Technical Fuel light flashing but won't start (No spark)

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Technical Fuel light flashing but won't start (No spark)

Would pump still run if inertia switch was knocked out ?

Hi mate,

no pump would not run at all if the inertia switch was activated. As has been stated, it interups the earth supply to the LP pump.

The circuits for the fuel gauge sender and the pump motor supply are separate.

Have you checked Fuse F22 in the engine bay electrical centre? Its the common supply for the fuel injectors and the coil packs. Scrap that, just seen your previous post about your supply to the injectors/ coil packs

It could well be a BCU/ immob fault. Is there any history to this fault? any electrical issues noticed in the lead up, such as speedo going wild? Indicators sticking on? Also, any electrical work carried out? new headunit etc?

Alan
 
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Yes just re checked all fuses and gave them a clean.

No the guy who's car it is, is away at the mo so it has been parked up. His wife let the battery go flat and now the drama's have started.

I could not find inertia switch, when pump is running I tried the fuel bleed valve on the injector manifold and fuel was flowing at a decent pressure.

When you turn the igntion key the battery light comes on and then goes off. The little steering wheel light is illuminated and stays illuminated. The little yellow key light is lit but goes out after a second or two.
 
what a dope I am, I thought it was under the seat. I will have a look at this tomorrow as it is dark now, then I am going to take the internal fuse box off and take a look at this
 
Would this cause my problems though becuase I can get the pump to run by turning the key after waiting a few mins
 
see post 20

what i suggest you do is
disconnect battery
remove crank sensor wiring from crank sensor
pull crank sensor loom away from engine as best you can to where it enters the engine loom
look carefully for chaffed wire /cut in braiding
 
I'll give this a try tomorrow. I am listening BTW. I will be having a good look at all wires - dont think it is the crack sensor though. I think it has something to do with the dodgy fuel gauge - possibly the BCU ?
 
Would this cause my problems though becuase I can get the pump to run by turning the key after waiting a few mins

If the inertia switch was tripped, the LP pump would not run at all, as it simply cuts the earth to it. It's a mechanical switch which either makes or breaks the circuit. The inertia switch also has no impact on the supply to the coils or injectors, it simply cuts the power (earth) to the LP pump when a certain g force (inertia) is exceeded. It also does not interrupt the CAN lines for the fuel gauge sender.
Also you said your getting fuel pressure to the injectors just not past them, so looks like the LP pump is working ok.

Out of interest, when the car had a flat battery, how was it started again? Jump start? Bump start? Or has it never started since?

Alan
 
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If the inertia switch was tripped, the LP pump would not run at all, as it simply cuts the earth to it. It's a mechanical switch which either makes or breaks the circuit. The inertia switch also has no impact on the supply to the coils or injectors, it simply cuts the power (earth) to the LP pump when a certain g force (inertia) is exceeded. It also does not interrupt the CAN lines for the fuel gauge sender.
Also you said your getting fuel pressure to the injectors just not past them, so looks like the LP pump is working ok.

Out of interest, when the car had a flat battery, how was it started again? Jump start? Bump start? Or has it never started since?

Alan

good thought and possibly the answer
ie bsi busted and its gone the year 2000 too

ive also had a bsi go off because it was parked up in a damp garage for 2 weeks, i probably jump started it, but i used a proper pack so no spikes,the circuit board was a real mess
 
see post 20

what i suggest you do is
disconnect battery
remove crank sensor wiring from crank sensor
pull crank sensor loom away from engine as best you can to where it enters the engine loom
look carefully for chaffed wire /cut in braiding


I'm unaware if you can do it on MES/FES but on examiner you can scope out the output from the crank sensor. Is that option available on MES/ FES for him to try?

Alan
 
good thought and possibly the answer
ie bsi busted and its gone the year 2000 too

ive also had a bsi go off because it was parked up in a damp garage for 2 weeks, i probably jump started it, but i used a proper pack so no spikes,the circuit board was a real mess

Yeah I've seen a few killed by jump starting incorrectly. The recovery guy who tried to jump it off his 24v jump plug instead of the 12v was an interesting one!

Alan
 
As far as I am aware after the battery went flat the car has never started. She asked a neighbour for a jump start from their car. When it did not start thats when she ring me and I got involved.
 
If the inertia switch was tripped, the LP pump would not run at all, as it simply cuts the earth to it. It's a mechanical switch which either makes or breaks the circuit. The inertia switch also has no impact on the supply to the coils or injectors, it simply cuts the power (earth) to the LP pump when a certain g force (inertia) is exceeded. It also does not interrupt the CAN lines for the fuel gauge sender.
Also you said your getting fuel pressure to the injectors just not past them, so looks like the LP pump is working ok.

Out of interest, when the car had a flat battery, how was it started again? Jump start? Bump start? Or has it never started since?

Alan

good thought and possibly the answer
ie bsi busted and its gone the year 2000 too

ive also had a bsi go off because it was parked up in a damp garage for 2 weeks, i probably jump started it, but i used a proper pack so no spikes,the circuit board was a real mess
 

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As far as I am aware after the battery went flat the car has never started. She asked a neighbour for a jump start from their car. When it did not start thats when she ring me and I got involved.


oh dear
this is why when doing this job its so hard because without full information and the car things get really hard to diagnose
looks like youve been dropped in it OP
 
Its the owner I feel sorry for she has spent £120 on parts I have told her it needed and it clearly didn't as it has made absolutely no difference.
 
can this be repaired or is a new one.


BBA reman reckon they are repairable but personally i think they just virginise a s/h one or swap the eprom chip off the broken one

easiest solution is reall s/h bsi ecu annd lock set but be aware it must be same spec as car you have
to be honest i would be very annoyed if i was you and information from customer is being dribbled to you
i would send it back and get my money back off them and then buy car for happence off them then fix it:D

llamedos
 
Its the owner I feel sorry for she has spent £120 on parts I have told her it needed and it clearly didn't as it has made absolutely no difference.

you done your best you asked for advice on information supplied and acted on it
if they had told you the full story at least 2 of us on here would have told you straight away that the main module was probably fried,but information given is classis ecu
dont beat yourself up
show owner of car how you went the mile to get it right
 
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