Technical Brake disk conversion

[Alex9721]

Hi. I brought a front disk conversion kit from
D'Angelo and was initially looking to swap out the drums (master cylinder, flexible hoses) myself. The set came with reconditioned kingpins which are different to the existing. Initially I thought I could use the existing kingpins but the new kingpins have an additional fixing point. I'm now thinking that I need to get a garage to fix the kit as I don't have the tools to remove and replace the kingpins but would welcome any thoughts on whether this is doable with limited tools a new hobbyist has. Thanks

 

[the hobbler]

Hi. I brought a front disk conversion kit from
D'Angelo and was initially looking to swap out the drums (master cylinder, flexible hoses) myself. The set came with reconditioned kingpins which are different to the existing. Initially I thought I could use the existing kingpins but the new kingpins have an additional fixing point. I'm now thinking that I need to get a garage to fix the kit as I don't have the tools to remove and replace the kingpins but would welcome any thoughts on whether this is doable with limited tools a new hobbyist has. Thanks

What was the part number of the kit---I will have a look and try and come up with a sensible answer!

 

[Alex9721]

Thanks. This is the link https://www.dangelomotori.it/prodotto/kit-freni-a-disco-anteriori-per-cerchi-interasse-4x190-da-12/

 

[timmycm850]

Just mount the whole assembly as purchased, at least that way you have some form of warranty.

 

[timmycm850]

Ball joint splitter. Socket set and spanner set, jack and axle stands for safety.

You will have to reset the steering toe and probably camber settings too

 

[the hobbler]

Ball joint splitter. Socket set and spanner set, jack and axle stands for safety.

You will have to reset the steering toe and probably camber settings too

Yes, it does look as if you just remove the old complete king-pin/ stub-axle assembly and fit this kit in its place. When you purchased the kit, was there any indication that the front track MIGHT end up being wider due to the adapter-plates to enable one to fit 500 (190pcd) wheels on it. Interesting that they make a point of mentioning that if you remove the adapter-plate, you will be able to fit the later (Mk2 126, 600 and 850 cars) 98pcd wheels---all you then have to do is fit Mk 2 '126' rear stub-axles and brakes and a set of 98pcd wheels---simples! Be careful, with the discs and standard wheels/tyres you will find it quite easy to lock-up the front wheels in adverse conditions.

 

[Alex9721]

Thanks all. This is much clearer on the right way forward. I will check with D'Angelo on the impact on track width. One thing I'm not clear on is if the kingpin is under load from the leaf springs and shock? If I remove it am I able to simply offer up the new kingpin to the space left by the existing or do the leaf springs and shock need to be "opened", so the new kingpin can fit? If the latter, can this be done by hand? Thanks

 

[the hobbler]

Thanks all. This is much clearer on the right way forward. I will check with D'Angelo on the impact on track width. One thing I'm not clear on is if the kingpin is under load from the leaf springs and shock? If I remove it am I able to simply offer up the new kingpin to the space left by the existing or do the leaf springs and shock need to be "opened", so the new kingpin can fit? If the latter, can this be done by hand? Thanks

First of all, make sure that you put the car on stands (at the front---under the alloy spring mounts) before you commence any work on the car. It will help if you have a small trolley-jack that you can put under the king-pin unit and have it take the weight of the spring and king-pin unit. Then undo the damper (aka, incorrectly, shock absorber) top mount, the king-pin assembly top bolt (to the wishbone), let the jack down gently and remove the bottom bolt that connects the king-pin unit to the spring. Do NOT forget to undo the brake line to the hub. If you have a "flexible-brake-line crimper"--use it. There is every possibility that you will require new front brake hoses---use the "flexible steel" variety if you can and take care as to how you place the new house so that they neither stretched, or 'crimped', when going from lock-to-lock (WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND). You will need to do as full 'brake-bleed' when everything is fitted. If you are not changing the actual suspension in any way, there is a good chance that you will not have to check 'camber' or 'toe-in' If you DO have to adjust the 'toe-in' it is very important that at the end of any adjustments, the track-rods are of "EQUAL" length

 

[Alex9721]

Cheers. This is really clear for me now . Thanks for advice. Couple of shows in the next couple of weeks, so will leave for now as more involved than originally expected.