Technical ECU Problem

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Technical ECU Problem

Badger169

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Hi everyone, looking for some help or advice.

I have a Panda 1.4 100hp and the other day when I came to it, it wouldn't start. It turned over really well & fast, but just wouldn't fire up. So called breakdown out and after he'd tested everything he said that it looks like an ECU proble, he said there was power getting to the ECU but nothing come out :( So he towed me to my garage that I use. The mechanic sent my ECU off to get tested and hopefully fixed but the other day he contacted me and said that it wasn't good news. The ECU test had shown that there is no comms etc, coming from the unit, so unfortunately it cant be repaired and is goosed. Since then I have been trying to locate another ECU but its like trying to find rocking horse you know what. So does anyone know of anything that I could do to get my car purring again. I thought about trying to get one of a scrapper or something, but ive been told that even that might not work, as I would need the keys, immobiliser etc, so any help would be greatly appreciated :)
 
mmmm

Very much doubt the original fault was the ECU.

Even if it was an ECU repair company would have a fixed fee repair.

any replacement now will need to be made into a virgin by a specialized company

I am over 50% sure a new ECU will not fully fix the problem. 90% of the time

its powers and grounds wires or sensor stopping the ECU communicating or loosing the 5V reference line
 
mmmm

Very much doubt the original fault was the ECU.

Even if it was an ECU repair company would have a fixed fee repair.

any replacement now will need to be made into a virgin by a specialized company

I am over 50% sure a new ECU will not fully fix the problem. 90% of the time

its powers and grounds wires or sensor stopping the ECU communicating or loosing the 5V reference line
ive been told that its not possible to clone another ECU from mine, because to do this the software etc has to be taken from the original ECU and as that is not giving out any comms at all, unfortunately its not possible to do. What makes you think that a new ECU will not fix the problem? Everything else works, the ECU is getting power into it as this has been tested via a diagnostics, but there is nothing coming out from the ECU
 
mmmm

Very much doubt the original fault was the ECU.

Even if it was an ECU repair company would have a fixed fee repair.

any replacement now will need to be made into a virgin by a specialized company

I am over 50% sure a new ECU will not fully fix the problem. 90% of the time

its powers and grounds wires or sensor stopping the ECU communicating or loosing the 5V reference line
also, an ECU specialist spent 2hrs on it trying to diagnose the fault, so things like wires and sensors were tested and it was found that the fault was internal and couldn't be repaired and would need to be replaced
 
ive been told that its not possible to clone another ECU from mine, because to do this the software etc has to be taken from the original ECU and as that is not giving out any comms at all, unfortunately its not possible to do. What makes you think that a new ECU will not fix the problem? Everything else works, the ECU is getting power into it as this has been tested via a diagnostics, but there is nothing coming out from the ECU

ECU rarely fail in the last 20 years. Garages and mechanics often condemn the ECU without doing basic checks. A broken wire will stop communication just as easy

I have seen one totally dead ECU on a 205 GTI but was due to being messed with and a discovery with had been under water

we now have a bit more information as it was tested via diagnostics. To even connect to the ECU a fair percentage of the ECU and body computer have to pass information backwards and forwards



the body and ecu are tied together. You can't just change the ecu. you would have to wipe the body computer so it recognises the ecu. Job for a specialist.


when you turned the engine over

did the rev needle bounce
did the immobiliser light go out
was there an engine check light and did it go out as it was being crankec
 
Hi everyone, looking for some help or advice.

I have a Panda 1.4 100hp and the other day when I came to it, it wouldn't start. It turned over really well & fast, but just wouldn't fire up. So called breakdown out and after he'd tested everything he said that it looks like an ECU proble, he said there was power getting to the ECU but nothing come out :( So he towed me to my garage that I use. The mechanic sent my ECU off to get tested and hopefully fixed but the other day he contacted me and said that it wasn't good news. The ECU test had shown that there is no comms etc, coming from the unit, so unfortunately it cant be repaired and is goosed. Since then I have been trying to locate another ECU but its like trying to find rocking horse you know what. So does anyone know of anything that I could do to get my car purring again. I thought about trying to get one of a scrapper or something, but ive been told that even that might not work, as I would need the keys, immobiliser etc, so any help would be greatly appreciated :)
If you can find a used engine ecu send it to an ecu specialist get it checked and virginised .
When you fit a new (Or virginised) engine ecu it picks up the imobiliser code from the bcm so it is in effect plug and play.
 
I can get a recon ECU (don’t ask how much) so would I just need to fit it and that’s it? I wasn’t sure if it would need to be programmed or something first
 
when you turned the engine over

did the rev needle bounce
did the immobiliser light go out
was there an engine check light and did it go out as it was being cranked


yes if the ECU has been blanked its plug and play
 
The rev needle didn't bounce, the immobiliser light didn't go out and there was no engine check light
 
when you turned the engine over

did the rev needle bounce
did the immobiliser light go out
was there an engine check light and did it go out as it was being cranked


yes if the ECU has been blanked its plug and play
The rev needle didn't bounce, the immobiliser light didn't go out and there was no engine check light
 
if the key fails you can manually enter a code to the car so the car can be moved in an emergency.


sounds like it has been tested.



I don't known what the Pandas strategy is for the imobilizer. Some cars start for a second or so. Some shut everything down. No spark, No injector pulse


maybe someone could chime in.
 
Hi everyone, looking for some help or advice.

It turned over really well & fast, but just wouldn't fire up.


The mechanic sent my ECU off to get tested and hopefully fixed but the other day he contacted me and said that it wasn't good news.

The ECU test had shown that there is no comms etc, coming from the unit,

The ECU tests faulty. By a company that can't repair or replace

the ECU is getting power into it as this has been tested via a diagnostics, but there is nothing coming out from the ECU

To interrogate the ECU via diagnostic tools means the ECU has a working processor, clock, memory and so on. A ECU repair company can't fix external driver transistors and the like. They should try component level repairs on an iPhone where everything is 10x smaller and all work is done through a microscope

also, an ECU specialist spent 2hrs on it trying to diagnose the fault, so things like wires and sensors were tested and it was found that the fault was internal and couldn't be repaired and would need to be replaced

Why would you spend two hours checking sensors if the immobiliser light is on. The ECU will not do anything until it receives a valid code

The rev needle didn't bounce, the immobiliser light didn't go out and there was no engine check light

the immobiliser not going out should be a big red flag. Quite a common fault

im sorry, but I dont know what you mean by 'emergency bypass code'

It possible to bypass the immobiliser by manually entering the code via the accelerator pedal.


so let's recap

diagnostics connects to the engine and body computers but an ECU specialist says there no comms. This doesn't make sense. Someone or more must have misdiagnosed
You have been told you can't change the ECU because the old info can not be read. This isnt correct. If blank it just plugs in someone is mis informed
its no unusual to be told rubbish. I asked for some coolant and was told it would corrode a hole through the block because its not pink.


If the thread had started I have dash lights as normal but the immobilisers stays lit it cranks but does not start ? Fairly common

I am sure things would be going in a different direction. However now there's no way of known if any damage has been caused / introduced which is why I don't like looking at repairs that other people have started
 
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