Technical Heated rear window - demister tab repair?

[MikeySkiBoy]

Hi folks.

Does anyone have any fabulous suggestions on how to stick back on the heated rear window demister tab that I have managed to knock off at one side of the window?

There seems to be kits available in the USA for such a job, but not such a thing here. Only thing I can find is conductive paint for repairing damaged tracks, but the job really needs something like a conductive glue.

Failing that, is it possible to resolder the tab back on?

As ever, any thoughts/suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Mike.

 

[HP]

Use rear view mirror glue to stick the tab back on the screen, then put conductive paint from there back to the strips on the screen.

 

[MikeySkiBoy]

Ta Pete. I'll try giving that a go.

 

[varesecrazy]

Use rear view mirror glue to stick the tab back on the screen, then put conductive paint from there back to the strips on the screen.

You can get 'Silvered Epoxy' conductive glue also..but the screen glue is probobly a more durable bond..

Charlie

 

[MikeySkiBoy]

Update......

I wasn't sure if there was enough of a flat area on the tab feet for mirror glue to work its magic. After a bit of further research, two tiny blobs of Gorilla Super Glue were applied to the two wee bits of the tab that still had the bits strip that they lifted from the window on them. These tiny blobs allowed the tab to be neatly and securely fixed back to the window and there was no excess glue to remove, or to get in the way of the heater strip and the tab.

I was then waiting for a 10 ml tube of Bare Conductive Electric Paint to arrive (£5.38 from CPC - March 2016) - Bare Conductive is the company name and Electric Paint is the product name. This seemed ideal for the task and was going to be painted across the hearter strip and the now glued on tab, restoring the circuit.

This hasn't happened yet and is now unlikely to because I have just arranged with my dealer to purchase a new Panda MTJ 4x4 and my baby will be leaving home very shortly.

I am absolutely convinced that this would have worked. The only thing to be aware of is that the conductive paint should NOT make any contact with the metalwork of the door frame. If in any doubt, apply some masking tape to the frame and then carefully remove it shortly after the paint has been applied.