owner before me used Maxol service station stuff?

Or is it worth taking it to Fiat at the grand age of 10 or doing it myself? Personally I don't mind as my local Fiat dealer is friendly and offers a discount as some in the family have bought new cars recently so they're hooking the rest of us in with lower prices!

 

[AB100]

Just wondering about self-servicing my Panda.

Do any of you self-service your own? Changing the;-

- oil filter
- oil
- air filter
- spark plugs
- cabin filter (does the Panda have one?)
- lights (if necessary)



And for the 1.2 Petrol I have, just wondering how many spark plugs are in it? 3 or 4? Should I use the Catrol Magnatec? The owner before me used Maxol service station stuff?

Or is it worth taking it to Fiat at the grand age of 10 or doing it myself? Personally I don't mind as my local Fiat dealer is friendly and offers a discount as some in the family have bought new cars recently so they're hooking the rest of us in with lower prices!

All the things you mention are easy and cheap to do. Ask about oil and you'll get 1000 replies.........I used Valvoline 5W30 synthetic and non-FIAT oil filter. You can do the oil/filter lying down with the car jacked up a bit for access.


Brakes are easy also, generally.

 

[Goudrons]

They are very simple to diy a service.

There is sometimes a little confusion over engine oil as specs change over time and so did Fiat!
Somewhere like http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ should give you a good idea of spec and grades, but generally now they get listed for 5w40 rather than 10w40 as they once did.

You'll also need to check which oil filter is fitted.
They used two, a short fat one and a longer slimmer one.
If yours still has an original, it should have the P/N on it.
Genuine filters are cheap enough on ebay or someone like shop4parts can run your numbers and send out the right parts.

There are four plugs, you need to remove the airbox to get to them (two small bolts.
The ones fitted will have a code on them, so it's worth pulling one out to check it.
A short rubber pipe that fits the end of the plug helps removing and refitting them from the holes.
Plug caps can be a bit tight, so tug the caps and not the wires!
Plug gaps are usually preset to 0.7mm which is correct.

Air filters just clip in.

Only cars with Aircon have cabin filters.
These if fitted are in the back of the heater units.
There is a cover just behind/left of the clutch pedal down by your feet.

Other than checking the fluids, tyres etc check the brakes, particularly the front discs and pads. (rears drums/shoes seem to last forever!)

Also a good poke around the rear axle along with the front and rear springs and shocks, they can all get a bit rusty.

 

[murfman53]

Hi SB1500,

I think you will find that Goudrons has covered alot of bases with self servicing, and some useful tips as well when doing them

The previous owner of the panda that I just bought only last week (my first Panda), found that 5w40 ran better than 10w40, so armed with that info, I follow that idea.

You could bring it to your Fiat guy, but then you don't get to know your own car.................you miss out everything then.
A job worth doing is doing it yourself, that would be me anyway.

Thanks for putting up this thread, as I too will be doing my first service very shortly, and let us know how you get on.
Or, should I really be saying,.................let... ME ...know how you get on!!!
Must put up a LIKES on Goudrons post now.

Thanks to you both.

JOHN.

 

[JD82]

I tend to use Shell 5w40 fully synthetic. It is expensive but the car really seems to like it.

I buy the oil and let my local indie do the service, for what he charges it is not worth getting my hands dirty. Was around £120 including the MOT last time, I provided the oil but he did change the air filter, cleaned the plugs (were only replaced the year before), cleaned the front brakes etc and replaced the rear wiper blade.

I just don't want to ever risk threading the plugs, and an oil change is not practical with no drive, so I always get garages to do my servicing despite the fact I would be capable.

Depending on the service history I would also check:-
- The battery, should be on 12.16v in the morning before the car has been driven. Should be around 14v with the engine running. Mine would be on 12.2v in the mornings, which started the car but would cause the occasional PAS warning light to come on.
- Brake fluid - when was this last changed? Might be worth bleeding the brakes.
- Coolant - again when was this last changed? Regular coolant changes help prevent the head gasket from cracking so is well worth doing. That said mine is still original and 5.5 years old.
Cambelt - The engine is a 8v FIRE which is a none interference design, so the pistons won't slap into the valves if it snaps but you still don'r want the cambelt snapping on the motorway! Personally I am leaving mine for now.

As a routine service I would also clean out the ECU pins, I had a problem with this so my mechanic cleaned the pins and put some damp proof sealer inside it so stop the moisture getting in.

I would also check the back box, seem to be a common problem on the Panda, mine is rusting but not blowing so not too concerned.

 

[murfman53]

I tend to use Shell 5w40 fully synthetic. It is expensive but the car really seems to like it.

I buy the oil and let my local indie do the service, for what he charges it is not worth getting my hands dirty. Was around £120 including the MOT last time, I provided the oil but he did change the air filter, cleaned the plugs (were only replaced the year before), cleaned the front brakes etc and replaced the rear wiper blade.

I just don't want to ever risk threading the plugs, and an oil change is not practical with no drive, so I always get garages to do my servicing despite the fact I would be capable.

