Technical Exhaust front section from one supplier and the back from another

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Technical Exhaust front section from one supplier and the back from another

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Sep 9, 2008
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Ashford, Kent
Seems my 18 year old exhaust has finally failed. The flexi section has sheared as it seems the hanger there has snapped, so the flexi took the extra weight and then broke at the end.
If I get a front section from one manufacturer and the back section from another, does anyone know if there will be any issues? I am worried that the end of the front pipe may not meet the end of the pipe from the back box!
Any recommendations on suppliers?
 

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Seems my 18 year old exhaust has finally failed. The flexi section has sheared as it seems the hanger there has snapped, so the flexi took the extra weight and then broke at the end.
If I get a front section from one manufacturer and the back section from another, does anyone know if there will be any issues? I am worried that the end of the front pipe may not meet the end of the pipe from the back box!
Any recommendations on suppliers?
Nothing is ever certain, but often over a cars lifetime many different pattern exhausts will have been fitted.
Hopefully if details supplied are correct and if you ask the question "will this fit my car Reg.No. ******* and they say yes, then it is their liability if ordering online.
All you can do is compare with what is on there before trying to fit, so if undamaged supplier cannot really object if their part is wrong, assuming your car is standard and not altered from original.
 
Look on the forums ePER to get the original factory part numbers ;)

That should give the best chance of interchangable parts :)
I have the parts as they arrived today.
The front section is attached by two 12mm bolts to the pipe from the cat. My first attempt at getting the nut off (after two days of it being soaked in penetrating oil) using a rattle gun has led to the nut just rounding off. :mad:
:mad:
 
I have the parts as they arrived today.
The front section is attached by two 12mm bolts to the pipe from the cat. My first attempt at getting the nut off (after two days of it being soaked in penetrating oil) using a rattle gun has led to the nut just rounding off. :mad:
:mad:
If it's been there for 18 years? ;)
Do you use normal or impact sockets?
There are some "extractor" type sockets with a reverse spiral which wind on to the nut as you undo it, but I would use a normal bar and ratchet with an impact socket rather than rattle gun as less chance of damage.
Last resort if you can get access is a thin cutting disc on a small angle grinder and just run down one flat of the nut towards the flange but just "kissing" the threads in one spot lightly then either the nut will release or you can use a small flat chisel and tap the nut around to undo.
I have had to do this in the past and it causes minimal damage to the stud so can easily be reused, just with a new nut.
Undoing nuts/bolts on a cat can be hard as they get very hot in regular use and seize on.
 
If it's been there for 18 years? ;)
Do you use normal or impact sockets?
There are some "extractor" type sockets with a reverse spiral which wind on to the nut as you undo it, but I would use a normal bar and ratchet with an impact socket rather than rattle gun as less chance of damage.
Last resort if you can get access is a thin cutting disc on a small angle grinder and just run down one flat of the nut towards the flange but just "kissing" the threads in one spot lightly then either the nut will release or you can use a small flat chisel and tap the nut around to undo.
I have had to do this in the past and it causes minimal damage to the stud so can easily be reused, just with a new nut.
Undoing nuts/bolts on a cat can be hard as they get very hot in regular use and seize on.
I used a normal socket and got nowhere, so I set the deWalt with its impact socket attached to number 1 and tried that but nothing. I then tried number 2 setting (out of 3) and it just rounded the nut. My father in law is going to bring his tools tomorrow (he is a mechanical engineer with loads of tools) and either he or I will see what we can do.
 
I have the parts as they arrived today.
The front section is attached by two 12mm bolts to the pipe from the cat. My first attempt at getting the nut off (after two days of it being soaked in penetrating oil) using a rattle gun has led to the nut just rounding off. :mad:
:mad:
Stop trying to rotate it, you'll probably just snap the stud. Use a nut splitter or air hammer chisel to spread the nut. it'll then loose it's grip on the stud and you'll be able to wind it off with a mole or footprint type wrench. Here's a couple of videos to help:



And, if you have an air hammer, here's the way I favour. Be a bit careful with the vibration if you're near the cat though as you might damage the honeycomb core.



If you're buying a nut splitter there are two main types. One is the type shown in the video but I bought this one:

P1100783.JPG

because it's easier to use in a situation where perhaps part of a casting is blindsiding one side of the nut.
 
