Technical  Heater matrix

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Technical  Heater matrix

New hose has arrived and has a oring seal inside. Will fit to van when i can and hopfully have a postive update when done. New head gasket was fitted this time last year along with water pump & belt, 2 new injectors, set of glow plugs, new exhuast inlet and new valves. It only went to them as 2 injectors had failed and was seized and they are the garags everyone eles uses for seized injectors. Garage that done all that work are the ones that checked everything over saying it looks like heater matric and everthing eles was working as should be pipe come off on the way home from there!!!
 
New hose has arrived and has a oring seal inside. Will fit to van when i can and hopfully have a postive update when done. New head gasket was fitted this time last year along with water pump & belt, 2 new injectors, set of glow plugs, new exhuast inlet and new valves. It only went to them as 2 injectors had failed and was seized and they are the garags everyone eles uses for seized injectors. Garage that done all that work are the ones that checked everything over saying it looks like heater matric and everthing eles was working as should be pipe come off on the way home from there!!!
Put some lube on the hose before pushing it on to save the new O ring.:)
 
Id disconnect the heater matrix hoses in the engine bay and stick a garden hose in one side at a time to see if water comes out of the other one.
Id also disconnect the smaller coolant hoses and check they are not blocked as already suggested. If its a 2.3 you have one that goes to the top of the radiator by the left headlamp, then one near the back of the engine on by the cam cover/ PAS reservoir side.
The one heater hose has a bleed valve in it you should open to allow the air out the system when filling it back up with coolant.
 
Id disconnect the heater matrix hoses in the engine bay and stick a garden hose in one side at a time to see if water comes out of the other one.
Id also disconnect the smaller coolant hoses and check they are not blocked as already suggested. If its a 2.3 you have one that goes to the top of the radiator by the left headlamp, then one near the back of the engine on by the cam cover/ PAS reservoir side.
The one heater hose has a bleed valve in it you should open to allow the air out the system when filling it back up with coolant.
Yes got the 2.3 as you look at heater matrix hose from engine left hose(drivers side) is hot other side with bleed screw is cold. Had tried bleeding and nothing worked. This is all before hose come off from top rad
 
Yes got the 2.3 as you look at heater matrix hose from engine left hose(drivers side) is hot other side with bleed screw is cold. Had tried bleeding and nothing worked. This is all before hose come off from top rad
With engine not running and cold-The coolant level in the expansion tank has to be higher than the bleed screw to get any flow out of bleed screw.

Check both small tubes to expansion tank completely unobstructed-can be blown through.

Be very very careful the bleed screw when hot will seal even when loosened ,until a point where an burst of scalding coolant erupts under great force. Do not loosen bleed screw when engine hot.
The header tank cap is similar do not loosen when hot.
 
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With engine not running and cold-The coolant level in the expansion tank has to be higher than the bleed screw to get any flow out of bleed screw.

Check both small tubes to expansion tank completely unobstructed-can be blown through.

Be very very careful the bleed screw when hot will seal even when loosened ,until a point where an burst of scalding coolant erupts under great force. Do not loosen bleed screw when engine hot.
The header tank cap is similar do not loosen when hot.
Both small tubes are clear. New hose has been re connected. No coolant leak when topped up. Got to a constant flow from the bleed screw. Will leave over night now and check again tomorrow before starting van and get it up to working temp. Fingers crossed!
 
Great , no need to wait until tomorrow unless you wish too. Start up , warm up fully then leave over night and check when cold tomorrow morning.
 
Started van today. Temp gauage got up to half way. Expansion tank started to fill up above max level then coolant started to come out from the cap. Have turned engine off. Atleast pipe didnt blow off like other day. Pipe to matrix was hot & pipe with bleed screw seemed to gain a little warmth. The smaller van on passenger side never come on. This all took about 30-40mins to happen from cold.
 
Pipes to and from heater matrix normally are very similar temperatures.
Someone suggested disconnecting both heater pipes and connecting a hose to matrix to see if it flows - good idea
 
I am surprised to see a bit of "old school" style rust staining in the photos. With modern vehicles and antifreeze formulations, very little corrosion should take place. Has it ever been run with plain water ?

The maximum cooling system pressure is governed by the pressure relief valve in the expansion tank, and hoses and their connections should be easily able to withstand that pressure. Is the hose coupling faulty ? Was there a rise in pressure so sudden that the expansion tank couldn't keep up ?

The main reason for changing a heater matrix (long job) is a leak, which is obvious from damp patches, a characteristic antifreeze smell in the cab and a greasy film forming on the inside of the windscreen. The other reason is blockage from sludge, which is rare these days if the antifreeze is maintained.

No heat is more likely due to an air/vapour lock, possibly due to a fault elsewhere. Another less likely possibility is a fault with the air distribution system in the cab. The heater matrix runs all the time (flow and return hoses should be hot), the hot air is just shunted out if you select cold.

Don't place too much reliance on the temperature gauge reading. The software is coded to show exactly centre scale for anything within an acceptable range, say 80 to 100 degrees C
 
I am surprised to see a bit of "old school" style rust staining in the photos. With modern vehicles and antifreeze formulations, very little corrosion should take place. Has it ever been run with plain water ?

The maximum cooling system pressure is governed by the pressure relief valve in the expansion tank, and hoses and their connections should be easily able to withstand that pressure. Is the hose coupling faulty ? Was there a rise in pressure so sudden that the expansion tank couldn't keep up ?

The main reason for changing a heater matrix (long job) is a leak, which is obvious from damp patches, a characteristic antifreeze smell in the cab and a greasy film forming on the inside of the windscreen. The other reason is blockage from sludge, which is rare these days if the antifreeze is maintained.

No heat is more likely due to an air/vapour lock, possibly due to a fault elsewhere. Another less likely possibility is a fault with the air distribution system in the cab. The heater matrix runs all the time (flow and return hoses should be hot), the hot air is just shunted out if you select cold.

Don't place too much reliance on the temperature gauge reading. The software is coded to show exactly centre scale for anything within an acceptable range, say 80 to 100 degrees C
Hose with the bleed screw is cold other hose is hot.
 
Does the small hose from engine to header tank get hot?
 
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