Depending on the service history I would also check:-
- The battery, should be on 12.16v in the morning before the car has been driven. Should be around 14v with the engine running. Mine would be on 12.2v in the mornings, which started the car but would cause the occasional PAS warning light to come on.
- Brake fluid - when was this last changed? Might be worth bleeding the brakes.
- Coolant - again when was this last changed? Regular coolant changes help prevent the head gasket from cracking so is well worth doing. That said mine is still original and 5.5 years old.
Cambelt - The engine is a 8v FIRE which is a none interference design, so the pistons won't slap into the valves if it snaps but you still don'r want the cambelt snapping on the motorway! Personally I am leaving mine for now.

As a routine service I would also clean out the ECU pins, I had a problem with this so my mechanic cleaned the pins and put some damp proof sealer inside it so stop the moisture getting in.

I would also check the back box, seem to be a common problem on the Panda, mine is rusting but not blowing so not too concerned.

Hi JD82,

Thanks for your post. Some useful tips and areas to look at when I'm doing my first self service inspection.
My back box will need replacing at sometime, although not bad at the moment, no holes, no blowing out anywhere, but time driving will shorten that.
Much appreciated advice.
Thanks.
John.

 

[JD82]

I meant 12.6v btw, not 12.16, I got that information on an older thread I made on here when I was having running problems with my Panda due to the duff battery.

 

[SB1500]

Moderators, any chance if we make more good progress we could get a Panda section Sticky for the service items, tips and tools for future owners who want to learn this info?

Okay guys, thanks for the amazingly insightful and helpful replies.


So for future reference and other Panda owners on the forum, I wonder if we could get the following going..

Self-Service Shopping List (essential items first / less essential last)
- Oil (Castrol 5W-40 C3 / Or similar spec)
- Oil Filter [CHECK your part number before ordering]
- 4x Spark Plugs [CHECK your part number before ordering]
- Air Filter
- Light Bulbs (if you find yours are blown)
- Wiper Blades (if you find yours are noisy/worn)
- Brake Fluid
- Brake Pads (if yours are worn)
- Coolant

^ So if you can copy this, add or edit what you can add and eventually we'll get there



And finally, this: List of tools you should have in the order of the above to carry out the service yourself. Unfortunately I have no clue, but I think we should all know this so novices like myself don't end up with a driverless car amid oil change etc and don't damage good parts we've bought.

Self-Service Tool Box

-
-
-
-
-
-
-


Also, a tip for anyone like me, there are service kits on eBay that have the essentials at a good price

 

[murfman53]

Hi SB1500,

A very good idea...........................ONE place for all the info.

Self-Service Shopping List (essential items first / less essential last)
- Oil (Castrol 5W-40 C3 / Or similar spec)
- Oil Filter [CHECK your part number before ordering]
- 4x Spark Plugs [CHECK your part number before ordering]
- Air Filter
- Light Bulbs (if you find yours are blown)
- Wiper Blades (if you find yours are noisy/worn)
- Brake Fluid
- Brake Pads (if yours are worn)
- Rear brake shoes (if yours are worn)
- Mount/ring supports for exhaust system. (if yours are worn)
- Auxillary Belts (if yours are worn)
- Coolant.



John.

 

[Goudrons]

Regarding tools.

10mm spanner/socket (removing airbox)

Plug spanner (socket, ratchet and extension work best)

5" of rubber pipe to fit and grip the plugs to remove and fit them.

12mm Allen key/socket for sump plug.

Oil Filter wrench (may or may not need)

Washing up bowl and funnel. (pound shop)

These are the bare minimum to do the oil, filters and plugs.



Some other tools I find handy for more diying:

Basic ODB scan tool.

1/2" drive socket set metric (that has between 10mm and 22mm sockets and perhaps some Allen key sockets between 4mm and 12mm)

Open and ring ended spanners, again metric (8mm to 19mm)

Small 1/4" socket set, yes metric again (4mm to 13mm)

Long Breaker bar.

Oil filter wrench in case it's hard to move (I like the strap or chain ones)

Axle stands and decent jack (trolley or bottle)

Screwdrivers (You can buy those multi bit ones, these usually have a few small allen and torq bits included)

Digital Multimeter.



A few handy odds and sods.

4" clamp (your basic screw up clamp works well for pushing caliper pistons back)

Measuring Jug and large 50-60mm Syringe (perfect for brake fluid)

Hide/Copper Mallet for when things go wrong (only kidding!)

Cable ties (Gods gift to the bodger!)

These don't have to cost you the earth, but be wary of some cheap tools, they don't always work that well (like my Laser 2120 O2 sensor socket!)

There are plenty of used tools floating about on ebay, if they are a decent quality they shouldn't be a problem.
And it's always worth a root around those tool stalls if you get to a market as well or someone elses tool box if they ain't looking (thanks Dad!)

Also Christmas is coming and I always get asked "what you want?"
When I can't think of anything in particular I'll mention certain tools that might come in handy, I'm sad I know!
Though Santa's yet to get that two post lift down the chimney!