Technical Drive Shaft repair

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Technical Drive Shaft repair

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Jan 19, 2022
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Hi all ! After replacing my front right drive shaft (with ABS) for the second time with a used-part that is worse than the last, I wonder if anyone has done a drive shaft revision ?
A new shaft from AutoDoc has a toothed wheel-side hub. Mine is a smooth hub. The problem is on the transmission side hub ( ticks when accelerating into a right-hand turn ). Any ideas floating around out there in B-land ?
grtz
ER
 
No specific model knowledge, so others on Forum may advise better, however if the only difference is the toothed CV joint for ABS using that type of sensor, I assume your ABS sensor is a later magnetic one in the back of the wheel bearing?
If so and rest of shaft dimensions identical to your old original ones , what is stopping you just knocking off the pressed on toothed ring?
Surely AutoDoc can advise and at least give you the dimensions of their product to see if viable?
 
No specific model knowledge, so others on Forum may advise better, however if the only difference is the toothed CV joint for ABS using that type of sensor, I assume your ABS sensor is a later magnetic one in the back of the wheel bearing?
If so and rest of shaft dimensions identical to your old original ones , what is stopping you just knocking off the pressed on toothed ring?
Surely AutoDoc can advise and at least give you the dimensions of their product to see if viable?
Thanks for your reply Bugsymike. You are right twice here ;) The ABS sensor is behind the wheel-bearing, and all the dimensions of the AutoDoc replacement shaft are identical. I have had it in hand and returned it.
(A good reason to use AutoDoc. If the users or moderator have a problem with my using the company name, let's just give them a nick-name and move on. We all (very many of us) buy our parts there).
The toothed-ring is integrated in the hub cover ( As far as I could determine.)
Since we basically know that the problem is on the transmission-end of the drive-shaft ( ticking and clicking when accelerating into a curve ), I have ordered and will replace the Rzeppa-coupling: Part-number 304313-SET-MS (see attachment) . Interesting link to explain that: https://www.mvwautotechniek.nl/en/drive-shaft/
Maybe not cost effective, but an interesting and not to complicated piece of garage-work.
Thanks all. I'll keep you posted.
grtz
ER
 

Attachments

  • Homokineet.jpg
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Since we basically know that the problem is on the transmission-end of the drive-shaft ( ticking and clicking when accelerating into a curve ), I have ordered and will replace the Rzeppa-coupling: Part-number 304313-SET-MS (see attachment) . Interesting link to explain that: https://www.mvwautotechniek.nl/en/drive-shaft/
Maybe not cost effective, but an interesting and not to complicated piece of garage-work.
Thanks all. I'll keep you posted.
grtz
ER
That inner joint is similar to VW Golf ones and many years ago on a father in laws Granada 2.8 Mk2 rear drive shaft ones.
They clicked but I was able to cure by removing and repacking with CV joint grease.
 
That inner joint is similar to VW Golf ones and many years ago on a father in laws Granada 2.8 Mk2 rear drive shaft ones.
They clicked but I was able to cure by removing and repacking with CV joint grease.
Many years ago, back when front wheel drive was just beginning to be common, I often noticed that failed driveshaft joints - CV (rzeppa) or tripod plunge type - often had significantly hardened grease in them which had obviously not been lubricating the joint as intended because it wasn't flowing around the moving parts. Since that day I've always put about a thimble full of heavy gear oil (SAE 140 or similar, it's not critical) inside the boot with the grease. When you later open one of these up it's full with a semi liquid "gungy" mix of grease which gets "everywhere" Since doing this I've never known a joint to fail due to lack of lubrication. If I'm cleaning out a joint for reuse I will always use a high melting point grease which contains Molybdenum disulphide additive but I'd advise against using this in wheel bearings.
 
I did think this might be a solution. But there was no lack of grease ;). Definite scoring on the inside runners once everything was cleaned-up.
I'll try to keep this documented.
grtz ER
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9557.jpg
    IMG_9557.jpg
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Thanks ! This was seriously well-greased. No visible sign of metal in the grease. Scoring (blacking on high-grade steel) on the inner-runners. It just fell apart in my hands, which I think only happens when it's worn out ?
grtz
ER
 
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