General Fiat Scudo 20 JTD ECU board fault

[mark leach]

Hi, Ive had a breakdown that has proved to be a cut wire that has also taken out the main ECU engine board.The main dealer is quoting mega bucks. My question is on a scudo 2.0 jtd can the new ecu board be programmed by anybody other than Fiat? Or can you fit a second hand one as the dealer has already indicated that they had a citroen dispatch one and it fired up straight away.I am really up against getting the right information,is there anybody out there that can help?:bang: Many thanks Mark.

 

[T14086]

year?

 

[mark leach]

year?

Its an 04?

 

[kellys_eye]

What wire was cut? How do you know the ECU is dud (other than the 'experts' assurances)?

There are too many cases heard about so-called experts condemning the ECU when the fault lies elsewhere.

 

[mark leach]

hi, they would not say other than it was in the engine loom. All in all its very closed shop,the meters been running and thats their diagnosis and needless to say they want meggar bucks to fit a new board.Thanks Mark

 

[kellys_eye]

hi, they would not say other than it was in the engine loom. All in all its very closed shop,the meters been running and thats their diagnosis and needless to say they want meggar bucks to fit a new board.

Typical garage response. I'm still VERY suspect of their comments.


Symptoms of the main ECU cutting/not working out are rough running and funny things happening to the water temperature meter. Similarly, the pre-heat light doesn't come on although, when the van is hot, you can restart and drive it anyway (albeit with a rough 'diesel' sounding noise). The van WILL start and run (roughly but no damage to the engine) if you do the following.

If you can't get pre-heat light to come on you can short the pre-heat relay terminals (the ones with the big fat wires on) for 10 seconds to give the van a chance to start. If it does then look at the double relay (left hand side of compartment as viewed from the front) as it's THIS relay that provides the power to the ECU and is a common cause of faults.

A new double relay costs about £14. The ECU????? Gawd forbid..... but an easy money-making exercise for the garage.

If you're feeling adventurous and suspect the double relay IS the fault then hack it apart and clean the contacts as a stop-gap solution (it works - I've done it and I'm still on the road after 2 months).

Anyway..... a 'cut wire' or fault in the loom does NOT make the ECU go "t i ts-up". What kind of idiot (garage) jumps straight to THIS assumption?



.

 

[T14086]

a shorted wire could (and has) taken out a component as a result however you are entitled to ask what they have done and request any printouts afterall its your money.....always speak to the tech

 

[kellys_eye]

I'm just commenting on the symptoms given.

"a cut wire" - wires don't cut themselves
"in the loom" - sounds like they haven't a clue where it is
"the machine says so" - and we all know machines are infallible

Shorting an ECU output shouldn't cause it to blow up. ECUs are usually designed to cope with such situations (i.e. having open-collector driver circuits that aren't affected by shorts). However shorting an output to 12V may do damage - but how does a randomly 'cut' wire find a 12V source?

The ECU will show as 'faulty' if the diagnosis machine doesn't get a signal from it (if the ECU isn't getting its supply voltage for example) and the temptation to get the 'ignorant customer' to cough up for a new ECU must make the garage rub their hands with glee.

Call me cynical............

 

[T14086]

I'm just commenting on the symptoms given.

of course, I wasn't arguing against your post just adding to it. I agree that something seems 'amiss' here, easiest thing is to ask for the old ECU back

 

[mark leach]

Typical garage response. I'm still VERY suspect of their comments.


Symptoms of the main ECU cutting/not working out are rough running and funny things happening to the water temperature meter. Similarly, the pre-heat light doesn't come on although, when the van is hot, you can restart and drive it anyway (albeit with a rough 'diesel' sounding noise). The van WILL start and run (roughly but no damage to the engine) if you do the following.

If you can't get pre-heat light to come on you can short the pre-heat relay terminals (the ones with the big fat wires on) for 10 seconds to give the van a chance to start. If it does then look at the double relay (left hand side of compartment as viewed from the front) as it's THIS relay that provides the power to the ECU and is a common cause of faults.

A new double relay costs about £14. The ECU????? Gawd forbid..... but an easy money-making exercise for the garage.

If you're feeling adventurous and suspect the double relay IS the fault then hack it apart and clean the contacts as a stop-gap solution (it works - I've done it and I'm still on the road after 2 months).

Anyway..... a 'cut wire' or fault in the loom does NOT make the ECU go "t i ts-up". What kind of idiot (garage) jumps straight to THIS assumption?



.

Hi Kelly's eye, thanks for your help, problem I've got is the van is still on their premises, Ive paid loads for their diagnosis,they say the board is faulty and with a new one fitted it fires up but won't with mine. I have said I can't afford a new board as they want 700 quid for it. So I'm trying to get my board fixed. I feel boxed in because of this over a barrel aspect of having to have the board coded to your keys. Any ideas regards Mark.