Stop trying to rotate it, you'll probably just snap the stud. Use a nut splitter or air hammer chisel to spread the nut. it'll then loose it's grip on the stud and you'll be able to wind it off with a mole or footprint type wrench. Here's a couple of videos to help:



And, if you have an air hammer, here's the way I favour. Be a bit careful with the vibration if you're near the cat though as you might damage the honeycomb core.



If you're buying a nut splitter there are two main types. One is the type shown in the video but I bought this one:

View attachment 422508

because it's easier to use in a situation where perhaps part of a casting is blindsiding one side of the nut.

Thanks. I never knew there such tools as nut splitters. I was amazed in the one video to see perfect threads buried deep in what was seemingly a mound of rust.
 
Thanks. I never knew there such tools as nut splitters. I was amazed in the one video to see perfect threads buried deep in what was seemingly a mound of rust.
I especially like using the air hammer because the vibration tends to slacken everything off nicely - I'm a big fan of using Vibroshock techniques on corroded fittings as many will know from some of my previous posts - The first couple of times I tried it on exhaust fixings I was absolutely bricking it that I might damage the cat honeycomb, however I've not seen any evidence of this. I've also had some great success with the nut splitter. The problem with the nut splitter is often access though, particularly on manifold flanges, whereas you can often poke the chisel in through the obstructions because of it's length.

For those who are scratching their heads wondering what I'm talking about mentioning Vibroshock take a look here: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/check-glow-plugs.496633/#post-4654767 and start reading at the fourth post down.
 
I especially like using the air hammer because the vibration tends to slacken everything off nicely - I'm a big fan of using Vibroshock techniques on corroded fittings as many will know from some of my previous posts - The first couple of times I tried it on exhaust fixings I was absolutely bricking it that I might damage the cat honeycomb, however I've not seen any evidence of this. I've also had some great success with the nut splitter. The problem with the nut splitter is often access though, particularly on manifold flanges, whereas you can often poke the chisel in through the obstructions because of it's length.

For those who are scratching their heads wondering what I'm talking about mentioning Vibroshock take a look here: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/check-glow-plugs.496633/#post-4654767 and start reading at the fourth post down.
Useful tool in a workshop, though not sure your neighbours would appreciate it on a early Sunday morning, I can recall my ears ringing from cutting the top off a 45 gallon oil drum;).
I still have my impact chisel tool, plus 1/2 and 3/4 both air and 110volt impact wrenches etc. though being retired they don't see much action.
I never got into the rechargeable tools, as in their early days they were under powered and battery life was minimal, totally different now.
 
Useful tool in a workshop, though not sure your neighbours would appreciate it on a early Sunday morning, I can recall my ears ringing from cutting the top off a 45 gallon oil drum;).
I still have my impact chisel tool, plus 1/2 and 3/4 both air and 110volt impact wrenches etc. though being retired they don't see much action.
I never got into the rechargeable tools, as in their early days they were under powered and battery life was minimal, totally different now.
Yes, I do have to be a bit careful and considerate as to when I'm going to use it. Luckily I've got very nice neighbours who seem quite happy with my, now a days, very occasional use of my more noisy tools. Probably because they all know I'm pleased to act as the street's tame "roadside helper" when their car won't start or if they want an opinion or other assistance - Like the chap who couldn't get the nuts undone to change a puncture.

I suppose that air tools was the way to go back in our day? Like you pretty much all my stuff is air powered and I'm lucky enough to have a compressor which can power them and is quiet enough when running that if the door is closed you really can't hear it out in the street.. The downside is that it's annoying and wasteful of energy to have to power up the compressor just for one job so I was thinking of buying a battery impact wrench for use mostly on wheel bolts (although I always do final tightening by hand) However, like you, now being well and truly retired, I'm wondering if it'll be like my battery electric drill where it always seems to have a flat battery just when I want to use it! Thinking some more on this I'm quite attracted to the idea of a corded one, like this for instance: https://www.hot-buys.co.uk/diy-tool...rench-12-drive-and-4-sockets-450nm-p-181.html I think this would work out for me as I rarely do anything away from home any more and would use it more for removing wheel nuts/bolts more than anything else so it's lack of fine control wouldn't matter.
 
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