General hired hands? fitting an alternator???

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General hired hands? fitting an alternator???

hi Andi 1985,

WHY?

I changed mine recently (twice)on a 900, max time 20 to 30 mins depending upon how much Tea you drink during.
Mine was 2 fixing bolts, one electrical nut/washer and one plug in connector.
Bottom bolt is difficult to feel / see / undo as it's in a tight location just beneath the top bolt. I think it;s a 17mm socket and feel where it is.

I did disconnect the battery too - as per workshop manual on any job: :)
To remove rediator - step 1 disconnect battery
To change plugs - step 1 disconnect battery
To clean ashtray - step 1 disconnect battery

Both were done in the evenings one front grass and with a torch.

I'm in Chesterfield on rare occasions and had a few good Curries at the Kaash Tandoori.

What's wrong with the alternator? if you have a look at my thread "is my alternator dead" it will give ideas on how to check if it is actually stuffed.

Merry Christmas,

Paul
 
the Alternator is fairly simple job on a 1108cc engine. You need a decent jack, some axle stands, some bricks and wood to sit the sump on (I wouldn't trust a jack to hold the engine up as it's possible you could be messing about for a long time) & I'd go for a 3/8" socket set with a large selection universal joints and extension bars and a decent torque wrench.

Just disconnect the batter, jack the car up and remove the drivers side front wheel then arch liner. I would then support the engine on a jack and unbolt the engine mount letting the engine drop a few inches before supporting it on the bricks and wood. Then disconnect the electrical bits from the back of the alt. Alacken all the mount nuts and bolts & pull the alt hard into the engine block and release the belt. Now remove the alt from its mounting completely and maneuver out though the wheel arch.

Install is the reverse of removal except check the tension of the alt belt, you should have 1 to 2 cm of movement on the belt with reasonable finger pressure. Be sure to work to all torque settings, especially on the engine mount, it seems quite easy to strip the thread on that one.
 
Totally serious, it took me about 30min first time then swore like the devil as I stripped the thread on my engine mount.
 
I did the alternator on my Sporting without dropping the engine.

It took an hour or so, required a lot of swearing but wasnt too difficult
 
Being honest my engine mount problem seemed to be more an issue with the last time the engine was dropped and over tightened or cross threadded.

I've done it both ways and all in all it's quicker and easier to drop the engine than do the alt without dropping the engine, and if fiat blessed you with a longer pivot bolt, iirc, for your alternataor you have no option but to drop the engine.
 
hi guys im at work at the moment lol got some time to kill lol, Yeah i dont really fancy undoing the engine mount as Gobe said the old "Cross therd" thing i cant afford for that to happen so any ideas? is it ALOT harder to do it with out the lowering of the engine?
 
awww where abouts in chesterfield i live in hasland lol if you see a little red box driving around its proably me lol ooooo fix my car and ill fix urs lol whats wrong with it?
 
yep, done it several times and never dropped the engine.

the bolt behind the mount won't actually come out, but it does unbolt from the alternator fine.

On mine you need 19mm (wheel), 8mm (arch liner), 16mm and 17mm (alternator mounting spanners.

The actual wiring on the alternator, i can't remember the sizes, something like 10mm and 8mm??

It's one of the easier jobs to do...take your time and you can't go wrong :)

Kristian
 
yep, done it several times and never dropped the engine.
I know one time you didn't ;), When we dropped the 1.2 16v engine there was about a turn of thread left in the bracket and the bolt up against the engine mount. Now when this happens the easiest solution for me is to drop the engine about 5cm to gain access to the small nut on the studding rather than work around coolant tank.
 
I know one time you didn't ;), When we dropped the 1.2 16v engine there was about a turn of thread left in the bracket and the bolt up against the engine mount. Now when this happens the easiest solution for me is to drop the engine about 5cm to gain access to the small nut on the studding rather than work around coolant tank.

Indeed, I have had the alt out several times and even discussed with gobe when we were removing mine.... i was saying we could get it out before dropping it.....

could we fook lol

I don't know why. All i can think is when i put the 16v in i used a different bolt before i put the mount back as on because that was NOT coming out! I often do that though (using different bolts). I did have a big selection of parts, and if a bolt wasn't handy i'd try another.

Ah well, still pretty easy to do regardless :)

Kristian
 
Except for the fact we had 2 alt bolts which where both internal and external drive maybe they were on the other way round originally? :confused:

My other thought is that there is some play in the engine mount its self when you bolt the engine on and the 1242 unit was pulled forward compared to the 1108 so there wasn't quite as much clearence. It was damn close to being out.
 
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