Tuning engine swap

Currently reading:
Tuning engine swap

Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
493
Points
140
Location
blackwood
quick question, im swapping my 1.1 block in my sei for a 1.2 and putting my 1.1 mpi head on there with the 866 cam, it should run ok shouldn't It? The reason im swapping the head is because its spi head.
 
check the alt pulleys are the same you may need to use the mpi pulley as well
 
Spi pulleys can have different teeth use the mpi one you have it will have the same teeth as the cam pully

you may have difficulty with the 1100 exhaust manifold if the 1200 block is too tall it may be too close to sump.

it will transform the torque you have
 
I have a supersprint mani so should be ok, engine was out in roughly 2 hrs with no problems. I now have an spi head which has been ported an polished and looks like brand new so if any one is interested send me a pm.
 
sorry my previous was not clear
you need to use both the 1100 alt pully and 1100 cam belt pully on the crank if the tooth pitch is different if it is the same pitch leave the cam pully on the crank
and you need to use a belt with the correct tooth pitch your old belt may be long enough
 
Yeah i was going to check last night but totally forgot, ill check today, plus is the procedure and torque settings to tighten the head bolts the same or different because it has the 1.2 Block?
 
id use the 1200 torque if they were different
but id a skimmed the head if I wanted 50k miles from rebuild and I scrap a head bolt by cutting a slot and running it into each hole and air line or aerosol the debris out id a checked each hole for depth with different block
you did check the head and block were both flat within service limits
you need to be confident there is no crud in oil ways of block or head
then I pump them with kerosene from a pressure oil can then with colloidal graphite loaded oil in your case the head before you drop it on.
you need to be sure that the oil way on head and block mate im never confident with any spare
when you get the cam on id fill the oil rail with the colloidal before bolting it down and run with plugs out and cover off until clean oil started to egress from bearings messy don't care
I hate rebuilding engines even with same parts as before
but that is just me
hope all is ok with yours
 
Right I've just checked the block and it doesn't have a bolt hole for the knock sensor. There is a bolt hole further down the block can i use That?

Probably. As long as the location is central it should pick up the knock and not interference. Otherwise you could probably make up a boss with one of those wonder epoxies.
 
Back
Top