That tests fine and I tried swapping it around but no difference, either screeching from starter area, or starts fine or nothing, one thing I noticed is when the car is started the battery voltage is 13.8v or 14.2v which can’t be right
I’ve checked the relay and even swapped it round with a different one that was the same, the screeching noise is coming from the starter area for sure, sometimes the battery voltage is 14.2v when car is started which don’t seem right to me but I don’t know if that would cause the issue, I need to figure out why that is and if it’s related to that
I’ll need to check the wiring on the starter to see if it’s been done correctly, I don’t think the starter even had a issue as old one tests ok with 12v, I tested the old solenoid and starter and both worked. Do you know where the wiring for the starter goes from to the starter ? Also I noticed on the other post people was saying there’s meant to be 3 wires going to the starter but from the video I saw there’s only 2 but in the topic they was sure there’s meant to be 3 wires.
yh i think it is grounded via the chassis, in the other topic they was convinced there is a 3rd wire i think they said from the alternator but from what i saw so far online and pictures of starters on ebay that still have the wires, there is only 2 wires, do you know where the wires go to from the starter, the 2 wires where they go to and where does the ignition wire go to?
A car battery voltage can range anywhere from 12.2 to 14.5 volts. With the engine off, a healthy, fully charged car battery should measure around 12.6 volts. This is known as "resting voltage". When the engine is running, the alternator should be charging the battery so battery voltage will typically rise to between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.
Just because you hear a noise from somewhere it doesn't necessarily mean that it's the primary source of the problem. If the drive belt isn't turning then it would be prudent to check it for cracks or glazing. If the belt itself is fine then check the tensioner and accessory pulleys. One of the engine accessories may have seized up or the tensioner may have failed or requires adjustment. Remove the drive belt and test if the car consistently starts without it (don't drive the car, just try to start it). If it starts without the drive belt, turn off the engine and try spinning the pulleys by hand. You should be able to spin all of the pulleys by hand bar the crank pulley. If any accessory pulley won't spin by hand then it could be seized and it may be time to replace that pulley. If the accessory pulleys all spin freely then check that the tensioner itself isn't worn and aligns with the pulleys.
Exactly which relay did you check and how?
I just swapped the relay around for a good one, I manage to figure out I think why the starter making screeching noise, GSF car parts gave us wrong starter, original starter had 10 teeth and the one they gave based on the part number on the box only has 9 teeth, I don’t know if replacing the starter motor to the correct one will fix the issue, maybe I just had a ground issue and now I got just a wrong starter issue, I don’t know if the flywheel is messed up now, gsf car parts partially to blame then then the garage who diagnosed the issue as old starter tests ok, I need to replace starter and check flywheel and see what happens
Yh thanks for the help, it’s just crazy that first it’s diagnosed wrong by 2 garages, as it wasn’t the starter in the first place, then end up with the wrong starter by GSF and the garage had it for 2 days and couldn’t figure that out. I don’t understand how on earth these garages even run a business.
Yh today I had a choice today between going under the fiat or change the pads on my car, my car was still drivable, just the pads was low so I chose to do my car rather than getting under cars, slightly raining on and off so wasn’t ideal to mess around under cars.
I couldn't agree more. I've noticed another trend where some garages are redefining what a service means. Many now just change the oil and oil filter and merely check everything else. If they find something, it's extra cost. Call me old school but when I service the car at a minimum I'm changing the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs and wipers. Often I'll go over and beyond by also changing the coolant, cabin filter, and fuel filter (if applicable). The amount I've save in labour charges more than covers the cost of these parts and online retailers now offer service part packages at reasonable prices.
Looking at that list you've done a good deal more than many home mechanics so fair play to you.
Agree. There are some MOT centres that take the minimum approach too, passing anything because they don't want to fix issues on cheap cars, or don't want to have to book someone back in later.
I would go further and insist that MOT centres focus only on MOTs. Allowing standard garages to run MOTs encourages malpractice because they can use the MOT as a means of drumming up further business. The owner of the vehicle is then placed under pressure to get the "repairs" done there within 7 days in order to qualify for a free MOT re-test. Recently my elderly aunt took her 4-year-old VW for an MOT. This car is a mint, low mileage example that is extremely well maintained. The garage she went to failed it on multiple counts. As I suspected foul play, I took the car to a dedicated MOT centre. They passed it with no advisories.
