Technical Front wheel bearings

Currently reading:
Technical Front wheel bearings

Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
19,715
Points
3,354
Ive had a noisy bearing probably the left but cannot be sure. I had replaced that one last year so could it have failed already? Anyhow I'm sick of the noise so bought a pair of SKF from S4P. I don't have a hydraulic press so got one of these kits.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23Pc-Fro...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It's Chinese of course which wrankles, but the "professional" brands are silly money and most likely made in China so I sucked it up and bought one.

The quality is frankly amazing and it works well. There is no way anyone could make it for £35.
Expecting to extract a wheel bearing on the car is pushing your luck. Though perhaps worth a try. I does extract outwards. However mine were off the car as I'm doing the gearbox oil seals and a drive shaft.

One bearing was solid tight. It had to be hauled up tight then thumped on end with two lump hammers (one each side) and tightened again until the bearing started to move. Even then it was extremely hard work. I had two 600mm breaker bars on the job. The hubs were off the car.

My adapted ball joint separator was perfect for knocking the wheel drive flange out of the bearing.

Both drive flanges came out with a bearing inner ring. However, there is no chamfer to get a wedge between bearing and flange. I cut a slot (at an angle) into the bearing race with the angle grinder slitting disc. It goes through hard steel like butter so take care not to cut into the flange. Once it's slotted a hard clout with a cold chisel will crack the bearing ring.

The press kit pushes the flange into the new wheel bearing.
 
Last edited:
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Looks like a handy kit. I have access to an hydraulic press at work, but sometimes it's easier to have an option of doing it at home.

Do you think it would work to push rubber bushes in/out of mounts or suspension parts?
 
I do both the bushes and bearing the hard way with a big hammer


suspension bushes aren't too bad. Drill most of the old out the chisel the rest out. Fairy liquid on rubber bushes and oil the aluminium ones. Normally fairly easy. Well compared to the hubs

I smash the hubs apart on most cars with a sledge hammer. Normally there well worn so separate leaving the inner race on one half and the outer on the other. Grind almost through and chisel off.

hub in the oven and bearing in the freezer and bash back in using the old bearing shells. You have to be quick otherwise you be having a bad day


I have to admit I have got lazy and have changed complete arms lately. Depends a lot on the car and base price of the arms.


However if I had access to a hydraulic press that the way I would go even if it meant borrowing a car for the day.
 
Let me know the rubber bush size and I'll see if there is a disc to suit.

The set uses a hefty compression bolt and long nut, but the discs and sleeves would work fine on a hydraulic press. I might make a small one with some box section tube and a bottle jack. Getting the heavy stuff (thick plate or I beams) for top and bottom is an issue. It's cheap as chips at a scrap yard but they are all using The Coov to stop sales to individuals.

I replaced my left hand front wheel bearing last year with the oven and freezer method, but it was a very tight fit and I had to use the old bearing race to drift it in. Damage must have been done because about 20K miles and its howling. The press kit did the replacement without drama. It may well have worked on the car. The old bearing looks discoloured but I can't see any chip balls.

The RHS bearing was a serious struggle. I cranked it up hard but had to hammer the bolt head with a lump hammer (anther one on the other end to contain the impact). Tightened it some more and repeated until it eventually moved. It was then full strength on the breaker bars to wind it out The new SKF went in more easily. A coat of copper grease probably helped.

The LHS gearbox seal was weeping and yet again the set came in handy. It's another very tight fit. That seal has its own housing which unbolts from the gearbox making life easy. I have a seal for the driver's side, but the exhaust catalyst outlet is perfectly placed to make life difficult. That seal is dry so it can stay put. At least for now.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top