Glopsy.JPG

Multipla Glopsy

Introduction

Here's my new Multi,pictured on the day I picked her up, resplendent in what looks like a years worth of road grime :rolleyes:

I've serviced her, fixed numerous electrical issues including getting the remote CL working again and got her through an MOT a few days ago.

Next up is a drive belt tensioner change, as mine makes a real racket, bleed the clutch to see if I can get a better pedal, change the gearbox oil and then try and find a pair of roof bars before our holiday in May :)
The fault code points towards an over boost issue and a quick pressure test of the actuator valve showed no movement from it. This could be a faulty actuator or seized joint at the turbo end of the actuator rod?.
To fully understand the problem it looks like a bit of garage time is required, which this close to Christmas is sadly not a financial option for me.
The odd thing is the fault being intermittent, as the eml light will go off on its own and the car runs fine for a few miles before the limp mode kicks in again?
 
The fault code points towards an over boost issue and a quick pressure test of the actuator valve showed no movement from it. This could be a faulty actuator or seized joint at the turbo end of the actuator rod?.
To fully understand the problem it looks like a bit of garage time is required, which this close to Christmas is sadly not a financial option for me.
The odd thing is the fault being intermittent, as the eml light will go off on its own and the car runs fine for a few miles before the limp mode kicks in again?
Certainly sounds like a sticky actuator to me, I've serviced one on a Saab before although access was easy, can't imagine its quite as roomy in a Multipla engine bay? Just involved taking all linkage assembly off, bit of wire brush and some brake cleaner. Tiny bit of grease and whack it all back together
 
The actuator looks quite accessible as it's right inbetween the block and the radiator and you can get hands on it without needing to remove anything. I've not however checked closely to see how easy it us to get at the linkage on the turbo?
 
The actuator looks quite accessible as it's right inbetween the block and the radiator and you can get hands on it without needing to remove anything. I've not however checked closely to see how easy it us to get at the linkage on the turbo?
I'm not familiar with the Fiat diesel at all but on the Saab the actuator had a simple bracket supporting it that unbolted and then a threaded rod that came off the turbo (with lots of swearing). It wasn't all that difficult but not sure I'd fancy doing it in the cold & wet
 
So, having finally got fed up of driving in limp mode I decided to gave a go at fixing my overboost issue.
Initial thoughts pointed to the actuator but that would involve spannering in the cold so I turned my attention to something more "snake oil" .
Having looked online I found numerous tales of similar issues as mine and some were rectified using turbo cleaners, so that's what I did.
I purchased a bottle of Wynns turbo cleaning fluid which you add to the fuel as well as a spray that you put in after the MAF.
2a0848edf8a4104c4f95db26773cff96.jpg
314FUeGmBEL._AC_SY580_.jpg
 
Last edited:
I added the in fuel stuff last week and got through a quarter of a tank before noticing that the eml light would go off and stay off for longer periods than it previously had. This morning I unclipped the air inlet pipe, after the MAF and sprayed the entire can of cleaner in. Following a 20 mile "spirited" drive I can report that my eml light now stays off and provoking the fault has so far proven fruitless.
Glopsy is now very much more responsive and is running rather well.
Going forward I need to be more mindful of not doing too many short journeys as well as avoiding cheap supermarket fuel!
 
I thought 4 space saver spare wheels , rally in snowy Finland style , may help in snowy conditions......
 
Well done on that fix thoiughToday was a good day :)

I managed to change the aux belt tensioner this morning, without having to remove the crank pulley and it has cured the awful racket coming from that end of the engine (y) Checking through the service history that came with the car, the tensioner and belt were changed less than 20k ago, and although I appreciate they are both consumables, I'd expect a bit more than a couple of years of driving out of them :(

I also attempted to change the gearbox oil, but couldn't get my 12mm hex socket in the drain plug, and the biggest allen key I had to hand was 10mm. I'll pop over to a local hardware store this weekend and pick a 12mm one up and cut it down to give access to the plug. I did however check the current level, which was so low it took just over a quarter litre.

Also ticked off the list was to replace all 3 wiper blades.

Next up will be the ARB droplinks, when I can work out whether it's the front or the back making the noise.

All in all, working on the Multi has proven fairly straightforward and even without a workshop manual most things I've had to do so far have not been too taxing :)
Ill bet they weren't actually changed...... Well done on that fix though it should make a difference. Suspect that timing belt!
 
Today was service( air/oil/oil filter/top up gearbox) and rear brakes day. Only issue was a sump plug that was made of cheese and decided to round off the hex and getting the handbrake cables onto the shoes took some inventive swear words!
She's at just over 122k now and the new rear shoes have sharpened the brakes up rather well.
Next up will be front discs/pads and flexi hoses.
IMG_20230425_105934204.jpg
IMG_20230425_092527011.jpg
 
Lovely 😀
Since the photo taken I'm sure you have slackened the handbrake cable so the sticky out bit on the shoe lever is lightly touching the shoe.
 
A week or so ago,I noticed that one of my rear bump stops had perished and dropped inside the spring, and today was the day to rectify that.

Looking at the remains of the bump stop it looks as if the top mushroom bit had perished,which is better than the mount being rotten. Having looked at the rear springs, they were both corroded, so I opted to change them as well. I bought some KYB springs and a Febi bump stop, and in between showers,got them fitted.

I opted to just undo the bottom shock bolt, but if I do them again I'll probably undo the arb bolts, as getting the springs out was a bit of a fight on my own.

I wire brushed around the mounts and gave it a quick blast of
IMG_20230717_091813867.jpg

IMG_20230717_111923273.jpg
IMG_20230717_095444883.jpg
IMG_20230717_091817293.jpg
IMG_20230717_095454691.jpg
IMG_20230717_111720661.jpg

Smoothrite, although in reality I should drop the entire subframe and do it properly.

Next job will be the front discs, once I find out what type I have.
 
Hi,

Post a pic of your caliper no need to remove wheel , photo though wheel spokes and I will attempt to identify ATE or Bosch.
Cheers
Jack
 
Back
Top