Technical Head gasket sporting

[stuartbat]

Okay guys going to be doing my head gasket on my mk 1 sporting 1.2 16v. (burning oil and water and never getting hot, oil leaking at back of engine )
What i want to know is there a how 2 for the 16v engine?
Also do i really need all the special tools? Or can i do without them by marking up the head and crank.
I am not a noob when it comes to playing with cars recently did a head gasket on a 1.0L 12v corsa

What is the head tightening sequence and what should they be torqued up to and then turned a further what degres?

Thanks in advance guys


stuart

 

[arc]

You need Ribe bits the get the cam carriers and the head off.
You need the cam lock tools to be able to time the engine up again afterwards.

When you take the head off, all the valve gear will fall out - need to be creative in catching that.

sequence is just what you'd expect, start in the middle and move outwards in sequence.

I *think* torque values will be 45nm, then 90 deg, then 90 deg - but i might be wrong. Someone else will know more for ya.

 

[thefallenangel]

cam locking tools can be 10mm allen keys. 3 equal lengths of bar for lining up the engine. Not done the head gasket on mine but i did cambelt.

 

[simondhopkins]

You need Ribe bits the get the cam carriers and the head off.
You need the cam lock tools to be able to time the engine up again afterwards.

When you take the head off, all the valve gear will fall out - need to be creative in catching that.

sequence is just what you'd expect, start in the middle and move outwards in sequence.

I *think* torque values will be 45nm, then 90 deg, then 90 deg - but i might be wrong. Someone else will know more for ya.

This is what the Fiat DTE says for the 1.2 16v
Cylinder head - Bolt - M9x1.25 30nm+90deg+90deg

 

[stuartbat]

When you take the head off, all the valve gear will fall out - need to be creative in catching that

Ekk what does tjis mean and
How do i keep it all in whem putting back together?

 

[stuartbat]

double post sorry

 

[Liquidh2o]

Ekk what does tjis mean and
How do i keep it all in whem putting back together?

to keep it all in when taking the head off there is a special tool, which consists of two metal strips you have to put in between the head and the block before you lift it off. Its pretty self explanitory when you look at the pictures in the haynes manual.

 

[stuartbat]

the haynes manual i have is for a mk 2 will the engine stuff be exacrly the same for the 16 v as a mk 1 book?

 

[nedge2k]

That's not the head, that's the rocker cover - it's a big beastie on the 16v but yeah, haynes manual gives you measurements for the tools needed to stop the followers coming out and dimensions for the cam locking tool - it's doesnt say which thread it is (you screw it in) but if I remember tomorrow I'll check it on my thread gauge - iirc, it was a fine metric thread.

Oh and supposedly you NEED the cam locking tool as the cam pulley has to be loose when re-fitting the belt - fallenangel, where are you sticking that allen key?

 

[Moosey]

Headbolt tightening sequence:

8,6,2,5,10
7,3,1,4,9

Headbolt torque:

Stage 1: 20nm
Stage 2: 30nm
Stage 3: 90 degrees
Stage 4: 90 degrees

You'll need an M8 Ribe to remove the cam box, and an M10 Ribe for the headbolts. You need cam locking tools, piston level indicators, cam pulley holder, torque angle gauge, tensioner wrench, probably some other stuff i've forgotten.

The hydraulic tappets will fall out when you pull the cam box. Not really a problem. I cover them in assembly lube (Permatex) when reinstalling and it holds them in place fine.

You should get the head skimmed, which will require removing all the valves, so you'll need a valve spring compressor too.

 

[nedge2k]

My god, you have "proper" tools! I hate you

Great pics and info

 

[Moosey]

My god, you have "proper" tools! I hate you

Great pics and info

Used from eBay. No tensioner tool though as it was broke when i bought it. Handbrake spring puller works better anyway.

Oh yeah, make sure the locator dimple on the crank pulley is to the LEFT of the bolt, that ensures that the pistons are on the correct stroke when lined up.

I can provide more detailed instructions and pics if you guys want.

 

[nedge2k]

Sure, always good to have something to refer back too, especially if you haven't done one before!

 

[dave]

any chance this can be made into a guide and put in the guides, so its easier for people to find in future? thanks

 

[flisko]

Headbolt tightening sequence:

8,6,2,5,10
7,3,1,4,9

Headbolt torque:

Stage 1: 20nm
Stage 2: 30nm
Stage 3: 90 degrees
Stage 4: 90 degrees

You'll need an M8 Ribe to remove the cam box, and an M10 Ribe for the headbolts. You need cam locking tools, piston level indicators, cam pulley holder, torque angle gauge, tensioner wrench, probably some other stuff i've forgotten.

The hydraulic tappets will fall out when you pull the cam box. Not really a problem. I cover them in assembly lube (Permatex) when reinstalling and it holds them in place fine.

You should get the head skimmed, which will require removing all the valves, so you'll need a valve spring compressor too.

valves dont need to be removed in order to skim the head

 

[varesecrazy]

any chance this can be made into a guide and put in the guides, so its easier for people to find in future? thanks

remarkably similar to the old 12 Valve Bravo/a

 

[MrDerv]

I am not a noob when it comes to playing with cars recently did a head gasket on a 1.0L 12v corsa

If that was the chain driven cam, you're a brave man!!

I did one once, vowed never again!!

Edit, i now realize this is a 6 year old thread DOH!