Technical DMF replacement...

[Bergi NZ]

Hi.
I've got a 2015 Panda Twinair Dualogic that's just run 75,000 km and is showing symptoms of DMF failure
I've looked at lots of videos/guides on how to remove the transmission and I'm reasonably mechanically capable.
My question is: is it better to separate the gearbox from the bell housing while the bell housing is still attached to the engine to make it easier to handle/manoeuver? I'll be doing the job on the garage floor with axle stands and I have a dolly I can modify to hold the weight while removing/replacing the transmission.
Sourcing parts from Shop4parts, less than half the price of NZ Fiat supplied parts, and will be here in a week instead of 2 months... that's what happens when you sell Fiats alongside Ferrari's!
Any suggestions gratefully received.

 

[Bergi NZ]

And so it begins....

 

[Eltezz]

Crack on! best of luck with it...

 

[The Panda Nut]

I wouldnt separate bell housing fromthe gearbox. If indeed you can.
Take care with the hydraulics. They may well need bleeeding after. If so only push the pedal halfway down each stroke. My DMF was done a few weeks back and the master cylinder is now playing up. Good luck with this.

 

[Bergi NZ]

Well, DMF and clutch replacement finally completed a couple of weeks ago. Panda now running great again.
Here's a couple of observations for those wanting to tackle the job themselves. I'm also grateful for the axle stands and trolley jack borrowed from my next door neighbor, thanks Pete!
You'll need a 36mm socket to undo the hub nuts. The one I borrowed was 50mm od and wouldn't fit in the hub to grab the nut flats. I purchased my own socket and cut and ground it down to fit correctly. Success! The nuts are single use, order more with the DMF.
I ordered the flywheel/clutch individually, a complete kit wasn't available from Shop4parts at the time. If you do this, you'll probably have to buy the single use flywheel bolts separately. I used a cheapie angle gauge to tighten them.
The YouTube videos I watched showed the mechanic just pulling the transmission off and into his chest while under the car! That would probably kill me so I used ratchet straps around a garage rafter to lower/ raise the transmission. To refit without a struggle, I used a dolly with supports to hold the transmission at the correct height and orientation.
If you're going to replace the driveshaft output seals, do it with the transmission out of the car.... It's a struggle when installed.
The driveshafts can be difficult to remove (sameon most cars) the locating circlip must have its open ends upwards. Of course, you can't see them, so keep rotating the driveshaft small amounts until they just pop out easily. I used a carpenters pry bar. Same to refit.
The top starter bolt is very difficult to access. You'll need a 3/8 wobble connector after the bit for the bolt to make sure the bit engages the bolt head straight on or it will round out! Use the longest 3/8 drive handle you have to apply smooth torque to undo/re tighten. You can just force your extension/wobble drive between the alternator plastic shield and the starter. Tape all the socket pieces together to save a struggle if they drop off behind the starter.
A couple of pictures (I didn't take many)
Note the old DMF is now permanently off center. The plastic center bush has worn away on one side. I suspect that because the DMF is keyed to the crankshaft, the Twinair pulses concentrate the wear in the DMF in the same place all the time. A 4 cylinder engine probably wouldn't. Just my observations, but I strongly suspect this is why Twinair DMF's don't last past around 75000km?
Some pictures:

 

[The Panda Nut]

Thanks for your post. There is a lot of useful information.