Technical Forte Advanced Formula Motor Flush
- Thread starter Roswell
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Technical Forte Advanced Formula Motor Flush
As for using other oil to flush the system, does it matter what grade/type it is?
As i got several types of oil in small amount lying about and would be a waste to bin!
Ming
As i got several types of oil in small amount lying about and would be a waste to bin!
Ming
nice regualar oil changes and you shouldn't need to do anything.
The first time i change the oil in a car I just buy the cheapest oil available, drop the old oil put the cheap stuff in (plus a litre of diesel engine oil too if i have any around too as it is very high detergent). Then run the car for 50-100miles, then drop the oil again while it is still hot, swap the filter and then stick in good quality oil.
after that change the oil at half to 3 quarters if the recommended intervals.
The first time i change the oil in a car I just buy the cheapest oil available, drop the old oil put the cheap stuff in (plus a litre of diesel engine oil too if i have any around too as it is very high detergent). Then run the car for 50-100miles, then drop the oil again while it is still hot, swap the filter and then stick in good quality oil.
after that change the oil at half to 3 quarters if the recommended intervals.
some people use diesel engine oil as it has a higher percentage of cleaning agent. it will not do any harm to your engine if you leave it in for a week or so as most diesel oils are rated for petrol engines as wellBe careful, an unknown oil change history may leave a lot of oil deposits in the engine, flushing can dislodge and block oilways resulting in bad results
Also, it may clear more out if you run it for weeks, but you may be doing harm. You can run a car a few laps on a track without oil (remember the top gear test), just because it still goes, doesn't mean you haven't caused premature wear.
I'd use replace the oil for cheap mineral with a new filter for a few 1000 miles, then give it a flush, as directed, and top up with a quality oil. Less chance of anything big being dislodged then.
Saying that, 100 different people with have a 100 differeing views, some use diesel instead of oil for a short period. I know for a fact, i won't run a flush treatment for any length of time though.
Kristian
Hi Parrafin is good, and yes as a once treatement on a engine with an unknown service history or that has been in storage for a few months...
I drain old oil when hot, add 20-50 chepo to reach bottom of dip stick and additive or parraffin, and run for five minutes.
Then change oil and filter.
If the engine has hydrulic tappets this is more desirable.
Then change the oil & filter at shorter then normal intervals, I hate rebuilding engines, new oil control rings etc., ...
Noel
I drain old oil when hot, add 20-50 chepo to reach bottom of dip stick and additive or parraffin, and run for five minutes.
Then change oil and filter.
If the engine has hydrulic tappets this is more desirable.
Then change the oil & filter at shorter then normal intervals, I hate rebuilding engines, new oil control rings etc., ...
Noel
How the fook do people change the oil when is still hot? How do you avoid getting burnt?
Ming
Ming
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loosen the sump plug. then undo it bit by bit until it starts dripping. then very gently slowly turn with your fingers (poke it) until it falls out. if your fast enough it wont catch you and run down your arm
I guarantee you after you have done your early regular oil change and filter change that you will still have the oil coming out very dark if you add a bottle of Forte treatment and let it idle for 15 mins.
There is no better engine flush than Forte and it doesn't do any harm to use it even on unknown engine histories. It will clean out the system without doing any harm.
Anyway, Forte has got a 1 million pound insurance cover for each claim and I never heard that someone had to make use of it.
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don't the oil reach over 100 degree after being fully warmed up ? Will those rubber golve do the trick ?
How will a magnetic sump key help
? Do you just un do it a bit and let it drop out slowly?
Thanks
Ming
How will a magnetic sump key help
? Do you just un do it a bit and let it drop out slowly?Thanks
Ming
Glove
Cheers
SPD
Cheers
SPD
Stop being a wimp, Ming, just get on with it!
don't the oil reach over 100 degree after being fully warmed up ? Will those rubber golve do the trick ?
How will a magnetic sump key help
Thanks
Ming
he ment to say.. magic sump key
There is a difference between HOT and warm
1st or 3rd degree burns
always work for me.
OP
OP
Roswell
New member
I followed the instructions on the bottle.
Has anybody tried using a small quantity of Forte directly into the cylinder to free stuck piston rings? Would it damage the Cat or oxy sensor?
I've got 1 cylinder on my 899 Sei low on compression. I've had the head off in the hope that it was either a gasket or valve problem, but all looked OK. Did a decoke, cleaned and lapped all the valves, but it didn't fix the problem. I put some Redex in the cylinder, left it a while, and when I fired up it was great at first - the oil in the Redex was improving the compression, the classic test for piston ring problems. After a few minutes it was back to running on 3 cylinders, and when I took no.4 plug out it was oiled as before.
I thought maybe a more powerful cleaner might be worth trying.
I've got 1 cylinder on my 899 Sei low on compression. I've had the head off in the hope that it was either a gasket or valve problem, but all looked OK. Did a decoke, cleaned and lapped all the valves, but it didn't fix the problem. I put some Redex in the cylinder, left it a while, and when I fired up it was great at first - the oil in the Redex was improving the compression, the classic test for piston ring problems. After a few minutes it was back to running on 3 cylinders, and when I took no.4 plug out it was oiled as before.
I thought maybe a more powerful cleaner might be worth trying.
