Technical Front hub nut torques

[Ralf S.]

Does anyone have the torque setting for the front hub nuts - regular 1.2?

I had to cut the locking tabs off the old ones since they were too thick to gently lever up and out of the way of teh driveshaft notch... so I'll need to fit new ones. The new ones have the smooth collar to "dent" into the notch rather than the tabs, so that will make life easier in future.

Usually with the tabs you can tighten the hub nut up so it feels "about right" and then give it a bit more, until the tab lines with the notch.. but new nuts and no reference how it was before will mean I need to get the torque wrench out..


Ralf S.

 

[bugsymike]

Does anyone have the torque setting for the front hub nuts - regular 1.2?

I had to cut the locking tabs off the old ones since they were too thick to gently lever up and out of the way of teh driveshaft notch... so I'll need to fit new ones. The new ones have the smooth collar to "dent" into the notch rather than the tabs, so that will make life easier in future.

Usually with the tabs you can tighten the hub nut up so it feels "about right" and then give it a bit more, until the tab lines with the notch.. but new nuts and no reference how it was before will mean I need to get the torque wrench out..


Ralf S.

See if you can confirm with another source but my Autodata has this if you blow up the photos. Mike

 

[The Panda Nut]

The big probem is that you need an HGV torque wrench to get that force. No car / DIY wrench will get near so its a breaker bar and a scaffolding tube then and do the 70Nm +55 degrees thing. The torque setting says pretty well as tight as you can get it with the longets available tube you can use slipped on the bar done as tight as you can. or do it damned tight and then get a garage to torque it.

 

[bugsymike]

The big probem is that you need an HGV torque wrench to get that force. No car / DIY wrench will get near so its a breaker bar and a scaffolding tube then and do the 70Nm +55 degrees thing. The torque setting says pretty well as tight as you can get it with the longets available tube you can use slipped on the bar done as tight as you can. or do it damned tight and then get a garage to torque it.

Just checked my standard 1/2 drive Brittool Torque wrench I have had for years it goes up to 280Nm. I did have a 3/4 drive commercial one that went way up but never needed it.
I think the idea is you click it off at 70Nm with your torque wrench, then do the 55 degrees or what ever your model is saying maybe with a long bar, then check that it is somewhere in the region of the 220+Nm. Personally I have faith in my torque wrench and oil it regularly plus I set it then "click it off " a few times in my vice before using it, to know it isn't sticking or anything, I wouldn't necessarily trust anyone elses.
The last time I had it any where near that torque was on the Fiat 1.3 Multijet crank pulley (lh 230Nm)

 

[The Panda Nut]

Just checked my standard 1/2 drive Brittool Torque wrench I have had for years it goes up to 280Nm. I did have a 3/4 drive commercial one that went way up but never needed it.
I think the idea is you click it off at 70Nm with your torque wrench, then do the 55 degrees or what ever your model is saying maybe with a long bar, then check that it is somewhere in the region of the 220+Nm. Personally I have faith in my torque wrench and oil it regularly plus I set it then "click it off " a few times in my vice before using it, to know it isn't sticking or anything, I wouldn't necessarily trust anyone elses.
The last time I had it any where near that torque was on the Fiat 1.3 Multijet crank pulley (lh 230Nm)

Sounds good. I back my setting back to 0 when stored to remove any tension on anything. My old wrench doesnt go anywhere near this high. I though I saw 270-350Nm but I think we agree they mean B tight! Not too much danger of overdoing it!

 

[Ralf S.]

Cool, thanks. Sounds like I can't over-tighten it very easily then.

In the old days hub bolts tended to have a cotter pin, so you had to line up a notch in the nut with the hole in the driveshaft to put the pin in. Once you got to what felt like the right tightness, and rotated the nut a bit more to line up the hole, you could be pretty sure you were in the right torque place.

The new nuts have arrived and they have the soft collar to bash into the notch. First time I had one of these I thought it was some new-fangled cross-thread doodah that didn't need locking. and of course the nut came loose after a few days and ruined the new wheel bearing I'd fitted...



Ralf S.

 

[bugsymike]

Cool, thanks. Sounds like I can't over-tighten it very easily then.

In the old days hub bolts tended to have a cotter pin, so you had to line up a notch in the nut with the hole in the driveshaft to put the pin in. Once you got to what felt like the right tightness, and rotated the nut a bit more to line up the hole, you could be pretty sure you were in the right torque place.

The new nuts have arrived and they have the soft collar to bash into the notch. First time I had one of these I thought it was some new-fangled cross-thread doodah that didn't need locking. and of course the nut came loose after a few days and ruined the new wheel bearing I'd fitted...



Ralf S.

I still have boxes of new split pins.
Re your earlier comment about being able to being able to tighten a little further to a clean/undamaged section of the lock nut, if stuck it was sometime possible to swap the one from the other side which would sit in the right position.

 

[vexorg]

I think my biggest torque wrench only goes to 220Nm, so I torqued it up to that, then a bit of physics. Take my weight, figure out where to stand on the breaker bar when horizontal and approx 280Nm (only 200lbft), so about just over a foot away from nut. Slight bounce for good measure than that was it.