Technical  Electronic conversation

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Technical  Electronic conversation

ianhowe

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Jul 26, 2010
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Happy new year all.

I have decided to swap the ignition on my 594 engine to electronic, I have seen a few options on line from a contact replacement plate to a full new distributor, any recommendations or advice on what to stay away from ? Thanks
 
Thanks for advice
The 123 ignition system is no longer made in "The Netherlands", and I have been advised that the quality is not as good as the original "Dutch made"versions. The main problem with ALL the electronic ignitions is where they are positioned on the engine---right in the path of the hot (and sometimes, VERY hot) "cooling-air" coming from the engine. ALL the 'electronic ignition' systems have a flaw, in that they do NOT like 'in excess off' 100C heat, (and the 123 systems used to have a label on the side of the unit advising the user of that fact) and the "cooling-air" being blown over them, especially after a 'spirited' drive, can (and often does) exceed 100C. The "Hall effect"type electronic ignition units (Ultra-spark, Powerspark etc.) can give very satisfactory improvements to both starting and performance---and are a heck of a lot cheaper! True, they cannot be controlled from you your phone, but do you really need that function?
Some time ago I suffered an "electronic-ignition" breakdown---1 hour TO my destination---4-1/2 hours to get back FROM where I had been! I looked into a system of protecting the distributor from the "engine-cooling" heat and devised, and fitted, a small air-dam built inside the thermostat-housing that has protected the distributor from the very hot air being blown over it. To date, even after a "fairly enthusiastic" drive on a hot day, the temperature of my distributor has never exceeded 96C. Admittedly, not a lot cooler, but enough below the "wilt" point of the ignition unit (a 'Hall-effect' unit) to noticeably extend the life of the unit. A fair bit of the heat in the distributor will be ambient heat from the engine's crankcase---for which I have no cure!
If you decide to fit one of the "Hall-effect" units, the easy way to initially time them (because you cannot "static time" the "Hall-effect" ignition units) is to firstly, set your timing with the points still fitted. Then, turn the engine over until the rotor-arm (in the distributor) is in an "easily-remembered-position" Secondly, mark both the distributor AND the crankcase so that you can put the distributor back into the same position. Remove the distributor, fit the ignition pack, refit the distributor (preferably with a new little gasket) carefully positioning the rotor-arm in that "easily-remembered-position" and lining up the distributor with the marks you made on both it, and the crankcase (prior to removing the distributor).Your engine should fire up easily, and then check your timing with a "Stroboscope" and adjust as required. If you would like a copy of the article that I wrote for the "Fiat 500 Enthusiasts Club" magazine, with accompanying pictures, of the 'air-dam' that I made, contact me on [email protected] ,let me have your address (the article and pictures are on paper) and I will send you a copy of my idea to you.
 
When I had the 123 ignition I suffered no issues associated with overheating, but the design of the moving disc mechanism was flawed, and the reproduction distributor cap, (which they have no option for not using), was badly dimensioned. So I eventually gave up on it because of mechanical unreliability.

I have found that the key to having a good and reliable ignition system of any type is to thoroughly understand the principles, parameters and operation of its components. In my case I am perfectly happy with the original system, whilst accepting that with poor maintenence or understanding it is possibly less reliable than an electronic setup. Having said that, an ageing or damaged distributor which has been modified for electronic ignition is unlikely to fully resolve all problems that the engine to which it is fitted may have experienced previously.
 
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