Hi, I have a Ducati 244 (2006) for some reason both cooling fans are running 100% since yeu when I was in a traffic jam
Anyone has an idea how to fix this ?
Anyone has an idea how to fix this ?
Technical DUCATO 2006 both cooling fans on 100%
- Thread starter sliderr
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Technical DUCATO 2006 both cooling fans on 100%
Hi 
Do they Stop when key is removed..?
Do they Stop when key is removed..?
OP
OP
Ah that makes sense because we had a **** load of rain are these the relays your talking about ? They stop running after they key is out of the engine ?
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OP
Yes after 15 seconds or so @Communicator do you know which relay this can be ?Hi
Do they Stop when key is removed..?
Communicator
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I am trying to eat my tea, after changing engine oil in 2,8jtd.
See attachment
See attachment
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@Communicator you are truly the best! - i checked both relais and they look fine and are dry thinking maybe it should be then the engine temp sensor? or should i start by replacing (both?) relais?
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Having had time to consider the problem while eating, I think that the problem may be with the engine temperature sensor for the ECU, or associated wiring.
I have posted the circuit for basic (non aircon) fan control, as it will be easier to follow.
Both fan control relays have a permanent supply from the battery, via fuses F06, and F07.
The relays are controlled via the ECU, in response to the sensor K036.
As @sliderr has reported, the fans remain on for about 15 minutes, after turning of the ignition. This is correct, if the ECU "thinks" that the engine temperature is too high.
If the problem was with water ingress to the engine bay fusebox, B001, causing the relays to stay operated, the the fans would not stop after 15 minutes. They would continue to run.
If anyone thinks that my logic is wrong, please comment.
The 2.8jtd has two temperature sensors, but they are not visible before removing other components. I think that the sensor K036 is a negative teperature coefficient thermistor, but intend to check, and post again.
I have posted the circuit for basic (non aircon) fan control, as it will be easier to follow.
Both fan control relays have a permanent supply from the battery, via fuses F06, and F07.
The relays are controlled via the ECU, in response to the sensor K036.
As @sliderr has reported, the fans remain on for about 15 minutes, after turning of the ignition. This is correct, if the ECU "thinks" that the engine temperature is too high.
If the problem was with water ingress to the engine bay fusebox, B001, causing the relays to stay operated, the the fans would not stop after 15 minutes. They would continue to run.
If anyone thinks that my logic is wrong, please comment.
The 2.8jtd has two temperature sensors, but they are not visible before removing other components. I think that the sensor K036 is a negative teperature coefficient thermistor, but intend to check, and post again.
Communicator
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yes it has (working) airco and only has 60.000 km on the clock, can it hurt much when both fans are on while driving?
Communicator
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Rather large current draw with two fans. Fan control cct is different, with aircon fitted.
Sorry for the delay. I had to undertake taxi duty from our local rail station.
I can confirm K036 is a negative temperature coeficient thermistor. This means that its resistance decreases with increase in temperature. It seems possible that a partial short across the sensor could mimic this effect. Access to the sensors , which are in the same area as the engine thermostat is not easy, but I do have a guide for thermostat access provided by a former? forum member.
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no worries at all! i found a video there are indeed 2 sensors one for the dash and one for the ECU - going to replace that one, here is the link
Thanks again, i will post the outcome.
Thanks again, i will post the outcome.
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Please note that the ECU sensor is the smaller one, that is still shown connected. It has the two connector blades inline.
That is my understanding based of eLearn description of sensor K036.
Sounds fine to me
Still controlled.... running a program
Rather than uncontrolled power to the fans.
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OP
Today after a 250km trip the fan suddenly went back to normal behavior, i let the engine run for a bit and the fan came on and went off - no clue why or what happend.
Good news.. maybe it had dried out from that rainwater
A great video to show where those sensors are loacated. Unfortunately the author's conclusion is badly wrong. There is NO way a head light can change a NTC's resistance. It's obviously a grounding problem. While the ECU measures the K035 resistance via 2 dedicated wires, the speedometer relies on the grounding via chassis to battery to engine to sensor case. If any high current builds up a voltage drop in a weak grounding system this appears at the temp gauge and will be interpreted as low sensor resistance to indicate high temperature. Note that K036 features 2 pins, one each for the resistor and the light.
Replacing the sensor may well have cured the issue, but he might well have reinstalled the original one with teh same success.
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I have not viewed the video. I agree with the above, except that it may not be a simple grounding problem. Sensor K036 has two pins, which are both connected to the ECU. The wire connected to pin 2 is possibly the lower voltage side. A false high reading could be due to leakage between the pins, or from pin 1 to earth.
Sensor K035 is not connected to the ECU. It is used by the instrument panel for the temperature gauge, and over temperature warning light. The eLearn diagram E4010 is nonsensical, unless there is a ground connection between the sensor element, and the thermostatic contact for the warning light.
As above it is K035 that is used by the instrument panel.
In general the x244 does not suffer from as many earthing/chassis connection problems as later models. The cable from the battery negative post descends to the main chassis connection below the battery, and forward of the RH engine mounting. This connection is via a flag terminal crimped around the conductor, and is perhaps the most vulnerable. It has been reported that corrosion can occur inside tha flag terminal crimp. (I have smeared vaseline around the crimp, and between the cleaned, bolted faces.) The same cable continues under the intercooler, and radiator, before terminating on an extended starter motor stud.
