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where they just crack the high pressure joins a smidge till they leak, and then crank the engine to allow the air to escape and fuel to **** everywhere, where they gingerly fasten it up
ziggy
Technical Horrible noise from a mk2 JTD
- Thread starter mars103
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Technical Horrible noise from a mk2 JTD
where they just crack the high pressure joins a smidge till they leak, and then crank the engine to allow the air to escape and fuel to **** everywhere, where they gingerly fasten it up
ziggy
That might be the problem not enough fuel shall give it a shot after xmas had to get the bike out in the lovely weather lol much appreicated mate if doesnt work il give you a shout if thats ok many thanks will
Hi all hope had good christmas and have a good new year will this part fir my x reg elx jtd punto http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=201006814890 just theres so many out there its cinfusing lol appreciate the help
Hi mate,
Yes that should fit. By the looks of it its not an OEM spec part, so I cant advise on if its the new modified version or not, so you could ask the seller if it requires the new modified longer bolts or not.
Alan
Yes that should fit. By the looks of it its not an OEM spec part, so I cant advise on if its the new modified version or not, so you could ask the seller if it requires the new modified longer bolts or not.
Alan
Hi mate,
It's not a difficult job.
Jack the car up and support properly. remove drivers side wheel. Remove the under tray and lower access panel.
Remove the auxiliary drive belt. Iirc your jtd has air con so you just have to put a spanner on the nut in the centre of the black idler wheel on the auto tensioner and twist anti clockwise. You won't undo the bolt, but it will move the tensioner away from the crank pulley and release the tension on the belt. You can then simply slip the belt off noting which way it goes around the various pulleys and idlers.
The 4 bolts in the centre of the crank pulley then need undoing. They can be pretty tight. You don't need to undo the large bolt in the centre. The old crank pulley can then be removed. May require a few taps with a mallet.
If your having trouble getting the 4 bolts out without the engine Turning over and no flywheel locking tool, then don't be tempted to stick a socket on the centre bolt. Instead stick the car in 4th with the engine off obviously and get an assistant to put their foot on the brake whilst you undo the bolts.
When refitting make sure the little pin on the crank flange lines up with the little hole in the rear of the crank pulley.
Whilst your at it, check for play in the auto tensioner and the idler wheels and the condition of the aux drive belt and replace as necessary.
Alan
It's not a difficult job.
Jack the car up and support properly. remove drivers side wheel. Remove the under tray and lower access panel.
Remove the auxiliary drive belt. Iirc your jtd has air con so you just have to put a spanner on the nut in the centre of the black idler wheel on the auto tensioner and twist anti clockwise. You won't undo the bolt, but it will move the tensioner away from the crank pulley and release the tension on the belt. You can then simply slip the belt off noting which way it goes around the various pulleys and idlers.
The 4 bolts in the centre of the crank pulley then need undoing. They can be pretty tight. You don't need to undo the large bolt in the centre. The old crank pulley can then be removed. May require a few taps with a mallet.
If your having trouble getting the 4 bolts out without the engine Turning over and no flywheel locking tool, then don't be tempted to stick a socket on the centre bolt. Instead stick the car in 4th with the engine off obviously and get an assistant to put their foot on the brake whilst you undo the bolts.
When refitting make sure the little pin on the crank flange lines up with the little hole in the rear of the crank pulley.
Whilst your at it, check for play in the auto tensioner and the idler wheels and the condition of the aux drive belt and replace as necessary.
Alan
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is that a quality part? the one in the photo has a bit missing out of it
see how much a local factor would charge for this part in case it ever goes wrong rather than internet
see how much a local factor would charge for this part in case it ever goes wrong rather than internet
Hi mate,
Glad you sorted the aux pulley
Whats up with the power steering? Is it just the light on? or does the EPS not offer any assistance?
Unfortunately you cant really just tweak the wastegate like you used to be able to on the older dervs.
There are plug in tuning boxes that you can buy that will give you a bit more umph. The early ones used to be a bit dodgy but modern ones seem safer and more reliable.
The best way is a remap though, these JTD's really respond well and are well under tuned from the factory. The standard internals and turbo are good for a lot more power than they come with. A few of us on here had ours at around 150BHp and lots of torque. However I understand you dont want to go down this route.
The JTD is actually a pretty quick car in standard form, so if you think its feeling a bit sluggish, then try unplugging your MAF sensor and going for a drive. If it feels more powerful then this could well be your problem. Its a common failure and as its often a gradual degradation you dont always notice a sudden loss of power, it just seems to get less powerful over time.
Alan
Glad you sorted the aux pulley
Whats up with the power steering? Is it just the light on? or does the EPS not offer any assistance?
Unfortunately you cant really just tweak the wastegate like you used to be able to on the older dervs.
There are plug in tuning boxes that you can buy that will give you a bit more umph. The early ones used to be a bit dodgy but modern ones seem safer and more reliable.
The best way is a remap though, these JTD's really respond well and are well under tuned from the factory. The standard internals and turbo are good for a lot more power than they come with. A few of us on here had ours at around 150BHp and lots of torque. However I understand you dont want to go down this route.
The JTD is actually a pretty quick car in standard form, so if you think its feeling a bit sluggish, then try unplugging your MAF sensor and going for a drive. If it feels more powerful then this could well be your problem. Its a common failure and as its often a gradual degradation you dont always notice a sudden loss of power, it just seems to get less powerful over time.
Alan
Hi mate,
Glad your getting there!! It's safe to drive around with it disconnected, but ultimately (and for even better performance and MPG) it's best to replace the MAF sensor. Shop around when buying one. Try and stick to Bosch or similar, as some of the cheap generic ones can actually be worse than your failed one straight out of the box! It's dead easy to change, there is a guide in the punto mk2/2b section on removing/replacing the MAF.
Alan
Glad your getting there!! It's safe to drive around with it disconnected, but ultimately (and for even better performance and MPG) it's best to replace the MAF sensor. Shop around when buying one. Try and stick to Bosch or similar, as some of the cheap generic ones can actually be worse than your failed one straight out of the box! It's dead easy to change, there is a guide in the punto mk2/2b section on removing/replacing the MAF.
Alan
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Yes and No
What voltage are you getting with the engine running at the battery terminals?
Ziggy
look down back of engine and you will find it,
has the battery been tested?
you seem to be ignoring previous good advice given here,